Question 1... It depends on the complexity of the circuit, the components used, the quality of the components and circuit board, your understanding of the circuit... etc. Short answer, it can be anything from very simple and intuitive, to complex and mind boggling.
Question 2... Maybe. I know that's ambiguous, but it's hard to say. Understanding programming requires logic, as does understanding circuits. I would say that since you are a maintenance tech, and if you understand the workings of electricity and components, you would do just fine.
1. Sorry, I haven't had the pleasure of auditioning any of these speakers, so I have no answer for you.
2. The cab will sound different than if filled with 4 speakers, but I don't think it would sound like sh!t. It wouldn't be up to snuff, though.
3. That depends on the speaker impedance and your amp's output impedance capability. If you get speakers that have the same impedance, if you connect them in series, it doubles the impedance the amp sees. If you connect them in parallel, it cuts the impedance in half. Be sure to connect the correct impedance to the output of your amp.
I've actually experimented with that configuration. Not the exact tube types, but I used preamp tubes running into a very low-power tube section, class A. The secondary of the output transformer was connected directly to the input of a class D amp. It sounded good, but not that great. I could achieve decent clean and over driven sounds, but it lacked the depth and harmonic nuances that a regular tube configuration provides.
I played around with resistor and capacitor values as well as using the different output impedance taps with the class D amp. Nothing I came across ever produced "the tone."
I'm definitely done experimenting, but it's been awhile since I've meddled with it.
Losenger the tubes were in a radio station on the 23rd floor of the UNI i was studying at in Sydney. I worked there (no pay) as experiance then worked there for a couple of years (paid). The tubes stood just past my knee & approx 2'diameter think from memory they were 1KW & it had 4 in the output stage in pairs, push pull, I dont think they even use push pull output in radio now. The amazing thing was that when you walked past the tiny little room where the tubes were (working in situ) your hair would be drawn up allmost parallel to the ground. & my hair is LONG LOL
Coax is mainly used for RF signals, cable TV, video signals, broadband internet, etc. The type makes a difference when selecting it to be used with certain frequencies because if the capacitance and impedance. I don't think it makes much of a difference for audio, but maybe someone else knows more about that.
I haven't experimented with too many different types, so I can't tell you if the different kinds sound any different. All I know is, it reduces induced noise considerably.
Coax is nice because when you ground ONE END of the shield and leave the other end unconnected, it bleeds away any noise that could be induced by other parts of the amp before it can induce it in the center conductor. I find it works well in the preamp section, especially connecting the input jack(s) and pots.
I got the idea from reading amp building sites and the fact that I've worked on old amplifiers that use it for this purpose.
Edit: You can also use the shield to connect pots and jacks to ground, just as long as only one end actually gets connected to your star or bus ground point. Ground loops suck!
Sure, you can do a neat job with stranded wire, but solid will stay exactly where you put it (maybe it's not exactly necessary, but it sure looks nice).
That IS a pretty picture! If we spent that much time with our builds at work, it would take us twice as long to get anything done! Don't get me wrong, we're neat, but that is immaculate.
Solid wires will bend and stay more easily, but they're more prone to breakage. But then again, once set, if you aren't moving the wires around all the time, it shouldn't matter. I guess it just comes down to personal preference.
Hey, look, cable ties in the lower right-hand corner. You can make perfect 90 degree bends with stranded wire as well. If you take your time, you can achieve a neat an professional job every time with stranded or solid wire.
Precious jewels, gold, silver, platinum, or ruthenium flakes, microchips, beer-bottle caps, life-savers(candies), actual shards of glass that cut you when you play that fret, LEDs, Guitar Hero controller buttons, NES controller buttons, razor blades, nipples and/or boobie profiles, actual clear-coated pictures of vaginas and/or penises, whatever gets you off, different color wood/materials, a binary byte coded for designated fret, actual blood, caduceus(s), chili peppers, flames, brains, fangs, flies, mosquitoes, kitties, bunnies, someone getting stabbed in the head with a 7" stainless serrated blade.
No offense, but don't you guys believe in cable ties? I think stranded wire is fine, but to each his own.
And before you build your Deluxe, maybe use the Champ as a foundation to build upon. You know, build it, get it to work, use it for a bit, then add something else or modify it again. Use it as a learning tool so when you build the Deluxe, it'll work great from the first time you flip the switch.
Yes. If you connect two equal impedance, equal wattage loads in parallel, the overall impedance (ohms) will be cut in half, and the overall power handling capability will double.
Think of it this way. If you have only one cabinet connected, that's only one path for current flow. Adding another cabinet in tandem adds another path for current. If you add another path for current, that means more current can flow, right? Well, that turns into decreased resistance, as resistance is opposition to the flow of current.
And because the amount of total power a circuit can handle is directly related to current, if you add another path for current, you'll also increase the amount of power a circuit can handle.
If channel B works fine, but channel A doesn't, I would start with the channel A tube(s). It's hard for me to say without taking some measurements. It could be as easy as replacing a preamp tube, or a bit more complex if troubleshooting and replacing flaky components.
^ That's basically a fixed hum-adjust, cool idea. Here's a little trick to have perfectly twisted wire:
Cut a piece of wire several feet long. Cut another piece the same length. Clamp one end of each wire next to each other in a vice. Pull the wires straight, and make sure they're an even length. Use a keyless-chuck drill (easier), and stick the free ends of the wires into the chuck, clamping down tightly. Once they're tight, run the drill for a few seconds, or until you achieve the twist tightness you want. Unclamp both ends, and now you have a perfectly uniform twisted pair, which will be the envy of amp builders everywhere.
