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Sounds like channel switching is overheating. What's the ambient temp around there?
You might be able to bypass the modeling bits.
Quote by adstr123
^Okay, thanks again, you guys are insanely helpful

I have work tomorrow (work in teh bookshopz) so I'll check these bad boys then, we'll have them in. I get 30% discount, including the used section, so thanks for the Alibris link but I'll be good for books :P Seriously all that was brilliant, hopefully you'll see my first pedal build threads popping up sooner rather than later!

Looking forward to it.
Quote by adstr123
OK, cheers
Now awaiting end_citizen to finish the amp building thread, which he has said he's do in a couple of weeks when semester ends. Should help me with schematic reading

One last thing, what's a good electronics Bible, so to speak? Like, takes me from the very basics to advanced stuff, covers the whole spectrum basically, to give me a good grounding in electronics. I already know some but not enough, seemingly.

I saw Xgamer recommend The Art of Electronics, by Paul Horowitz somewhere. Would this be suitable?

Thanks again
No idea. I learnt by looking up little tidbits around the internets every now and then.

For tube amps electronic specifically, Merlin Blencowe's site is a very good start, though. I also like Morgan Jones's books.
Yikes... :S

Can't hear much from that clip, tbh.
Quote by Linqua5150
http://ultimate-guitar-valveking.wikispaces.com/Amp+Mods+-+Electronics
scroll down and read the part that says JCM800 mod. to add to that, ive opened my friends VK and seen the stage on the board myself
That's weird. I distinctly recall seeing a VK schematic and seeing what is basically half a XXX preamp.

Got a schematic for me? I can't find any atm.. Schematicheaven is down.
Quote by Linqua5150
the bigger ones arent hybrid in a sense. i like to call my ht-100 the british valveking(and then some) for a couple of reasons. first of all they are very similar amps in similar(kind of) price ranges. second, im not 100% sure, but based on what ive gathered, the ht-100 at least is tube, but has a diode gain stage like a valveking. the ht-5 has what, 1x 12ax7 i think? the ht-100 has two 12ax7s and a 12au7 in the preamp stage. the large portion of the ht-5s drive is acheived with solid state components, though its not completely solid state. (i think) its more or less the opposite with the ht-100. so its hybrid, but i guess, less hybrid so to speak? lol. thats why the bigger amps sound better than the ht-5. on the gain knob on od2 channel, you can kind of feel when the diode stage kicks in(i spent a while chasing this point down), its right around like 2 o'clock ish, it gets gainier, but also thicker/muddier. sometimes i guess this could be desired but i think its a bit more clear but just gainy enough when you sit just below that 2 o'clock threshold.
The VK does not have any diode clipping/diode gain stages. It's pretty low gain and probly not as modern voiced as the HT-100.
Quote by mmolteratx
Still doesn't add up. Clean channel would use one tube. Dirty channel would need at least 2 to get heavy. Then the PI would need another. There's trickery afoot.
Clean channel can share a tube with the dirty channel. There's probly some SS stuff in there anyway.
Quote by Vinson
Well, that or he was just playing a much different style than he normally practices.

Gain can hide some things, but also reveals other things. The compression makes your mistakes as loud as your intended notes. Muting has to be much better when playing with lots of gain as well.

Lots to be learned from BOTH clean and distorted.
Yeah, exactly. And a trained ear can easily hear "untightness" even behind walls of distortion.

All you blues guys playing sloppy just call it "feeling" and "soul".
Nice

Be sure to include a sun surface temperature control.
Quote by justinb904
I was about to post this word for word.
Some combinations of amp and pedal setting are just prone to pick up radio signals. Happened to a fried of mine while his band was playing a show between songs.

Great minds think alike

I'm pretty sure this stuff is just down to improper shielding/grounding, though.
Quote by theDogger
Here ya go found the pic.....The chock should not increase the operating voltages.....it will help regulate them better and filter...
theDogger
If you put it instead of the first resistor after the reservoir cap like in that pic, it will most certainly increase operating voltages. This is simply because it has a lower resistance than that resistor.
Quote by CannedBullets
That would actually sound cool if the radio wasn't watered down. But how does that happen to amps anyways?
Guitar cables can make pretty good radio antennas...
Quote by theDogger
Has anyone added a choke to their 6262? I remember seeing a pic of someone that added one. I am looking for info. on where to connect it on the board...

theDogger
A choke will improve the filtering in the B+ supply. It will also increase the operating voltages (which may not be safe to do, or at least be detrimental to the life of the amplifier/tubes) and lower power supply sag.

