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It probably means a pair of diodes was removed. This lowers the amount of distortion but makes whatever's left less harsh.
Should be fine, but may not sound great. Would help to use a balun thingie to convert the balanced mic signal to unbalanced.
Quote by Brendan.Clace
I'll be surprised if these amps hit the US ever....let alone this summer.....Randall Smith has filed all sorts of suits against Bugera in the US already.
Got a source?
Quote by Crohny
sounds cool, but with their track record in the past and the fact im having issues with a cab of theirs leads me to believe that all this more advanced technology could be a bit much for them to handle and insure that it is going to be reliable. bugera has a lot of ground to make up before i considered trying one of their amps again. with companies like jet city doing no thrills and no bullshit amps, its hard to give bugera a chance when there are far better companies out there doing it in the ame budget.
Oh, come on. There's nothing like the thrill of knowing you might end up in a massive fireball every time you turn on your Bugera. Fk'n BRUTAL.
Quote by Skaman_srb
That is one of the reasons I had my doubts about buying Bugera, they don't have any amps with separate eq under 120W and mobility is important to me. There is a good chance that I'll go for Peavey 6505+ 112 (separate eq, all tube, spring reverb, mobility, and it sounds amazing). It looks like it suits my needs better than Bugera
My 333 is an amp with three separate EQs, and it currently outputs 60W.
Quote by Offworld92
Really depends on the drummer. My drummer is loud as ****, and I have to turn up halfway to be heard clearly. Halfway on a 100W amp is ****ING LOUD.
Well, that depends on the volume pot's taper.
Quote by Duv
It would really help if amp manufacturers put graphs out in relation to this stuff.

They do in car brochures, and in their R&D they must have to produce them so why not publish them.

Or do they?
Yeah, that would be nice. Although you don't need a graph. Just two numbers, for clean headroom and full throttle.
Depends on the speakers more than anything.
Sure they'll listen to me, I'm not nearly as obnoxious as you.
Quote by sorark
Tube amps technically aren't lounder then SS amps BUT they sound about 1.5x louder to HUMAN EARS because of the extra harmonic's they produce in overtones, etc.
That's odd, because SS amps tend to produce far more overtones when overdriven.

Valve amps being perceived as louder has actually got to do with how they're rated, not with overtones.
Very good tone, below average build quality. IMO, ideal for home use. Gigging maybe not so much.
Quote by Way Cool JR.
^^ How would that dissolve the tip I have been using the same tip for over 10 years now and it still looks like new.
Then your tip is probably plated.
Quote by Way Cool JR.
Hate to tell you dude but I built electronics for a living for NASA, Lockheed Martin, and Boeing Aircraft and multiple Military projects. I am aerospace certified so I know the right way to solder and the explanation I gave is the laymen way of explaining how to do it right. I was one of the best at what I did and proud of it. I figured everyone knows you need a wet sponge and to keep your tip clean.

You should always use flux and rosin core solder the rosin in the solder is what makes the solder stick to the tip and the flux is what makes the solder flow and stick to the parts you are soldering. It makes me laugh almost every time I see people explain how to solder, most people do not know the proper procedure. I guess I should make a complete how to video that shows the proper way.

You did explain it better than me but I am not going to give a full tutorial for soldering a wire to a piece of metal that is ignorant. And it is a myth about the never melt solder with the tip and transfer or it will get a cold solder, I never got a cold solder unless there was a breeze blowing on it.
Jezus, I'm not stepping on a Boeing again, just Airbus from now on...

But seriously, I'm sure your way works, but that's not how you're "supposed" to do it. I'm also pretty sure putting that much solder on your iron tends to dissolve the tip pretty quickly.
You either have a shielding/grounding problem or a crappy amp. Might be both.
You can run REAPER under Windows, OS X and Wine.
Quote by kangaxxter
If you're just beginning it doesn't really matter. You need a cable that works. I wouldn't worry about spending a lot on an expensive cable.

(Personally, I would never spend more than 10% if the price of my amp for a cable, although I'd never spend less than $10 on a cable, anything beneath that is, in my opinion, absolute crap.)
10% of your amp's price for a able is crazy, unless you have a really cheap amp.
6505? Will certainly get you teh metalcorez.
How are you soldering it, btw? What's your "solder process"?
On EL84s, pin 6 is unused right? So I could safely use that as a terminal for a grid stopper?

