goldenpie6 Thats an easy choice. If you have to choose between guitar and singing lessons, take singing lessons. Its much easier to be a self taught guitarist than a self taught singer. Learning how to sing from youtube videos is a gamble at best. Since you have no one to actually check what you are doing, its very easy to pick up bad habits and wrong techniqes, that are gonna be hard to break after a while, and at worst, it can really damage your voice. Breathing excercises should be safe tho, and those can help a lot. Also learning how to breathe from your diaphragm.
Singing is not like guitar, you cant watch someone sing and see what exactly they are doing. You can only go by descriptions and subtle cues in the sound and body language. Thats why a good teacher is really important, he or she can actually notice what it is that you are doing wrong, and find a way to correct it. Youtube cant. And there is also the fact that teaching yourself, if everything goes well, is going to be way harder and longer than getting a teacher. I was a singer in bands for 5 years before i got lessons, and i improved more in 6 months of lessons than i did in the entire 5 years before.
Sure, there are some great singers that never took lessons, like Dio, Bruce Dickinson, Steven Tyler, and so on, but those are really rare. For every one of those prodigies, there are a hundred of singers who managed to fuck up their voices by singing incorrectly. My dad and my aunt both had to have vocal nodule surgery, and i can tell you its no picnic.
Oh, and dont thighten up your vocal cords or throat while you sing, thats just the most horrible advice i have ever seen about singing.
Thats a loaded question, because everyone has different preferences about string gauges. For example, i used 10-52 for drop C and D standard. Nowdays i go with 56-10 if i can find a set. And thats on a 24,75" scale guitar.
dspellman Thats actually the way this guy makes earphones. Takes a mold, and makes them fit your ear perfectly. I think that should solve the bottom end issue as well, since its gonna be really tight and not let the bass escape when the earbuds arent sealing well. But honestly i have issues with the unit as well, since it just doesnt give that good of a sound. I ran some music trough it and its of very noticable worse quality than what went into it. And its also very noisy, and also has random artifacts the whole time.
So i recently started playing in a new band. We pretty much run modelers into a Behringer x18 mixer and into in ears. Its actually a pretty cool setup, however im not really happy with my inear system. I currently have a LG Systems MEI 1000 G2 system and Shure SE215 headphones. I got the setup a few years ago, but i never actually used it outside of a few practices with my old band. Now i did manage to setup a nice patch on my helix that sounds decent trough this, but its still not really ideal. There are sill pops, hums, burps and all manner of sounds from the wireless unit, and im loosing a lot of low end, to the point where i have a +15dB boost on the low end in my Helix, just to make the sound decent in my ears.
So im thinking about an upgrade. I found a local custom inear maker, that comes pretty well recomended. A lot of professionals around here apparently use his earphones, and they are pretty affordable as well.
Im also looking at an upgrade for the system itself. Im looking at the Sennheiser EW 300 system, but i really have no way of testing it, and im not sure if its gonna be that much better. My budget is like 800€ for the system istelf, and the headphones are 350€ itself, so i guess the total budget would be 1200€. Also, should i upgrade the heapdhones first, or the unit? Are there better units for the price as the Sennheiser ew 300?
I owned a korina explorer a few years ago. I got it second hand, but it didnt really look all that banged up and actually was taken care of pretty well. But it was one o the worst guitar i ever owned. The neck was felt awful, it buzzed even after a ton of setup, it had a lot of neckdive (probably because the body is way light), and the weirdest thing was, that the neck was really bendy. I know you can bend all necks if you apply enough force, but with this one you actually had to be careful while playing, because you could accidently bend the whole thing out of tune. It was strange to say the least. I may have gotten a lemon, but it left a sour taste in my mouth.
I have also played one of the 1984 explorers. I think they look better, especially the white one, but honestly, it really didnt do much for me, and it had a pretty thick neck. But all in all it was a way better guitar than the korina that i owned.
Id suggest a Line6 Helix. But lemme break down the kemper first, since i owned it for about a year and played a bunch of gigs with it.
