I recommend going through it with a multimeter. Start in the middle, check to make sure voltages are correct. Here's where an oscilloscope comes in handy. I know not everyone has the luxury, but if you can borrow one for a few hours, it may help.
You want a N.O. switch to wire across the output jack. Did you tell the guy what you're trying to do? Tell him, "I want to short the guitar's output when I press the button." Then, if he gives you a N.C. you can punch him.
You could wire your cab for stereo if you connected two speakers together for left, and two together for right. How you connect them makes a difference. It looks like the amp supports a 4 ohm total minimum, which means you can connect your speakers in only one way to stay safe. You'd have to connect two speakers in series + to -, then connect each pair of speakers to either a stereo jack, or separate mono jacks. If memory serves, this type of wiring was covered in this forum more than once, with pictures. Try to do some searching.
Sounds like you bought a normally on, or normally closed, switch. If so, when you're not pressing the switch, you will get no signal. The reason is that the switch is intended to short the signal to ground, thereby killing the output. If you got a normally off, or normally open switch, it will act the way you expect.
It's a kill switch. "On" means you're killing the signal. "Off" means you're not killing the signal. Get it?
So if he doesn't have access to perfboard, he must live in a cardboard box? Nice. the poison, just try soldering your components point to point. It's not that hard, and you'll get the hang of it in short order.
Basically, it consists of a couple springs that are strung loosely between two coils. One coil is driven by a section of the amp, and the signal from the opposite coil is fed back into the signal chain along with the dry (unaffected) signal.
The drive signal causes the springs to vibrate, and tend to take awhile to stop vibrating. The size, amount, and tension of the springs, along with how hard they are driven and how much the signal coming back is amplified and filtered determines the reverb sound.
Good question. That would depend on the circuitry, chassis, grounding, location (in the basement, upstairs, or next to a transmitter or microwave.) I would go with the smallest you're comfortable with.
You can use that layout. For negative ground, connect the jumper as shown, but connect the battery's negative wire to the input jack ring. Connect the input and output sleeves together, and connect them to the ground point on the PCB. For negative ground, you won't need to connect the battery - to the circuit board.
For positive ground, connect the jumper as shown, and connect the battery's positive wire to the input jack ring. Same thing connect the input and output sleeves together, and connect them both to the ground trace. For positive ground, you will need to connect - from the battery to the PCB.
It'll be no problem. Lead free tips are designed to handle the higher melting temperatures of lead free solder. You will quickly wear out a tip meant for leaded solder if you use it with lead-free solder.
Have you browsed Ebay at all? One time, I acquired a little all tube record player amp for about $10. It all depends on what you find and who's selling it. Any amp can be tailored for guitar. A 4 channel all tube PA amp, in good condition, would go for at least $200, if you luck out.