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Quote by Major Bludd
Is there a link or pics, by any chance?

Of what?????
Normally I wouldn't recommend it but on these old Yamahas shaving the bridge is probably the way to go, at least for the short-ish term.
They are great guitars indeed. I got a 1973 myself.

The only issue with them is neck resets are rather difficult on them. So once the neck angle gets too high (which happens when they are this old) their life is kinda limited. Hard to justify a neck reset on such a cheap guitar.
Quote by Ippon


Any new amp builds?

Lots! None for myself though
Looks good

I would have thought the 6PS series of orange drops would have been a closer replacement to the original Sprague orange drops. 715 always sounded harsh to me
Quote by Torn_Asunder
against me!

Came here to say this

Always been a fan of them but after finally seeing them live last week open up for Gaslight Anthem I've been on a binge listening to them. What a live show!
Quote by stepchildusmc
I would venture to guess that the strings were all dead. that's one of the problems I hear about many GC's. they never change the strings on floor models.

This is the reason Taylor ships with Elixirs. Not everyone likes Elixirs though and many find them bright and "tinny"
Quote by Baby Joel
1. Carissa's Wierd (all they're albums are the same greatness, so it doesn't really matter)
2. Iron & Wine (Creek Drank The Cradle album, easily his best)
3. My Bloody Valentine (Loveless)

name: Somnambulant
debut album: A Few Inches Above The Ground

pls don't steal my ideas, thx.


edit: Maybe swap out Iron & Wine for Isis' Oceanic album.

Well done man!

Sam loves Carissa's...I found them through him.


1. Neil Young
2. The National
3. Gaslight Anthem

Kinda boring but three of my top fav artists that came to my head.
6'3"

Being tall is generally great
Quote by beadhangingOne
You think that's bad go talk to Roddick lol.

Have you seen Andy's wife Brooklyn??? Pfff that mad did alright lol


Saw this the other day lol
Poor Andy, he was truly born at the "wrong" time
Squirrels of the south
Cool D-35 esque guitar

Like the toner in the top lacquer for that vintagey look
Custom shop Martin would be my guess

Dallas Green of City and Colour plays a similar Martin which I know for a fact is a custom shop. Dreadnaught slope shoulder body, 12 fret body, slotted headstock, flowerpot inlay, shade top finish
Quote by Bones2
Martin guitars are more durable than a Gibson, but they still are not durable. In all actuality Martins are not durable at all. They can't take a single temperature or humidity change, and they crack easy. So in my honest opinion, the Yamaha is better than the Martin durability wise. Sound wise the Martin is probably much better though. For those prices you could get a nice Ibanez or Ovation, which are so much better than all of those IMO.

You have no idea what your talking about period

Any solid wood guitar is less "durable" than a laminate

Guitars in general are durable instruments, take care of them and treat them right and they will be fine. If humidifying your solid wood acoustic is too much trouble for you, then the laminate Yamaha/Cort is probably your best best.


As a side note, usually the lightest built acoustics usually sound the best. These would be the "less durable" ones. Think wartime Gibsons, prewar Martins, etc.
Used 000-15 or OM equivalent. The 15 series is very nice
Quote by daytripper75

Came here for this
Quote by Rossenrot
I use'ta get high for a living
Believing everything that I saw on my TV

Saw JBT last Thursday, great show!


Myself, electrical engineer at big utility company.
http://home.provide.net/~cfh/gibson.html

Lots to read! Keep in mind the only thing consistent about Gibson's is their inconsistency.
More than likely you have a nut cut with improper string slots. A sharp slot, or an incorrect angled slot will snap strings.
Selling a used LR Baggs Element active pickup system for your acoustic. The pickup system is less than a year old, and on top of that I barely used it.

This pickup system retails for for over $130 USD new, I am selling for $85 USD shipped in NA.

Included is pickup (transducer), volume control, battery pack (and mounting accessories) as well as the active endpin jack.

The LR Baggs Element is a great pickup system but unfortunately I just don't use it. Need to get some money together to buy some textbooks
A well done setup will both improve playability and tone

Next thing I'd try is strings. Try a bunch of different strings and see which set work best with this particular guitar. I have five acoustics and almost all them have different strings, one type does not work for all.

If you're still not happy with the results you can spend a fair bit of money and get a small(ish) gain. Replacing the stock nut, saddle and bridge pins with improved materials will increase sustain, bass response and clarity generally speaking. Bone will be your cheapest option. Bone nut, saddle and bridge pins will run you about $150-200.
Quote by stepchildusmc
beautiful ! that's an incredible guitar ! i had a B25 for a very short time, no way i could get used to the very thin 1 5/8" neck. that LG2 has a much wider neck... i could play that for months on end.