Once its setup it sounds and feels great. I really cant fault it there, the sounds are great once you get a good profile. And thats where things get complicated. Its a nightmare to setup, because of the small screen and really shitty computer software. Navigating on the kemper itself is a bitch, and so is shifting trough literally thousands of profiles, just to find the 3 that you really like. Its just annoying as hell, and by the end, i ended up with subpar patches simply because i just couldnt deal with the 1996 style menus and rotary knobs that feel like they are gonna break of if you look at them wrong. You are also dependant on profile makers, because once a profile is made, you cant really tweak it that much, before it starts sounding weird. So you have to find a profile that is already 99% where you want it and then tweak it minimally. Its not like other modelers, where you have amp models and then you can fuck around with the knobs as much as you like. Yeah, the kemper can do that as well, but it just makes the profile sound strange, in a bad way. That means that you need to go trough A LOT of profiles, and since the software for it is so buggy, its a pretty unplesant experience. I really wouldnt recommend the kemper to anyone, except people with a large colection of their own amps that they want to profile for personal use.
Anyway, after about of year of fuckery with it, I sold it and got the Helix. Its a godsent. Setting up patches is the most simple i have ever seen on a modeler. The way it handles impulse responses is the best i have ever seen, building complex chains is a breeze, and the scribble strips make even the most complicated patches easy to use, since you have everything written down. I think that the sound is on par with the kemper as well. I actually did a blind test where i recorded the same riff with 3 different kemper profiles, and 3 helix patches, and nobody could guess which is which. Also, since its single unit, you dont need to lug around a separate pedalboard for it (unless you get the rack version of course). In a live setting its just as good as the kemper sound wise, and much better than kemper in everything else, because the screens make it so easy to know what you are doing, and the simple user interface actually makes it possible to tweak presets on the fly, instead of battling trough a bunch of monochrome menus on the kemper.
As far as AX8 goes, i have no idea, i never used it. But i very much doubt its better than the helix.
Oh yeah, i used both of them live direct into PA, and just used the venue monitors for stage volume. Thats it, no aditional power amps or whatnot. For practice i actually did use the kemper (i had the powered version) trough a cab, and i use the helix either trough an active speaker or trough inears now.
Well hi gain patches will have a certain ammount of hum in any case. Throw in a noisegate block or something. But honestly, all of this sounds like poor playing and you not really knowing how to setup a patch. Try to find some videos online how to setup patches on the axe.
OiUw0tm8 Go from the output 1 section on the axe to the input A on the speaker. Just plug one end in the output 1 unbalanced left and then plug that same cable into input A on the QSC. Thats it. Since you bought a dual cable for some reason, you can also go from unbalanced righti into input B on the qsc, but that wont do much, since you cant get stereo sound from one speaker. The reason that the cable you bought is a dual one, is to run this kind of equipment in stereo mode, but you need two speakers for that.
Honestly, this isnt that hard, with this kind of equipment you always have to go from the "output" part to the "input" part of the speaker. And you cant really fuck anything up cable wise, because the cable either fits into one of the openings, or it doesnt. If it does, it works, if it doesnt, well, it cant work.
Id say you need 2 midi cables, because the axefx probably also sends midi info to the FCB as well, to control the leds display on it. You then need some sort of cable to go from the axe to the speaker (id suggest XLR, but i think a normal guitar cable will work as well), and a cable to go from guitar to axe. Besides power cables thats pretty much it.
But having spare cables is always a good idea. They arent that expensive, and some of them ARE GOING TO FAIL at one point or another. So you can either get a spare for every cable you have now, or wait until they die. I dont even know how many cables i have a this point, but i know that whenever i had just one of whatever type, it always failed in the worst moment possible.
What you just said is that you didn't have interest in guitar, you had interest in loud noises. Then when that phase passed you, you gained interest in guitar and started actually learning how to play it. That's how I see 100% of the stories. Every beginner I've introduced to guitar always wants to play the electric and they never progress. It's a case of the lack of genuine interest in the instrument.
* if you look at that youtuber Robert Baker, you'll see he said he didn't learn a chord for 3 month, he only wanted to play solos. (I guess he practiced scales? Not knowing that every solo is made of some sort of chords, baha.) that right there is reason number 1 not to get an electric guitar, you will sit there trying to play songs instead of learning fundamentals. Not that you shouldn't play songs as Ast as you can, but that the vast majority of people who start on electric never get past the stage to play a song. I got my electric guitar from my brother, who bought it 4 years ago, "played it" for a week and put it away, until he told me to take it when he noticed I was learning acoustic.