Also, is it normal for a transformer to show higher than operating voltages on the secondaries if the secondaries are open?
What kind of solder are you using? Does it have a resin core?
Yes, I'm a very sad panda.
Quote by Tunder250
I meant the brand
You really hate all their amps?
Quote by Raijouta
The JCA20 is based on the Soldano Atomic 16. The JCA100 is based on the SLO. Expecting a 20w amp to perform similarly to a 100w amp is pretty interesting.
Expecting it to have some balls isn't that extraordinary...
Quote by Tunder250
nope, i just f*cking hate marshall

Why? I heard he's a really nice guy.
Dude, this isn't gonna work. Tiny amps like this don't work all that well for metal and you obviously don't know the first thing about modding.

IMO, either save up or get a Peavey Vypyr.
Quote by TheQuailman
Hey guys, there's this company that is trying to sell something called a "boat". It's kind of like a car, except it drives on water only. Wtf is up with that? It doesn't have a proper steering wheel and no pedals also, which sucks, cause I want a steering wheel and pedals in my car. Like, I don't want that thing for use on water. I want to go to the grocery store, and a boat can't do that. It pisses me off that this boat isn't a car, and they didn't even try to make it one! They just went "look, here's a boat!" I just want to use cars. Why won't they sell me a car, dammit?
Those bastards!
Quote by braden5
This thing looks like a POS I wouldn't play this even if it bought me a drink and called me baby. It may be a sythesizer or something like a keytar, but how to you FEEL the strings to pick on a piece of fricken glass? Avoid this like a creepy stalker.
This thing looks like a POS I wouldn't play this even if it bought me a drink and called me baby. It may be a guitar or something like a lute, but how to you FEEL the strings to pluck when you use a piece of frickin plastic? Avoid this like a creepy stalker.
Quote by Invader Jim
a tube amp will always have low-voltage taps on the PT. how else would they power the tube heaters...
I'm not too familiar with SS stuff. I figured 6.3V would be too low for that.
Quote by salgala2000
Wait, effects loops have to have a buffer?

I'm just asking since maybe (since I don't have this whole impedance load thing down yet) the preamp has a low output impedance, and that it can cause treble loss if the pedals have a high impedance input. If the power amp isn't sensitive to impedances than I could see how it could happen. I'm just thinking out loud now

Halp please?

Well, they don't absolutely have to be buffered, but it's a very good idea to do so. Else, you're most likely gonna have impedance matching problems and unpredictable tonez.
The preamp can probably drive most pedals, since most pedals can be driven by guitars which are much higher impedance. Many pedals have their own input buffer as well. I think the biggest problem is that a lot of pedals will not be able to drive the poweramp.
Quote by ChrisBW
Only bad thing about it is the clean channel. It works well, but it's just a bit sterile for me. I think if they would have but a gain knob on that channel they would have been golden.
The volume of the clean channel is actually a gain knob. Try cranking it (cranking tone knobs help too, they're all right in front of a clipping stage), you'll get some breakup.
Quote by JonnyH
All down to personal preference really. My Tiny Terror with a boost creates comparable tones to all those big boys.
No it doesn't. Unless you have some crazy definition of comparable.
Do a bolt on neck. Best sustain. Proven by SCIENCE.
Uhhh, that's not what I meant.. Do you know the difference between a tube buffered and a SS buffered FX loop? And do you know the specs on the PT?
Could be difficult. If you want a SS effects loop getting the right voltages may be difficult, I doubt the power transformer has the right taps. And the power transformer might not be able to handle an extra tube for a tube effects loop.

So basically, it comes down to the PT.
People are exaggerating the problems (or joking, the whole fire extinguisher thing is a running gag around here). The channel switching has been fixed.
Wow, Dave. That's a true classic Nossie quote there. Very nice.
Quote by coolstoryangus
I didnt say you where you just all type the same. Its funny. And how is that guy a troll he has a bugera amp and its falling apart... stop being blind..
Now now, Angus... Don't get this thread locked again.
Quote by darkwolf291
No like a vacuum cleaner.
I found the thread too!
https://www.ultimate-guitar.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1401486

Wow, that is epic.
Quote by darkwolf291
My bad. And yes! My god! DO NOT LET A VACUUM ANYWHERE NEAR YOUR GEAR!
You mean a vacuum like in a ... vacuum tube?

It's a tube tone paradox!