So there is nothing I can do in terms of the tone?

I use a Jackson RR24 > Digitech Drop Pedal > Scarlett 2i2 > REAPER (with STL Tone Howard Benson Plugin).

Everything works great however if I enable the pedal and drop the pitch (tuning) the tone is really bad. It sounds as if I have turned the volume knob down on the guitar and isn't as bright.

Does anyone have any tips on what I should tweak in the tone to fix it if I start dropping tuning's using the pedal?

2i2 came and with my balanced trs cables no interferance from the speakers

I can only assume the RCA ports on the solo because unbalanced caused the issue but I would recommend just spending the extra for a 2i2 instead of buying isolators and different cables.
Touch wood I dont get these issues If I do then it will also be getting returned lol.

I have finally decided to stick the PODxt Live in the loft (has served me well..)

Is BIAS FX 2 the best software to get for amp tones? I will mainly just be playing along, not hard recording.
Haha, I have heard a lot of good things about Scarlett tho, and they seem to be popular.

I decided to return the Scarlett solo and get the Scarlett 2i2... I will test this with my original balanced TRS and if no buzzing then happy days.. If it still buzzes I will consider Scarlett bad and buy another brand lol.

The price for the solo plus cabling and ground loop isolator is about the same as the 2i2 (if my original balanced cables dont have any buzzing noise)...
I ended up purchasing a Scarlett Solo.

I connected my Scarlett via RCA to XLR cables but was getting a horrible buzzing noise on idle from speakers.

As it doesn't have TRS on the back I couldn't test my original cables to see if it was cabling that was the issue.

I ended up purchasing a set of RCA to TRS cables and a Ground Loop Isolator (£5) from Amazon.

My finding where like this:

 Stagg XLR to RCA cables = static buzzing noise on idle
Hosa TRS to RCA cables = static buzzing noise on idle
Stagg XLR to RCA with Ground Loop device = static buzzing noise on idle
Hosa TRS to RCA cables with Group Loop device = NO BUZZING!

I am severly confused as to how this is being caused.

I am still convinced because my Behringer w/ TRS to TRS cables worked fine with no buzzing that if I use the Scarlett Solo because it uses RCA ports I need the ground loop isolator device?

.. but if that was the case why is it still buzzing with isolator using XLR cables...


Positive side though is with the Scarlett drivers I can use BIAS FX2 and Youtube/iTunes at the same time
I did try installing the BEHRINGER WDM driver after reading another post which seems to have it working but I have noticed the audio crashes every now and again.

I use a Behringer UMC22 USB Audio Interface which uses the ASIO4ALL driver.

When I install BIAS FX and change audio settings to DirectSound I can hear the guitar but there is a noticeable lag input. I was told to change it to ASIO4ALL but I don't get any sound using it this way.

I followed a setup video for Scarlett Solo assuming they work the same way but no luck.

This is how I have it connected:

Guitar >> IN PORT on Digitech Drop Pedal
OUT PORT on Digitech Drop Pedal >> Mic/Instrument 1 on UMC22 A/I
Left and Right Outputs on UMC22 >> Yamaha HS5 (Left and Right monitors)

Can anyone help me set this interface us correctly for guitar playback or do I need to buy a Scarlett instead?

Ok I worked out that its not a POWER on/off switch, its a momentum button lol.

But I still have the repeating sound that doesn't match my tone..

Its like one part wants to play the drop sound and the other doesnt.

Just purchased a digitech drop to stop me screwing around with tunings all the time lol.

This is my setup:


Where should I plug the Drop in this chain? Anywhere I seem to put it the pedal wont work unless I hold down the TRUE BYPASS button.

Also when I use truebypass I hear my playing being duplicated 1sec after I play, but is that because I have it set up wrong? Its not lag it plays what I want straight away, it just repeats it shortly after.

After taking it all apart again I managed to get it working.

The only explanation I could really think of was the 3 pin connector under the EMG was slightly out and after reconnecting it seems to be working again.

Sorry for pointless post, might help someone else with similar issue.

No problem, are these any good?

I have pulled everything in these two sections and both seem like they have tight connections, so unless I have something wired wrong (but I only done the 9V and I even tried soldering it both ways)

What I did notice is if I put the 1/4 jack in only touching i get some sort of signal, but if the whole way it just goes quiet.