Well aint that quite a statement. In some sort of convoluted way you may be right, I had interest in playing music that i like the most. The acoustic guitar wasnt the right instrument to play the music i liked. Thats why i had more fun with the electric. So no, i didnt really intend to delve into the depths of the guitar and analyze chords to the point of obsession, i just wanted to play music that i like. If you wanna call that "not having an interest in guitar, but rather in loud noises", ok then. Ultimately my approach made me a better guitarist on both kinds of guitar in just a few months, as in before, i spent two years doing nothing.
I have no idea who Robert Baker is, and i honestly dont care. And i have more friends who have acoustics that they abandoned after a few weeks of playing than friends who have electrics and did the same.
Also, you pretty much equated all the geners that use electric guitar to "loud noise". So thats kind of a dick move, dont you think? I wouldnt say that jazz is just playing random notes in random orders, and that folk music is just 3 chords and a redneck mellody, because i know better. So why do you feel the need to demean the entire rock genre and people who like electric guitars?
Your voice actually sounds pretty good! But you really dont have much in the ways of technique, and it sounds like you are really holding back because you dont want to be to loud. I think if you actually sang with some volume, it would sound much better. Seeing as how you are 13 and how you sound, i suspect your voice just broke not long ago, so its pretty much expected that you dont have that much control over it.
What can you do to get better? Get a teacher of course. Thats the easiest way to do it, and seeing as how you are young, its also the safest, since your voice is still young and changing, so it can get messed up if you are using it wrong. My little sister has been taking singing lessons since she was around your age, and it helped her a lot. Just make sure its a good teacher.
The second way is to join a choir! You are (hopefully) still in school, and schools have choirs. I know a lot of singers who were in choirs in elementary and high school, and they really have an edge over me, because not only do they know how to sing, they also have to deal with harmonies, so they are really good at singing with other people. Its also much cheaper than a private teacher, probably even free. The downside is that you dont get to pick the songs. The upside is that you get to hang out with people with similar interests (and most of them are chicks). I think this is actually the best way to learn for someone your age.
All in all i think you sound good, but you do have a lot to learn. And thats ok, since you are very young. So dont get discouraged, singing is fun!
What do you mean "what pedal"? If you mean for the distorted sound, he is probably using some sort of an overdrive pedal into some sort of hi gain amp like the 6505 or Dual Rectifier of one of the Engls. He probably also uses a bit of delay for the lead parts. He could also be using amp sims, but i cant really tell. But he certanly isnt using just one pedal for distiortion trough a clean amp.
From a personal perspective, id say no. I wanted to play guitar, and i loved rock and metal music. I was forced to start an an acoustic, and that pretty much stalled my playing for about 2 years. I only learned a few chords, and then when i tried to learn some songs from bands that i actually like, it just sounded like crap on an acoustic, and that really made it not fun to play. So i pretty much stopped, until after a few years i finally had enough money to buy myself an electric guitar and amp. They were both shitty, but just having a bit of distortion was fun, and i havent stopped playing in over 10 years. Also, when i started getting better on the electric guitar, that also increased my interest in acoustic, and after a few months of having my first electric i actually played more acoustic guitar than i did when i first started out with just acoustic.
Carabiniero8 I went without a hardcase for about 4 years before i got one with a used guitar. I used a softcase for giging for a long time. And at home i just put my guitars on a stand. You can get a stand for like 15$. You really dont need a hardcase at this point. Like somsip said, all you need is a guitar, pick and a tuner. And you can just get a tuner app for your phone at first, or get a cheap clip on tuner. Id really invest the majority of the money into the guitar at this point. And good hardcases are over 100$, so the one that comes with the cheap set is probably pretty bad.
Soxtar I used it for punk and metal. You can get a decent hi gain sound on it out of the lead channel on the hi gain mode. Modern sounds to scooped. Also a speaker swap would probably do wonders for it, since mine still had the blue marvel speaker.
Yes, a scarlett 2i4 (actually probably any of the scarletts will do), connect that sucker to the computer with a usb cable, install the drivers and you are ready to go!
Well not quite. You also need some sort of amp modeling software. Be it one of the comercial ones (BIAS, Amplitube, GuitarRig, Helix Native....) or freeware ones (LePou plugins are great), and a recording program like Reaper, Cubase, Pro Tools, Cacewalk.... I recommend Reaper, because its basicly free (unlimited trial), and very user friendly with tons of tutorials online.
You will still need to figure out how to run all of this together. But it shouldnt be to hard, and its gonna give you a lot of flexibility.