Oh, no, the volume matters. If it's too big, the resonant frequency will be too low. If it's too small, it'll be too high. Think about it. You don't want to put a 10" speaker in a 4x12 cab, nor do you want to place a 15" speaker in a cab designed for an 8" speaker (if you could fit it.)
I don't think it's because of your choice of output tube. Sounds like there's more damage inside. That's weird that the power light doesn't light up, but the amp still works. You should take it to a tech before a fire ensues!
It'll be a few ohms less, though, shinedown98, if you measure it with a multi-meter. An 8 ohm speaker will read about 5 or 6, 16 ohms would read about 12 or 14. It's because a multimeter reads only with direct current. An impedance rating deals with alternating current and reactance. Either way, you don't want to connect a single 8 ohm speaker to a bridged output that is meant to power 16 ohms.
i heard before that u dont want foam in a guitar cabinet, read that somewhere a while ago, and i think it had something to do with the wood of the cabinet helps shape the tone, and the foam messes with it...cant remember was a while ago, and as far the foam helping make a box seem bigger, that doesnt apply to guitar cabinets, the box volume for guitar speakers is of no consequence, they dont rely on box volume to help "cushion" the speaker, car audio speakers need that because of hard hits and lots of cone excursion inward, the air volume in the box gets compressed and cushions the speaker so it doesnt bottom out and destruct....so dont worry bout the foam for box volume. I guess try it with foam in, and if its easy to take out try with it out. i know there is a good article on that somewhere, might be able to find it. The foam might have been BECAUSE it was for a bass, maybe help clean up some of those LOW frequencies, which can sometimes get a lil muddy. For a guitar tho i dont think u need it, and may not want it.
I agree, and should have probably added that. You really want guitar cabs to resonate. They are part of the instrument and overall sound. That's probably the main reason his MDF cab sounds like crap... it doesn't resonate well. Plywood will do a whole lot better, and will resonate better without damping material. I was just suggesting to experiment because he might like the sound of one layer of foam on the bottom... never know.
And I think the damping material doesn't affect the excursion of a speaker, it helps keep it from being boomy, meaning the cabinet reproduces certain frequencies more efficiently than others. It seems to me you are thinking of ported vs. sealed. In a sub or full range set-up, that is desirable. In a guitar cab, you want the cabinet to compliment the speaker.
ok..thanks..and once i opend th epedals i wanted to mess with they both wouldnt let me look at the circuits....they were like stuck so i couldnt get to it..and i didnt want to force it....so is every pedal like this..and what is the trick for getting to the circuit?
I'm talking about uncharged ones, and I felt like it wouldn't work. And anyways, it was just a crazy idea that occurred to me and I figured I'd throw it out there. Oh well...
Connect a discharged battery in parallel with your guitar signal, and your signal will try to charge the battery. I'd be surprised if much of the signal actually makes it to your amp. If you use a battery or cell that has some charge, I expect it to bias the preamp of your amp, which would probably ruin your tone, if you hear anything at all. It probably wouldn't destroy anything, since most amp inputs are high impedance, and a few volts isn't going to be able to push enough current to damage anything.
I like crazy ideas, though. All the greatest inventors were insane
Speaker building is another one of my hobbies Adding foam or insulation to an enclosure reduces reflected waves, which, funny enough, acoustically increases the internal volume, as the random hero said. Try the cab with your Celestions with all the foam in. Try removing some foam, or just one side. Try it with no foam at all. Your ears are your jury
Audio speakers that don't have enough damping material sound "loud", even at low volume. Damping material is necessary to absorb sound from the rear of the cone, sound that would otherwise be bounced around the box and reflected out through the cone. Damping material suppresses mid-range peaks, making the response curve smoother. If you are building a port, keep the port free of damping material. Put damping material on the interior of the back panel, one side, and either the top or bottom. The idea is one layer of material in each dimension will absorb reflections. Some builders will put damping material on all the interior walls. Make sure the walls near the woofer are heavily covered. In addition to absorbing reflections, damping material can be used to increase the effective cubic volume of the speaker enclosure. A 20% effective volume increase can be achieved by stuffing the enclosure will material. Don't compress the material. For adjustment of how much to material to use, judge by your ear. Add more material to the enclosure that sounds "loud" at modest volume levels. Fiber glass is the most widely used material. Acoustical grade fiber glass can be bought for this purpose. You can also substitute other materials such as polyester batting, rug underlayment, even old rags. Don’t use dense materials that would significantly change the enclosure volume.
Usually, bridged mode can only handle double the minimum impedance that each non-bridged channel can handle. For example, many car amps can handle a minimum of 2 ohms stereo, but only 4 ohms bridged mono. I have a PA that can handle 4 ohms each channel, and 8 ohms bridged. Check with the equipment recommendations if you can.
LOL, sounds like a kick-ass plan, kurt! The best thing about DIY is adding and tweaking until you come up with something utterly unique that you can brag about and will be the envy of all who witness it. The second best thing is learning what rules and what sucks, so your next build will be even better.
What do you have in mind for the heater power? Filtered DC? Are you planning on using coax for all the signal paths? You wouldn't believe the difference coax makes.