I noticed when I was putting a 9V battery sometimes into my Jackson RR24 it would need a bit of movement to work. I decided to take the 9V block out and the black and red wire's were no longer attached the block. I soldered them back on (RED = (+) and BLACK (-).

However when I connect the guitar back up I get the original static that the jack has connected to the guitar, but I get no tone or sound from it. It also won't register me tuning it on my PODxt LIVE.

I put the 9V battery into another guitar to test if that had been drained but it was working fine.

Does anyone have any help on what I might have done, I don't see any noticeable wiring loose.

I phoned about it and I am out of warranty

So if anyone knows how I can fix this please let me know

The other week I noticed a problem with one of my KRK Rokit RP5 speakers. Basically I have it plugged into my Line 6 PODxt Live and when I turn it on without any audio playing it makes this horrible loud popping noise and the speaker parts moves in and out constantly after about 5 seconds.

My other Rokit is working fine and ive tried swapping the cables between them and tried moving my left channel one to the right etc and it seems to still be a problem with the speak itself.

Any ideas how to fix it? Im out of warranty (2 years old).

I think earlier I just snapped literally lol :laugh:

I supose all I can try is blocking the bridge level, putting strings on, putting to Drop D, if it raises the bridge should I add/remove a spring or play with the screws at back?
So when I get the strings I should stick something like a 9V battery or spoon to make the bridge level, then just put strings on and tune them to Drop D... and if the bridge stats raising again, then I need to go to the back of the guitar, turn the screws clockwize a couple of turns each screw, then turn it back round and tune again?
Quote by fmonzo27
buy heavier strings? obvious answer if mediums dont work go to heavies if they keep breaking get extra heavy unless your not man enough

I have "Not Even Slinkys" on my Schecter for Drop B so dont try the kiddo attitude, doesn't suit you m8.

And on top of that, can you even tune a guitar using 11's to Drop D / Standard?

I'm sorry im having to ask a newbish question, but ive already snapped two sets of strings today and im losing my f**king mind!!

I have ordered a new set of strings (Ernie Ball Skinny Top Heavy Bottom 10s) and I have my Jackson RR24 guitar all cleaned and ready to go.

What I need help with is:

1) What position should I start the back of the guitar screws at for tuning to Drop D
2) How many strings should I have in it for Drop D / Standard?
3) Where can I get a tutorial/vid that shows me how to string it up properly with no floating etc that doesnt require you to take 1 string off at a time as ive already ripped them all off?

All help is greatly appreciated,

I just want to make sure when I get the 3RD! set I will set this guitar up perfectly to Drop D / Standard and have the setup of it all correct.


Not Even Slinkys are 12's and Skinny Tops are 10s..

I remember having a similar problem before but it fixed itself somehow.

Should I detune till the tremolo is straight, then stick something in the back to stop it moving, then tune?

I had a set of Not Even Slinkys on my guitar and tuned it between Drop C/B and it was fine.

I wanted to go to Drop D / Standard so I bought a pair of Skinny Top Heavy Bottoms.

Ive now got the strings on but when I try to tune it to Drop D the tremolo is very high up.

I have tried turning the screws in the back of the guitar to the point where they cant screw further/higher up and have even put in 4 springs to try and bring the bridge down but it doesnt seem to be working.

Does anyone know what I can do, im now sitting with it barely staying in Drop D as its going to tight, the gap on the fretboard between strings is alot higher, and the floyd rose tremolo is really high up with the action screwed as far as it can go.

All help is appreciated,



On my Jackson RR24 FR guitar, I have it tuned to Drop C with EB 11s.

At the top of the fret if I play 1,2,3 etc it plays but you hear it as if its banging off of the metal strips but its fine everywhere else on the guitar, if I raise the bridge to get it a little higher so it doesnt make that noise it makes all the frets near the bottom far too high to play.

I can also get the harmonics pretty easy near the top of the guitar but not the bottom.

Can anyone give me any tips or advice on how I can properly balance the guitar so I can get all things top to bottom nice and clean?

I added some LOCTITE SuperGlue and its fixed

Heres some pics:

Not the nicest of finishes but like I said the thing is broken in so many places that it makes it look vintage lol.