Im gonna go with the Bandit as well. I had one, and it played great with pedal, and the drives were very much usable as well. I giged with it for years, and i never had any sort of issues with it. One time it got soaked by rain for like 30 minutes, and a week later it still worked perfectly. I only sold it last year, and i kinda regret it, because it was the simplest setup i had, and kinda perfect for some drunken jams and family parties.
Well first of all, you are not required to get an acoustic guitar as your first by any means. I was forced to start with an acoustic and i spent two years hating it before i bought myself my first electric guitar. If you want to play an acoustic music, thats cool, and you should get an acoustic, but if your end goal is to play electric guitar, get an electric one. Im just saying that, because a lot of beginners think they have to star on an coustic, and end up hating it.
So, now that this is out of the way, i think that you should get the best guitar possible. A used 50$ guitar doesnt really sound that appealing to me. It probably wasnt cared for very well (could be wrong, but a lot of beginner guitars are), it was probably way cheap when new, and those two things arent a good combination. And since you say you dont need the electric part, i think you should get the best full acoustic you can. Since its an acoustic, id say you shouldnt even go for the bundle. A 155$ guitar, case and strap are not gonna be stellar. If you have a 200$ budget, id suggest spending all of it on a guitar. Yamahas are still a good choice, because they make excelent lower end instruments, but a 100$ guitar still wont be amazing.
You can also check used listings on craigslist that are in your budget. With a bit of luck you can snag a used guitar that was twice the price when it was new, so for 200$ you can get a 400$ guitar, and thats already a decent instrument. And if you decide to sell it, it will probably hold its value way better.
Remember, just because its your first guitar, it doesnt mean it has to suck.
Well then get the JCM800. I think the Ceriatone one in the demo is as spot on as you can get, and you probably get the same ammount of variance between two marshall heads anyway, but whatever. You also dont want copies like the Peavey Windsor or the Ceriatone. So just get a used 800 and thats it.
If your amp has an effects loop, you can even use it to put effects in front and after the loop. You dont have to use amp sims, and you dont have to go straight into the mixer with it.
However if you only want to use effects with your amp, id recommend the HX effects. Its just a tad more expensive, but it has a smaller footprint, and the effects are on another level. And it doesnt have amp modeling, and if you dont need it, i think its better to not have it, because it can just confuse you.
Dude, Maiden used so much different gear for every album and tour that you can pin down a specific amp that will "do maiden". A silver jubilee should work just as well as the JCM800. Maybe even better, with all the more advanced options it has.
I do both. I ran my kemper trough guitar cabs for band practice, into studio monitors at home. At gigs i usually ran it straight to PA and used venue monitors for stage volume, excet a few times where i used an actual cab on stage, bust still went straight to PA from the kemper, so that cab wasnt miced up.
Now i have a helix, and i do pretty much the same, except i use the 4CM with a real amp head for practice, and i jsut go straight for everything else.
You do not need to connect head with cab and you can forget about impedance. OP is comparing a modeller to a combo. I prefer combos for simplicity and to unload my car in 1 trip. A 40W amp is loud enough for small gig to avoid mics completely. For bigger gigs, there is a PA and a person or team to operate it. You have enough level to hear yourself and the rest of the problems are not yours, they are the problem of whoever is hired for the sound.
Only modern pedals work in the loop. Stuff like a phase 90 clips in the loop. So I keep all the pedal before the amp for simplicity, nothing goes in the effects loop. No wah so I do not have to operate anything while playing. I do not use batteries a good power supply like a cioks or voodoo lab covers all the needs with different pedal voltages, they have a wire to cater for all pedals, even positive ground fuzz pedals. There are a few patch cables involved, but if the pedals are on a pedalboard, even a piece of wood, the pedals are pre wired. On gig day all you have to do is plug guitar to pedalboard and pedalboard to amp. If you have a 5 pedal system, which is small and ideal for small gigs, there is no tap dancing involved. You still have to use something on a modeller to switch sounds. 5 pedal system is good as it is light to carry and small, does not take too much floor space if the stage is small.
Well seeing as how he is gonna buy a new amp, lets say he is gonna buy new pedals as well, so they wont clip in the loop. And if he plays metal he sure as hell wont put a delay in front of the amp for leads, because its just gonna sound like muddy farts instead of crisp leads.
