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I recommend going through it with a multimeter. Start in the middle, check to make sure voltages are correct. Here's where an oscilloscope comes in handy. I know not everyone has the luxury, but if you can borrow one for a few hours, it may help.
You want a N.O. switch to wire across the output jack. Did you tell the guy what you're trying to do? Tell him, "I want to short the guitar's output when I press the button." Then, if he gives you a N.C. you can punch him.

Read through the killswitch thread.
Supposedly, both channels want to see a load: http://line6.com/support/entry.jspa?externalID=4479&categoryID=117

You could wire your cab for stereo if you connected two speakers together for left, and two together for right. How you connect them makes a difference. It looks like the amp supports a 4 ohm total minimum, which means you can connect your speakers in only one way to stay safe. You'd have to connect two speakers in series + to -, then connect each pair of speakers to either a stereo jack, or separate mono jacks. If memory serves, this type of wiring was covered in this forum more than once, with pictures. Try to do some searching.
Not guitar related, but an example of point to point circuitry.


The pertinent components can be soldered to either the pots or the jacks, and support the rest.
Sounds like you bought a normally on, or normally closed, switch. If so, when you're not pressing the switch, you will get no signal. The reason is that the switch is intended to short the signal to ground, thereby killing the output. If you got a normally off, or normally open switch, it will act the way you expect.

It's a kill switch. "On" means you're killing the signal. "Off" means you're not killing the signal. Get it?
So if he doesn't have access to perfboard, he must live in a cardboard box? Nice. the poison, just try soldering your components point to point. It's not that hard, and you'll get the hang of it in short order.
Do you have a link to the schematic? (I'm lazy this morning.) You might be on the right track with your theory. Digi-Key has a few: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Cat=131081;keywords=capacitor

With that high of a value, I'm thinking your amp doesn't have a tube rectifier. In that case, a higher value won't be detrimental, as long as the voltage rating meets or exceeds the original.
And I love Big Brother, I just realized (that bastard!)
You could buy a pedal that has reverb, but it won't sound the same as real spring reverb.
Sounds like bad connections to me.
How was it wrong? Two 2uF caps in series will give you 1uF in capacitance.

The best way to connect cannibalized components is point to point.
Your best bet is to pay the price for one. These guys ship to Armenia for $25. http://cgi.ebay.com/Accutronics-Reverb-Tank-Medium-Decay-P-R4EB2C1B-Peavey_W0QQitemZ160228476659QQihZ006QQcategoryZ20831QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247#ShippingPayment

Even if you had all the materials, it would be a bitch to build one. Do you have any music stores or distributors in your area?
Basically, it consists of a couple springs that are strung loosely between two coils. One coil is driven by a section of the amp, and the signal from the opposite coil is fed back into the signal chain along with the dry (unaffected) signal.

The drive signal causes the springs to vibrate, and tend to take awhile to stop vibrating. The size, amount, and tension of the springs, along with how hard they are driven and how much the signal coming back is amplified and filtered determines the reverb sound.

A bit of info and a diagram here: http://sound.westhost.com/project34.htm
Three measly pages? Pathetic! Not that I have anything to add at the moment... but still!
Good question. That would depend on the circuitry, chassis, grounding, location (in the basement, upstairs, or next to a transmitter or microwave.) I would go with the smallest you're comfortable with.
Go with the negative ground method. Connect the jumper on the board between the gray and green traces.

Connect the input and output sleeves together, and also connect them to where it says GND on the board.

Connect the battery minus to the input jack ring connector only. The circuit will be completed when you insert a mono plug.

Connect the battery plus to the red traces on the board.

Connect the input and output to their respective points.

Make sure you solder C1 in the right way (+ connected to Q1).

Also, double check that Q1 and Q2 are soldered in correctly.
You can use that layout. For negative ground, connect the jumper as shown, but connect the battery's negative wire to the input jack ring. Connect the input and output sleeves together, and connect them to the ground point on the PCB. For negative ground, you won't need to connect the battery - to the circuit board.

For positive ground, connect the jumper as shown, and connect the battery's positive wire to the input jack ring. Same thing connect the input and output sleeves together, and connect them both to the ground trace. For positive ground, you will need to connect - from the battery to the PCB.
There are three in your circuit. The sleeve gets tied to ground. The ring, which is between the sleeve and tip, gets connected to power. The tip connects to signal in.

I don't like that layout. The power will never be shut off to the circuit. You're better off connecting the battery to the ring, then connect the sleeves to the ground of the board.
Thanks. I have a lot more in boxes and other drawers and shelves. I don't only work on guitar/audio projects. I need to get things better organized. Your space looks pretty tidy.

Wow, I haven't built that many pedals. You're going to be the next Zachary Vex ;-D
Connect the battery to the board. The battery gets connected to the input jack via the ground trace on the circuit board. Look closer.
Q1: Sure, you could blow the pedal, the speaker, the effects loop, or any combination thereof. If you start hearing a crappy, raspy sound, turn it down. It all depends on the circuitry you have there.

Q2: Sure, and again, it depends on the particular circuitry you are using.
I'm not especially organized, but I have a few parts.











It'll be no problem. Lead free tips are designed to handle the higher melting temperatures of lead free solder. You will quickly wear out a tip meant for leaded solder if you use it with lead-free solder.
If your parts list gets bigger, you might want to start an Excel spreadsheet.
You could also try MCM, Jameco, Electronic Goldmine, All Electronics, MPJA, etc. I prefer to use places that have pictures.
I don't like it at all, either way. Just burn it. I take that back (global warming, carbon footprint, etc.) Shred it and mix it in with some potting soil.
I use a tremol-no. It works fine unless you do huge bends.
Mount them in an enclosure. Wire them in parallel + to +, - to -, and connect them to the amp.
Have you browsed Ebay at all? One time, I acquired a little all tube record player amp for about $10. It all depends on what you find and who's selling it. Any amp can be tailored for guitar. A 4 channel all tube PA amp, in good condition, would go for at least $200, if you luck out.
That's a bummer, man. We tried the coldheat and hated it. You're better off with a cheap 25+ watt soldering iron from Ebay or an electronics store.
Now THAT is tits! Great idea. Does it move around much, though? Might want to add some weight to it.
Sounds like the iron you are using is either very low power, or dirty. Make sure the tip of the iron is clean and has fresh solder. If you still can't melt it, you might need more power.