You would have to place it instead of the first resistor after the reservoir cap (a big wire wound resistor). Maybe you could also put it in series with this resistor to keep the voltages safe, but either way you'll have to ask around in GB&C because there are a lot of knowledgeable folk in there.
Quote by adstr123
No no, I'm okay with what components do and their symbols. The main problem I have is that if I were to look at a schematic, I wouldn't know how to translate it into a real world circuit. I know where the components are and what they do, but if I was asked to build the circuit, I couldn't do it (apart from really simple ones), and since that's kinda the main point of schematics I thought I should ask here :P

Okay, I get that's it's a progressive thing and you learn over time. It's just getting started on the basics, once I build my first circuit from a proper schematic I'm sure I'll be able to progress from there quite easily

I think something that could help me is if I were given a schematic, and then given a picture of the end circuit that resulted from it. I've PM'ed end_citizen, who wrote the thread that salgala linked to, because he was giving schematics and then saying he actually used them to build an amp of his. So hopefully he'll mail me back some of the images of the circuits from the schematics so I can actually see what's going on.

Thanks people for your help
Ahh, I see. You could look up project schematics on AX84.com, they have very detailed guides on their projects, and they're not terribly complicated builds. Would be a great start.
It's all for turretboard/PTP wiring, though. So if you wanna do PCB stuff it may not be really suitable.
Your amp's power supply might transmit some 60Hz waves but I don't think that's what you meant..
Quote by Cathbard
True but one needs a certain level of understanding before they can be tutored further. You can't learn calculus before multiplication. I'm just trying to prevent you from doing damage to your amp and/or yourself. Get it fixed and then go learn some of the basics first. Next time, if you are armed with some fundamental knowledge, advice that can be given on a forum may actually be of some use.
That's kinda true. Tube amps are an interesting subject, but you can't just dive into it.
Quote by Kanthras
Does it work with different guitars/cables?

Well?
Hey, that's a pretty cool song. Think I'm gonna learn it too.

Great sound as well, gain seems a bit low tho.

edit: just listened to the original on youtube.. jezus, that vocalist needs to take a cup of shut the **** up.
Quote by Bloodshed
Check out this unmastered unmixed raw recording from my band.

We have three guitarists, for those who don't remember me around these parts.

the 3 amps are:
Bugera V22
Marshall 1974x
Laney GH50L

Each amp is run through either a vintage Sunn 412 Cabinet (Marshall), an Ampeg v412 with G12H30s (Bugera) or a 1980something Crate 412 with Seventy Eightys (Laney).

www.myspace.com/writteninredrawk

The song is called Oh Captain, I'm Captain

Enjoy!
The guitar tone is a nice vintagey flavoured kind of br00tz. A bit loose, mid gain. Suits the music very well. I found part of the song kinda relaxing, actually (about one minute in).

And I hope you don't mind some criticism...

The drumming is really weird in the beginning (before the screams come in). Feels really off-beat compared to the guitars. Maybe you were going for that?
Chuggies about 2/3 in need tightening up.
The preamp tubes are inside the metal chassis of the amplifier. I'm pretty sure your cab isn't the problem. To me, it sounds like a grounding issue or a tube issue.

Just to restate: the stuff inside that chassis can be pretty dangerous. You have been warned.
Quote by Katsock
How much will bringing it in cost, and do u guys think it def is the ore tubes?
Don't you have a buddy who does EE or something? Or anyone else experienced with electronics? But anyway, if you're really careful you can do this. Just be careful not to touch anything of the circuit and do the tap test on the preamp tubes inside. Don't do it with a pencil, graphite is conductive. Chopsticks are good, use your right hand. Keep left hand behind your back or in your pocket so you don't complete a circuit with your hands/through your heart. Good luck.
Quote by Katsock
i dont wanna waste my money on that. Everthing is unplugged and such.
Unplugged means very little. The filter caps in the power supply can still contain a large dosage of ZAP and SHOCK.
Ya, 5150s are a bit retarded in the way they keep their preamp tubes inside the chassis. If you go in there, know that with some bad luck you could induce some bitchin' cardiac arrest in yo ass. Take it to a tech if you don't know what you're doing.
Does it work with different guitars/cables?
Quote by adstr123
Hey, I'm brand new to electronics in general, but am looking to increase my knowledge and the ultimate goal is to build a good/useable tube amp at some point soon.