So lets say we have a 5 pedal system. A wah, overdrive, eq, reverb and delay. And a combo amp. We need to setup the amp first. Run cables from the pedalboard to the amp, guitar to pedalboard and then another two cables for the loop. Then setup a microphone in front of the amp. We are up to 5 cables. 6 if you count the one for the amp channel switching. Ok, now the rig is setup and we can start the gig.
The gig is going along fine, but now he has to switch from his lead tone straight to his clean tone. He has to turn of the delay, eq and overdrive. Then he has to turn on the reverb and switch the channel. Thats 5 separate switches he has to hit. And then to go from clean to rhythm again, he has to switch channels, turn on overdrive and turn of reverb. Again, 3 separate switches. When the gig is over, that is a significant amount of switching.
Now lets see how I do it. I put a modeler on the floor. Connect one xlr cable into the back to FOH. And i plug the guitar into the front. So thats 2 cables. Then i start playing and for every sound, i need to press exactly one switch. And that switch is labeled, so i cant even get confused. And the whole thing takes up way less floor space than amp+pedalboard, and you dont have the danger of tripping over a microphone. The only downside? You get the sound from the monitors, instead of from the amp. Now i dunno about you, but i play gigs so that people can enjoy them, not so i can hear my amp behind me. If you want to run it into a poweramp and cab, thats 2 more cables. Still less than even the simplest real amp setup.
I was in a band with a guitar player who had a prewired pedalboard and a combo amp. All he had to do was power up the power supply and run the cables back and forth. It took him about 3x as long as me to setup, back when i had a kemper. And with the kemper i had to put down my controller as well. I was already done with my soundcheck by the time he was pluging in his guitar.
I also had an amp+pedalboard setup for years. I had 7 pedals on there, and one of them was a tuner and one was a noise gate that was constantly on. I know exactly how it works, and i know exactly what kind of a workload i had before i switched to modelers for giging. You simply cant compare it. Its just that much easier.
Oh, and lets not forget, 5 measly pedals will set you back about 500€. Or lets say 300€ if you get some nice used ones. A pedalboard is free if you can build it, and the power supply, at least a good one, is another 150€. So thats about 450€ for a full 5 pedal pedalboard AT LEAST. Add that to the cost of the DSL40 to get the real price of his setup. Now im no math wiz, but the LT costs much less than that.
Well what you mentioned is pretty much more complex with all the combinations and then blending than just have a guitar and amp and a couple of pedals. Prepared before on a pedalboard for easy setup.
From the 3 listed options, the first 2 sound like a mic'ed cab. The third will not sound like a guitar amp as a lot of the tone comes from the speaker. The 4th one could work, but it defeats the purpose of having the modeller replace the amp as it would only be like a glorified pedal.
Feel is debatable or a personal matter. But a lot of guitar players play in reaction to what they are hearing. So the amp response is part of the playing experience which should not be so quickly dismissed.
What do you mean the third wont work because of the speaker? Of course it will, its pluged directly into a standard guitar cab with guitar speakers.
And its not complex, its just new, and you need to wrap your head around it first. Its actually no more complex than a regular setup, where you need a guitar amp, and then connect the head with the cab, but you have to be careful to match the impendances! If you dont, it can destroy one or the other. Then you need to mic up the cab and run the mic into a mixer. Then you need pedals! The pedals have to go in front of the amp, and others need to go into the fx loop. Delays, verbs, flangers and phasers go in the loop. Drives, wahs, compressors go in the front. Except not really, you can put modulation pedals in front. Then you need to conect the pedals with patch cables in some sort of logical ways, and be carefull of the order! Oh and you need two aditional long cables to be able to use them on a pedalboard and in the fx loop. THEN you need to either have a power supply and connect each and every pedal to it, or you need a shitton of batteries. Oh, and some pedals have a 14 or 18V power requirement, so you might need aditional supplies for those, and you cant even run those on batteries. And after you set everything up you have to do a little tapdance everytime you want to change your sound. Or you need a switcher or looper or whatever, and connect all the pedals to it, then the switcher to the amp and the fx loop and then program the switcher to do what you want it to do.
You are mentioning a lot of features and specs. It sounds good, but how does it actually perform?
Guitar tone is not just happening in the preamp, but also in the power amp. Having a hifi speaker system to accommodate different profiles is not the same as having an amp and speaker that colours your tone. It may sound close, but it feels different.
