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You should be able to get the female connectors and crimp tool from any automotive, hardware, or home-improvement store. It doesn't matter if they're insulated or not, just match the gauge of wire (size).

You can solder to "push on" connectors as well. Makes a better connection.
Could you post a clear picture? What model is the guitar?
A crapload of crap, lol. I'm interested in these builds as well.

I think you have your understanding of impedance and noise backwards.
I'd like to see guitars that are comprised of some type of nanostructure that, when manipulated, changes the tonal characteristics of the instrument on the fly.

How about no cords, but rather fields of lasers that read all vibrations of the strings, body, neck, etc. and then amplify the sound?
Sure, just use a separate preamp for each pickup, and wire the preamp outputs in parallel. You might need to use coupling caps on the preamp outputs, though, to isolate them from each other.
Non polarized are usually used in crossover networks. It should work fine for your circuit.
Add an OLED screen that continuously plays Virtuagirl shows. ;>
Just a little presence control to boost the gain of high frequencies. During the demo, I start with the pot rolled back, then slowly increase the conduction through the 6.8nF cap. You should hear an increase in brightness.
I constructed a 100% space charge tube circuit today. Here's a closeup video, including some function generator manipulation, etc.

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=7120828950057422531

Here's the schematic:

Then, I replaced the 1M gain pot with a 2M to increase the gain. I used the Schecter Damien stock. It breaks up a bit using the bridge pickup. If you want more gain, add a couple more 12U7 gain stages.

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-61079272005287205
There, I cropped the reverb section.
Magnetism can affect magnetic data storage devices such as floppies and hard drives, but pot tweaking doesn't care.
If the cathode current and plate voltage are correct, then it's the tube. The socket isn't going to have much of an effect in this regard, unless the connection is terrible.

I don't know much about parasitic oscillation. Here's a bit I found:
http://www.antiqueradios.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=90967&sid=56afd8f001fd840be6114d9b9d963aac
There are so many different kinds of tubes because of the many different possible combinations and configurations. They're designed for particular functions. The reverb section of this circuit consists of two tubes, two pots, transformer to drive the tank, and the necessary components to drive the tubes.

A tank could also be added using op amps and/or discreet components in place of the tubes, but the number of components will be about the same.
I agree with preferring the sound of a real spring reverb vs. effects. The problem is, you have to correctly drive the unit, and then correctly recover the wet signal. Here's one way to do it. It can be implemented with solid state components, as well.

I have a funeral to attend today, but I hope to be able to construct an all tube circuit and have a video up by tomorrow. The 12K5 sounds different when driven to saturation, which I didn't accomplish in the previous videos.

Edit: Another edit. This circuit doesn't sound as good as others I've constructed in the past. I merely recorded what I had set up on the breadboard at the time. I'll post a new one soon. Experimentation is the real purpose. Tweak until you hear the sound you want to hear.
Alright, I'm putting myself out there. Please read the descriptions. It was late, I was drunk, and hopefully I brought some joy into your life. Both guitars are completely stock. The sound you hear in the background is the water softener regenerating. I am planning on recording another demo this weekend with an all tube design, without the SS. If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask. Space charge tube are the way to go if you're just getting into tubes and don't want the HV hassle.

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-2796947051832308831

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=7548349589032525553

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-5130154707029567328

I forgot to mention that the master pot between the 12U7 gain stage and phase inverter was maxed the entire time. The only variables were the guitar knobs, the clipper pots, and the pot in series with the 12U7 bypass cap.
Pliers and/or a screwdriver to pry them off. Wiggle them side to side while pulling.
I'm not sure yet whether I want to disclose the particulars of my circuits. I've spent hours and hours experimenting and tweaking. I'm one who believes you learn more by doing the work.

I may post a video soon, if I get a chance to upload. I might even record a small one later today. The videos I have now are hundreds of MB.
Quote by MrCarrot
D'you have any sort of recordings of a PP 12K5 amp? How would you run it? That's an idea I was looking at... Can the tones compare to bigger amps?



I have some vids of my experiments, yes.

How would I run it? What do you mean?

Yeah, the tones are pretty good, I think. The output is just a lot quieter. Sounds close to push-pull 6BQ5/EL84.
How long did you leave it off? Were the tubes and xformer still warm when you turned it back on? Sounds to me like you're maxing out the transformer's current capacity, and inrush is blowing the fuse.