I've been doing a lot of research in books (I work in a bookshop, nerdy but daymn convenient ) and on the internet. But one place I'm getting really stuck with is wiring schematics; specifically how to read them. Obviously you can't write up a guide on how to read them here, but if someone could direct me to a good book or website I'd be really grateful. I understand the basics (symbols etc.) but I have trouble with complex ones following the flow of electricity and knowing exactly what effect components have on the electrical flow, so why is that component here, what's it's purpose? Etc.

Thanks everyone
I don't think there are books on reading schematics. I learnt it by steadily going from very simple schematics (booster pedals), to slightly harder ones (Valve Junior) to more complex stuff. It takes a while to train your eyes and brains to see through the maze of lines of, for example, a Mesa Boogie Roadking schematic.

If you mean you don't know what certain components do, there's a lot of info on the first post in this thread about that kind of stuff.
Quote by eyebanez333
I didn't.
I know, but I did. You seemed to imply it, that's all.
Quote by eyebanez333
+1

Harley Bentons are great sounding cabs on a budget if you must have a new cab. Check the used market if you can...in the US especially. You can definitely do better than the Bugera cab.

As for the 333XL. Its a great sounding amp, but as mentioned above, the reliablilty and build quality isn't great. Same with the cab...depending on your location, certain things might be of better value. Here in the States, a used XXX or JSX would be a much better deal than a Bugera
I wouldn't call a JSX great build quality either.
Quote by ShAd0w666
Okay last question, how do i power it off and on correctly? Should i turn the bugera on and put it in standby until it heats up or something else? And do i put it in standby mode and then after it cools down shut it down? Or is that not the correct way?
Putting it on standby doesn't cool it down. When powering down, just turn it all off. For powering on, it's generally considered correct procedure to put it in standby for a minute before you get to annoy any neighbours.
Since the 333 is pretty similar I'll comment as well:

1) It's been perfectly reliable for me so far, although build quality isn't the best.
2) More gain than anyone will ever need, unless you're Portal.
3) Lots of tonal variety, can get a lot of different sounds with some tweaking.
4) ?
5) Classic rock/blues.
6) The noise gate is not actually a proper noise gate like an ISP Decimator, but it's a nice feature and works in a pinch.
7) Active EQ could take some getting used to.
Quote by Offworld92
That, or he sucks at EQ'ing.

I always thought the whole speakers breaking in thing was a myth.
Idunno. It's probably one of those audiophile things that probably has some grounds in reality, but whose effect is generally exaggerated.

Would be fairly easy to test, though. Sine wave generator, amplifier, mic. See if the response changes after a week.
Quote by sewoo55
now the question is.... is it true? are all amps like this, or just tube amps?
It's not about the amp, but the speakers. A lot of speakers need to be broken in.
Grab a multimeter and find out.
Quote by jlangholzj


if you look at the heat generated by a typical LED that takes ~300mA its negligible. Not even worth thinking about. LED's are designed to avalanche break down before they get to a stage where they get sooper hot. However the big LED's that have like 6 terminals on em are the really hi-po ones. They're about 1" in diameter on a PCB. Those things are rated at about 10A and they put off some serious heat.
Saying the heat is negligible and saying they don't generate heat are two very different things.

Also, try those cell phone "flash" LEDs. They're crazy bright and pretty tiny. Most will burn out if you try to use them as a torch (usually they're software protected against this).
I guess you gotta figure out what each pin connects to. Got a schematic?
Quote by phuckoph
I only asked about the case on here because I wasn't sure what it is made of.

And the jack seems to be CONNECTED to the circuit board. Like, the bottom of the black box that is the jack has *barely* visible contacts running to the board directly underneath. Almost no space between. I could not unsolder this in such a small space, or even tell if it's soldered or just clipped into place somehow. I only looked at it for a moment, but when I pulled the nut off the jack, it still didn't budge.
Since the jack is broken anyway, I'd just clip the contacts. That'll make it much easier to desolder.

Got pics, btw? I think I know what you mean, but I might be wrong.