I think it preforms well, otherwise i wouldnt be using it. But i think you are not getting my point. There are many ways to use a modeler, and some of them arguably sound the same as if you are using a real amp. Lemme list all the options of how to use the helix for example, but they apply to pretty much any higher end modeler:
-Helix straight into PA: you get the sound of a miced up amp back into your monitors -Helix into a FRFR speaker: you get the sound of a miced up amp back from the speaker -Helix with the cab sim turned off -> neutral power amp -> guitar cab: sounds (arguably) like a normal guitar amp -Helix with only the preamp simulation -> tube power amp -> guitar cab: sounds (arguably) like a normal guitar amp
Im gonna leave the line6 powercab out of this, because most people dont understand what it does, and it will just complicate matters even more.
Now the last two sound pretty much like a regular guitar amp. The "feel" could be debated on for days, since its even more subjective than the sound, but the sound is there. You can also mix and match those 4 options any way you want. You can have the modeler go straight into the PA for the sound, and have a poweramp and cab on stage for your own stage volume. That way you get the real amp feel, as well as not having to mic anything up.
There is simply no way that you can get this level of flexibility with a real amp, without using a bunch of external equipment and having a pretty complicated setup. And since the sound of a good modeler is 98% the same as a real amp, i dont understand why people wouldnt want to use them. Maybe its the "feel", but i can tell you from experience that a Kemper going trough a tubtec poweramp and a 4x12 cab blows you away exactly like a real Engl amp does.
But anyway, since the question here was if OP should get a DSL40 or an Amplifire for metal and home playing, id say neither, go for the Helix LT, because its in the same price range as the DSL40, and it can do just so much more.
That is part of the problem why people who have played a lot of amps may still prefer the amp. In a band scenario the mic lets the guitar shine and get rid of some frequencies that would be covered by other instruments, allowing the guitar to sound better. Sometimes they exaggerate some frequencies to make the guitar pop on top of bass and drums. So a kempler profile would work.
But if you sit in front of the speaker and play a big chord, you expect to get that fullness of a tube amp that is not as full when the sound is captured by a mic, especially SM57 which is one of the best mics for guitars.
I dont think thats really a problem per say, its more about people not understanding exactly how a modeler works, and are then disapointed when they try them. But many people get around this by using stand alone poweramps and real cabs. You can run a helix, axefx or kemper into a separate poweramp with the cab sim turned off, and power a real cab with this. That way you have the sound of a real amp with the flexibility of a modeler. There is even a kemper that has a poweramp built in, so it esentially acts as a normal head.
AND, line6 just came out with the Powercab. Its a powered 1x12 cab that can act either as a normal guitar cab, or as a frfr speaker. And when in cab mode, the speaker can emulate a bunch of different guitar speakers. Its pretty amazing actually, but i dont know how well it works. Its made to work specifically with modelers, because of the problems you described.
diabolical Thats because the Kemper doesnt work that way. It makes a snapshot of a certain amp at certain settings trough a certain cab miced with a certain microphone. Or, if you make a DI profile, at least just a snapshot of a certain amp with certain settings. You cant just load up a random marshall profile and then fiddle with the settings and complain that it doesnt respons exactly like the real amp. Thats NOT what kemper does.
Gab_Azz Well in that case, yeah, a real amp can be a better choice. Altough i would still argue that a modeler + a reasonably priced frfr speaker is just as good in that kind of a situation. Probably even easier to carry around.
Im probably coming off like an amp hater, but i actually use a 5150 with a 2x12 cab for practice and serious recording. I have the helix hooked up to it with the 4cm and use it as a switcher and multifx unit, and the setup is amazing. I actually went back to a real amp setup like this because i wasnt satisfied with the Kemper. But i recognize that the modeling route is simply way more convenient for home playing and giging. I use the helix as a standalone unit at home, and for gigs, and i used the kemper as a standalone unit without any sort of cab or speaker beforehand. And it just... works. It sounds good, or at least 99% as good as a real amp, and in live enviroment you simply cant hear the difference. Sure, in a very specific situation like playing in a coffeshop, it will need additional gear like a frfr speaker, but seeing as how OP plays metal, he probably wont be playing much coffee shops and bars with no PA. And as far as home playing goes, i find it much nicer to use as a real amp, because you can hook it up to any sort of speaker system you have at home, or use headphones without any issues, as well as having all the effects built in, so you dont need to deal with pedals taking up aditional space.