Sounds fine also, happy to have it back, at least till I get a new guitar, now I can play in my two tunings again

Thanks to everyone for your help,

It was just coming off with a little force so I used LOCTITE Super Glue on top of that stuff and the thing feels pretty rock solid so far

Ill put the strings on tomorrow morning and see how it goes, hopefully it will still sound normal and wont break but as I say, its not breaking in my hands which is a good thing
I left it for a few hours there and it felt nice and stiff but I decided to put a bit of power on it and I ended up breaking it back off lol.

Is that ok as I did try to break it again or is that equal to spring tention on it and will break again...

AKA, was that NoNails Wood Adhesive the right stuff I could use or should I just buy the Titebond stuff online? Just dont want to buy it if its the same as what I just got *UK Version*
Ok I got some "NoMoreNails Wood Adhesive EXPRESS" and a clamp, got it all together and letting it dry.

Although it says on the back 5mins, how long should I leave it before attempting to put strings on??
Thanks for all the help guys,

Ill go to B&Q tomorrow and get some sort of wood glue to try, if it fails or breaks ill order the Titebond online.

I'll post back and let you know all how I got on
The wood had no splinters, I can put it in pretty decent just now but it obviously wont stay till its glued.

I was going to fill in alot of the dents etc but the pattern on mine is the kind of red tiger, so I can paint it lolol.. Unless I painted it all black or something.

I was also on B&Qs site looking at glue... is NoMoreNails Wood Glue decent?
So when I go in tomorrow ill just ask for the strongest wood glue? Or is it epoxy?

I dont really mind about appearance to be honest, the things got so much wrong lol.. Badly wired EMGs, alot of bangs and dents, the tones knobs are missing lol.

At least if I can get it playing, I can just say its very vintage lol
I live in the UK and I have a local B&Q store, but what type of glue should I ask for ??

And I take it I just glue and sit it to the best I can, then clamp it and hold for a day or so to dry?
Thanks for the assistance, heres 2 pics I have:

If I was to re-glue it, would you sand away all the jagged edges so your glueing it onto a flat piece or do I just try and join it back the best I could??
I dont mind "re-setting up" but aslong as I keep the same strings on.

What would I just do then, I mean if im on drop C and I tighten the strings the bridge will float correct??

So do I just take 1 spring away and retune or??

Also is the De-tuner a software or a pedal?

Unfortunatly at xmas my Schecter guitar fell over and hit the floor.... and the head snapped clean off

Is it possible to repair this or is it screwed all together?

The woodwork itself is 1 piece of wood, the neck and body are the same piece.



I had a set of .11s in my Jackson RR24 and had 4 springs in the back. I played in Drop C which worked perfectly, but when I wanted to go to Drop D the bridge was floating like mad and I had no real way to sort it.

Im getting a new set of strings tomorrow and I just need to know some advise:

1) Can I still get 11s or should I go down to 10s??
2) If I want to go between Drop C and Drop D without an amazing amount of effort how many springs should be the back of the guitar??

Thanks and all help is appreciated,


Thanks m8


Bite me dickhead!


My bad type, 6 string CGCFAD

I have my guitar tuned to Drop C as I use that for most songs, sometimes if its D Standard well I know that the first string I just hold 2 frets higher to get the D note so thats fine.

But recently theres a few songs I like in Drop B ()

Now ive worked out that if it wants a 4 say I play one note down on each string which is fine I think ??? so far.... but what if its a open note???

When I transposed in GuitarPro it said an open note turns out to be:


When I play that is does sound sort of right but im just wondering if this is all correct? Am I understanding it correctly or can someone explain it better.


I was just wondering, on the back of the KRK RP5 G2 active monitors to get a balanced sound you can connect it via XLR or TRS (jack).

What is the best to buy or the differences between the two?


I was just wondering, on my Jackson RR24 I have a FR tremolo and under it there was a thin black foam to stop the screws hitting the woodwork but unfortunatly its got a little scraped etc, can you buy this foam stuff from a spares shop or not?

Cool its just that before I remember buying a cable that never worked in my Schecter but worked in my old Ibanez RG321MH and I was told it was because its a stereo cable.

Is it worth look at I have in it just now as my Schecter came with stock pickups and I put the EMGs in?