I'd replace the transformer, or add another one to power the extra heaters.

If you increase the secondary current, you increase the primary current. You'll probably need a thicker fuse.
Acquire a better amplifier if you require better tone. If you still don't like the one, then upgrade the pickups. Try any actual SD stuff, not SD designed.
It sounds like the tone stack is shorting the first stage's output or something to that effect. Try completely replacing the tone stack with a 500K pot. If the problem goes away, you know it's the stack. If not, then there's still something wrong with the gain stages. Do you have access to an o'scope?
Yeah, not too bad. SLTS was the first song I learned to play on guitar, so I'm a bit biased. The strumming was a little off here and there, with late and early attacks, but practice will clean that up. I was amazed at the recording, actually. Whomever recorded and mastered this is already a decent sound tech.
Time to get a new g/f, I think. All you can do is probably run extension cords and use outlet strips to power lights and tools. Sounds like a lot of d!cking around to me.
Space charge tubes ARE a lot of fun. I've had good results using 12U7s for the preamp and tone shaping, and 12K5s in push-pull configuration for the output. You can actually achieve some pretty sweet and creamy tones by pushing those 12k5s. I've been playing with space charge tubes for a couple years. I even had a guy design and build a couple custom OTs to work better with the 12K5 impedance and tiny power levels. I found the Hammond 146N also works well with the 12K5.

I definitely recommend messing with space charge tubes to someone interested in learning about tubes.

As far as the power supply goes, I find these to fit the bill: http://www.mpja.com/prodinfo.asp?number=17554+PS
All of the components, including the switch, are mounted on a circuit board. It would require considerable modification. It would be much easier and less frustrating to buy a pedal kit that includes true bypass.
Sounds like the bridge is no longer grounded. Check to make sure the wire going to the bridge didn't become disconnected, or isn't part of your switching scheme.
Oh, it should say on the pot itself what the value is, or you could measure it with an ohm meter. How broken is it?
Caps are not all the same. The different dielectrics have different properties that can affect capacitance depending on the frequency. Just use polypropylene, they'll be fine. 600V caps will be enough for just about everything.

The resistors won't matter as much as the capacitors. Audiophiles swear by metal films, but I can't hear much of a difference between them and carbon comps.
Quote by kurtlives91
OK figured out why fuses were blowing...with three tubes in the fuses blows. Now with two tubes in (I tried all combos of tubes) the fuse doesn't blow.

So the heater winding of the transformers secondary cant handle the extra current the added tube is drawing.

How do I figure out what the heater winding is rated at current wise? I tried searching the net but found nothing...

How the hell did that guy who added a gain stage to his V1 do it...bah

Could I steal 9V DC off the EL84's cathode?



No, way too little current flows through the EL84, remember? You'll exceed the cathode current.

You've searched for the xformer part number? Does it have any ratings printed on it at all?

Have you tried a slow blow fuse? Perhaps inrush current is killing you.

It says 35 watt consumption. Power in = power out. Calculate the amount of secondary power. Maybe you are pushing it.
Any one you can find that has the same number of switches and the same pin pitch will work.
Deburr the holes, and I suggest using grommets for each hole through which you run wires.

Use nuts on the transformer mounting bolts. Aluminum won't hold much. Use nuts for the tube sockets as well.

Instead of electrical tape, I suggest using heat shrink tubing.

I'd have to give it a neatness of 8ish. You'll get better with practice, though.

Love it and squeeze it and call it George

You have some sound, so you're partially there. No, using a 6 ohm speaker won't cause that problem, but the load impedance should still match the output impedance, so try to get an 8 ohm speaker.

I looked at your schematic again. It shows the 12AX7 cathode resistors and caps connected to the heaters.
What pins are they connected to? You should have them connected to the cathodes, which would be pin 3 for the first half, and pin 8 for the second.

What voltages do you read across ground and pin 1, and ground and pin 6?

What voltages do you read between the cathode and grid of each section? You should see -1V give or take a couple hundred millivolts.

My guess is you have the cathode resistors and caps wired incorrectly. Also check the 12AU7. The cathodes are the same pins as the 12AX7.
I suggest the WLC100 as well.