Gab_Azz What do you mean, bars dont have monitors. I have yet to play any sort of venue without monitors, including bars and truck trailers. Maybe the situation is different in the US, but here literally every bar, pub, restaurat, or any sort of venue, has at least one monitor on stage if they have live music. Even the mexican restaurant that has one random guy playing some spanish guitar has a monitor setup for him.
I was gonna praise the Helix as well, but dspellman really hit the nail on the head. I came to it from the Kemper, and its just a massive massive improvement in user experience and flexibility. And with some nice impulse responses you can make it sound amazing. The stock cabs are not bad as well, but they do require more tweaking. AND its also an amazing multifx unit, that you can use with the 4cm with any amp.
Gab_Azz I understand that. But if you cant hear yourself trough the monitors, just have the sound guy turn it up. I have never had an issue with this since i switched to modelers. Turns out that if you dont have loud amps on stage, the monitors can actually do their job because they dont have to fight the backline.
And if you are playing a bar gig where you arent miced up, well, you still have some sort of PA for the vocals right? Just patch the modeler into the pa and there you go. Its really that easy.
Gab_Azz In my last 10 years of giging, i have only played one gig where i wasnt miced up, and that one wasa private kind of party for some friends.. Thats it.
Ive also been using modelers for live playing for the last 2 years, first a kemper, and now i switched to the Helix, and let me tell you, its goddamn awesome. A bad soundguy will fuck up your tone no matter what kind of fancy amp you have, and a good soundguy will love that you dont have unnecesary stage volume, while still giving him good tone.
Bebras Thats not an eq pedal. Its a distortion pedal.
You need something like an mxr 6 or 10 band eq. Put it in the fx loop to boost the mids. Id also get a delay pedal for leads and reverb for clean tones, but i guess you can make do with one or the other for both cases.
EDIT: i just saw that the ironball actually has reverb built in. You can just get a footswitch and toggle the reverb on and off with it.
Id say no for the elevenrack, since its outdated and unsuported tech that wasnt very good to begin with. I havent played the headrush, but judging from all the stuff i read about it id take the Helix over it any day of the week.
And i have. I have a helix. Its great. I suggest the LT if the floor model is to pricey.
Well i think that the answers here are confusing as hell, so ill try to explain a bit better.
You pretty much have 2 options. You can go the traditional Amp way, or you can go the modeling way. Lets discuss amps first.
First of you need an amp head. Once you have that, you plug that amp head into a guitar cabinet, set a microphone in front of the cab, and run the microphone into the mixer. Thats pretty much how it was done since the invention of the electric guitar, and its still the most used setup anywhere. For this type of setup, you can also get a combo amp, that is a head and cab the same box, so you dont have 2 pieces of gear to lug around.
Now if you dont want the amp to make any sound, you can plug the amp head into a loadbox. Its basicly a DI box that emulates the load the speaker puts on the head. You can then go from the loadbox directly into the mixer. But since the speaker and cabinet have a very big impact on sound, you also need some sort of speaker emulation. Some loadboxes have those integrated in them, and some dont. If you have a loadbox that doesnt have integrated speaker emulation, you need to get some sort of speaker/cab emulator, like Mooer Radar for example, and then put that between the loadbox and the mixer.
If the amp head has a line out or a headphone output, then you can run that directly into the mixer as well. Again, if those two outputs have an integrated speaker emulation, thats cool, but if they dont you need a speaker emulator of some sort as well. But, depending on the amp, you might still need to have a loadbox or cab pluged into the speaker outputs. If you run tube amps without a proper load, they can selfdestruct.
DO NOT RUN THE AMPS SPEAKER OUTPUT DIRECRLY INTO THE MIXER! IT WILL DESTROY THE MIXER AND QUITE POSIBLY THE AMP AS WELL!
Ok, now lets talk modelers. Modelers do what the name implies, they model amplifiers, speakers, effects, you name it. You can take basicly any modeler, set up a patch, and plug it directly into the mixer. They have cab simulations already built in, so you dont need any aditional piece of gear to run those. The signal basicly goes guitar - modeler - mixer, and thats it. You just got to set it up, but the actually way that you use it is different from modeler to modeler, since they all have different features.
All of these options have their good and bad sides, so you pretty much have to decide for yourself what you want to do.
Oh, and if you start researching cab simulations, you are sure to stumble across the term IMPULSE RESPONSE. An impulse response is a small file that you can load into an impulse response loader. Those then simulate a cab. So an impulse loader is basicly a cab simulator.