This has a nut width of 1 3/4" and a neck carve/profile like a baseball bat. The neck is seriously huge.

I know what you mean on that B-25. Those 60's necks were ridiculously small.
New guitar day, with 'new' being a seventy year old Gibson "Banner" LG-2 (1943)

I actually got this guitar back in late July. I had been causally looking for an LG-2 for a while. I got it on a whim, offered a price I thought was too low for the guitar and ended up getting it.

Like many old guitars the neck angle had worked its way up over time. As a result a neck reset was needed. I dropped it off to my luither friend for a neck reset and replacing the tuners (stock ones were shot and the buttons had disintegrated). While doing the work addressed some other issues and made some improvements. He planed and refretted the neck, replaced the bridge plate, made a new saddle, added new un-slotted bridge bins and did some minor touch up work to make it look all pretty.

Sounds like a lot but it's all fairly standard stuff for a vintage acoustic instrument. Anyways here is some pics...










The guitar plays incredibly well now, couldn't be happier. Being an all mahogany body the guitar has a great woody tone with a great balanced tone. The guitar is surprisingly loud for a small bodied guitar, really projects and cuts well. The neck is absolutely giant (think baseball bat) which is one reason I love Banner Gibsons.

If you want a super interesting read on Gibson acoustic guitars and the incredibe women who built the "Banner" Gibsons while the men were off at WWII I highly recommend John Thomas' "Kalamazoo Gals". http://www.amazon.ca/Kalamazoo-Gals-Extraordinary-Gibsons-Guitars/dp/0983082782
Only 3 exams this semester

Final year or electrical engineering!
Regluing a loose brace is a simple and fairly cheap task.

If you also cracked the side wood and that needs regluing too your looking at a bit more extensive repair and money. Lucky for you the D-15M does not have any finish on the sides really so you won't need a finish touch up too.
Cool idea

I think there is a couple pedal modding companies who make these PCBs too. So they too can swap the cheap SIL ICs for a nicer DIP equivalent.
Could also be a late LG-2
Hard to tell, need better pics
Quote by mack92
right..but he was pretty insistent on not doing the neck reset as he said the guitar would not sound the same. it's a 70's D-18..so I didn't want to risk anything.

how much do you think a neck reset would cost if I didn't have any other problems with the guitar?

That's totally wrong

Find a new shop
You need a neck reset plain and simple. If you don't know what a neck reset is do a quick Google search.

Shaving the bridge is a cheaters way of trying to avoid a neck reset. Instead of shaving the bridge you could have put the money towards a neck reset (the proper repair). With a neck reset the guitar will play like it is brand new again with perfect action.

The nut is most definatley not the issue. Once a nut is cut and slotted correctly it does not need to be changed.


Action is primarily set by the bridge NOT by the nut of neck relief (truss rod).
Picked up this fine guitar last night in a trade. Traded my Taylor GA-4 which I never really played as much as I thought I would and a little cash for this 2013 J-35.

The J-35 is a great guitar, definitely lives up to the hype. This particular one is nicer playing and sounding than the few others I've tried locally. On that note I love the neck on this guitar, nice and chunky without being too big.

The guitar has a great dynamic range. Sounds really nice when played soft but responds equally as well when dug in and strummed. Personally I think it sounds better with a light touch and fingerpicking than strummed...


The original owner bought it in June while the S/N dates it to being made Feb 14th (with love!!! [wub] ). Does anyone know when these J-35's started being made? From my research this is the earliest one I can find.

Anyways another happy J-35 owner. Great value for your money.

Going to do some A/B test with the J-35 vs J-45 TV this weekend, see how they compare. Looking forward to having my LG-2 back from the shop so I can compare a legit banner against the two reissue banners.
(on that note I do wish Gibson didn't put the banner on this J-35 and kept it period accurate).






Quote by Roc8995
Varitones typically have 10M resistors, as opposed to the 250K or 500K pot you usually have for the tone control. So saying you have a .33 is apples and oranges, and if you don't specify that you're using a Varitone it's junk information, just misleading. A .33 on a Varitone works fine, on a tone pot it would probably be too muddy.

Those 10M resistors are just to bleed off charge held up the caps, anti poping resistors.

No affect on tone.
Very cool
Would love to see some build pics
Old "Red Label" made in Japan Yamaha's. FG-180 and FG-500 are good ones.

I'm trying to my 1971 FG-180 right now.
That will work. Do a search, this has been done before many times.

Regardless of the bias method your amp will be class AB.

It's a subtle switch. Expect a bit more compression and squish when in cathode bias, but more open sounding with less grit in fixed bias mode.