1. Probably can just remove the speakers.

2. You could make one out of metal, if you want. Lots of electronics suppliers have project boxes.

Can you post some pictures?
Haha, yeah, I know... been there. Anchoring it to the concrete wall should suffice Gotta make some labels one of these days, too.
If you twist the wires together, and wrap them with tape, they'll work fine for awhile. Eventually, the copper will oxidize and create a progressively worse connection. Wire nuts would probably work better for longer, but soldering is your best bet.
I use a tackle box for some of my tools as well ;D Good for grab 'n go.

Just got a new parts cab to fill.
The one with six is stereo, the one with four is mono. Doesn't really matter for your application. I can't tell by the picture; what kind of jack do you have? You want a jack that closes when plugged in. All the jacks I have of that type open when plugged in.
Cool component mods. Replace the messed-up traces with wires, no big deal. Your new output jack is off-center, though, tisk! Measure next time!
Looks like the Avenger is a stripped-down version of the SLO-100.

There's a schematic of the SLO-100 here:
Awesome idea! I would paint the headstock to match. Also, it might look cool with a crack or two in the body. I have no idea how to accomplish that, though.
Connect the sleeves together. Connect the tips to the switch. Done.
I made an electronics cavity cover to match the tremolo cavity cover. Not perfect, but hey, I am human.

Bah, drywall screws will work perfectly, especially if the baffle is plywood. You'll only have to worry about pulling loose if using MDF.
Brackets? Usually, the speakers are just screwed to the back of the baffle using their mounting holes.
Connect the primary of the power supply in parallel with the primary of your amp's power transformer. Or, you could find a 6V fan and use the heater circuit to power it. A 12V fan would probably spin on 6.3V. Might inject some noise, though.

Your best bet, since you aren't familiar with electronics, would be to find someone who is willing to help you, or just blow a regular old house fan on it.
On your transformer, use the black wire for ground, and connect each red wire to it's own rectifier diode (1N4001 or equiv.) to the anode (no bar) side. Connect the cathode ends of the diodes together, which will provide you with a full-wave rectified 15V at .5A. 1/2 amp should be enough for what you want to do.

Use an LM7812 regulator. Follow this schematic, but substitute the LM7812 pinout, and omit the 10uF and resistors. Make sure the voltage of the capacitors is higher than 16V as well, probably around 25V. You probably want to heat sink the regulator, also.

Maybe try a little power supply like this:

Run it to a 12V fan through a rheostat.
I've been interested in electricity since like first grade. Growing up, I had relatives who gave me old radios and tv's to putter with. In eighth grade, I got into ham radio, and met electronics geek adults who helped me out as well. Otherwise, I mowed lawns, had a paper route, did odd jobs for people, and got a job at fleet farm.

But maybe if you make some adult friends who are into the same kinds of things, they might help you out. People tend to be altruistic like that
Yeah, why's everything always so funny? It's like a Japanese game show or something.

If you have wood working skills and tools, I'd opt for finely finished wood.
I don't care for that tone too much. Kinda thin and fuzzy.
Could probably make it less muddy if you lower the value of the coupling caps. Sound feasible?
Yeah, Jim. Where's the Youtube video, hmmm?
I think I understand. Wire your bass blocker caps to the + terminal of your 6X9 speakers. If you wire the sub amp inputs to the speakers BEFORE the cap, the entire signal will go to the amp, not just the treble. Make sense?
No, you won't be able to wire it for 4 ohms, unless the speakers are dual coil, which most guitar speakers are not. Most likely your speakers are 8 ohms each, wired two in series, then both pairs in parallel, giving you 8 ohms.
Hey, someone, have you ever heard of anyone experimenting with using armalloy or armco cores, or comparing alnico pole pieces to neodymium, etc?
If you use shorting jacks, you won't have to connect the send and return together if you aren't using the loop.

Any competent technician will be able to add an effects loop to any amplifier. The cost will reflect the time required and complexity. There shouldn't be a huge difference among amps, though.
^Yes, you are 25 watt speakers will match the rated power of the amp, but more than 25 watt will give you added cushion. I'd go with 25 watt, unless you drive your amp at maximum often. The speakers are probably of similar sensitivity, anyway, so loudness shouldn't be an issue.
Probably damaged the preamp stage of your Peavey amp.
That neck looks warped to me. Try loosening the truss rod slightly to give it a bit of forward bow.
Can you post a pic? Sounds like it needs a truss rod adjustment.
Good idea, TRH, I hadn't thought about it, but you're right, it would look better with a matching electronics plate!

A good project for the next Saturday I have to work!
I just wanted to show you guys what I made yesterday.

I bought a Tremol-no for the Damien FR I just got, because I wanted to be able to do double-stops and increase the sustain, but retain the FR without much trouble. The Tremol-no works pretty well, but I didn't like keeping the cavity open.

I thought of modifying the stock plate, but decided to make a new one. I thought of using polycarbonate at first, but poked around the junk bins at my work and found a nice piece of .0625" thick stainless. It's a few thousandths thinner than the stock plate, but I can always shim it.

So I traced the original plate profile onto the piece of stainless, and cut it out roughly with the band saw. I regret not taking pics of the process, but it was at my workplace, and I didn't feel like taking the trouble.

I threw it on a mill and got it squared-up, then milled the sides down to match the overall size of the original plate. Once that was done, I measured and traced the opening size that I eyeballed on the guitar, and threw it back on the mill. I originally planned on using a 1" diameter end mill, but that's a lot of stainless to cut at once, so I started with 1/4" instead, and ended up just finishing with it. I think a rounded rectangle matches the overall shape better than a slot with rounded ends would, yeah?

With that done, I again lined up the original plate with the new, and traced the rounded corners and hole locations. I shaved down the fillets using the belt sander (bye eye, again), and drilled and counter-sunk the holes. All the measuring and cutting took me about an hour.

I spent about another hour with a hand deburring tool, the deburring wheel, and the polishing wheel to get it to look somewhat respectable. There are a few surface dings that I didn't bother to remove, and left the finish basically brushed more than polished. I did spend a few minutes on the front side with the polishing wheel and some fine medium.

After cleaning it good with alcohol, I gave the front side two coats of laquer. It would have been nice to actually polish the stainless to a mirror finish, but I lacked the time and motivation.

So here's how it turned out. Not perfect, but good enough for me!

The highest value power resistor I have is 6K 20 watts, if you want that. One of my co-workers, I'm sure, would have higher values in that power area.
That's a ground symbol. It means that every point that's connected to that symbol gets connected to the lowest potential in the circuit. In the case of guitars, that would be the sleeve (outside ring) of the guitar jack.
Something on the order of this?

You're right, that will take awhile to discharge those caps:

A 10K probably would be fine. I'll look around and see what I have, Kurt, and let you know.

The center lug is usually used for a common ground point, I think.

Edit: 500 volts through 10K will be 25 watts, but keep in mind that after a few seconds, the voltage will be much lower. I don't see a need for any bigger than a 10 watt resistor.
Are you sure there isn't a dead spot down near 1? The only thing that comes to mind is that the carbon is worn away, or has been damaged down there. Since you haven't found anything mechanically wrong, you're probably going to have to replace it ;-/