Content
Thread
Forum
Date
Quote by shannone27
Tonally, a solid sate amp will sound exactly the same regardless of how loud it is turned up, until it reaches saturation (clipping).
lol

You're funny!
Solid state amps are also known for their clean headroom. A 100W tube amp will break up way before a 100W solid state amp will.
Depends on how they're rated for their wattage.
Quote by Axe-man69
Just as a side note, I bought my self a Behringer Vintage Tube Monster
O/D pedal. Its a bloody nice valve driven unit. It goes REALLY well with the V series Bugeras. I found it complimented nicely both the V5 and V55, either used on the clean channel as a third dist channel or lower set as a boost on the gain channel, it is voiced very closely to these.
And its VERY transparent. Careful tweaking of the very useful EQ controls gives u almost no discernible difference to your tonal response. WAY better than a SS TS type pedal!

These are easily modifiable, and experimenting with different preamp valves should yield different types of distortions.

The stock valve's a Bugera branded 12AX7B. But nearly any type of standard 12A** should work in it.
Those who have experimented claimed either Sovteks or EHX or even JJs made it even nicer.

So for $100, I got full on tube OD to go in front. I tried the SD clean boost but it tended to squash the signal too much, so I use it in the FX loop as a vol boost.

This makes more sense. Push Valve clipping into a valve amp, the other way is anachronistic. Putting SS clip into valve amp with a SS pedal that's PRETENDING to sound LIKE a valve amp!
Talk about Ironies!

Check it out!
http://www.behringer.com/EN/Products/VT999.aspx

The previous VT911 Tube Overdrive, is NO-where as good. Very tinny and fuzzy, with full saturation reached at about 3 on the gain knob.

On the VT999, it doesn't get full on till at least 7-8, so the gain is more evenly spread out & as far as I can tell, the EQ stage soaks up a fair bit of that gain. Any less than 3 on the output level leaves it fairly dull sounding, over that all the frequencies start to stand out!

Far more usefull in tone and the distortion is much richer and harmonic!
Hate to break it to you, but a tube running such ridiculous plate starvation does not clip like a tube in an amplifier with a proper HT supply. It's great that you like it, but that pedal doesn't do valve clipping. Doesn't mean it's bad, it's just not what they claim it is.
Quote by salgala2000
Free bump because I have another question

When does analog electronics become digital? I would think that it's when your signal is turned into 1's and 0's instead of being a normal signal. Is that correct?
No, it's about discrete values instead of continuous values.

For example, you could have a digital system that works with values 0, 1 and 2. Those meaning, no voltage, some voltage, high voltage.
For solid state amps: can handle higher impedance, it'll just run on lower power.
For tube amps: mismatch is never good.
Pit? Wrong forum.

Try a dual recto or 5150, it's what all the chugga chugga bands are using.
Great, you're already over it.

Seriously though, I do like the whole locking part of the locking trem. I just wish locking fixed bridges were more common.
1. Get guitar with shitty trem.
2. Get over your tremolo-phase.
3. Block the trem.
4. ???
5. Profit!
Quote by Yooxa
Anyone care to help me out deciding?
Probably will. Not much difference, though.
If you're gonna plug it into a PA, you don't need a poweramp.
Quote by Mad Marius
Here's a little tip someone I know told me. He plays in some black/death metal band, and the crowds can be quite intolerant and prone to random acts of violence:

When playing powerchords, use the index and little fingers, a la Kirk Hammett. The reason for that isn't musical, it's because if you use the index and ring fingers, the middle finger will stick out and the crowd will think you're flipping them off.
There's nothing more brutal than flipping off the crowd while you're doing teh chuggiez.

But seriously, your friend is pulling your leg.
Quote by munizfire
huh???
too late to ask i guess
http://www.geofex.com/ampdbug/ampdebug.htm

Sounds like it was simply biased too hot, tbh.
Quote by munizfire
man, u got to be kidding me... i havent even played it for 4 hours and it turned off, wont turn back on :'( i knew the 333xl came shitty, but i always thought the 6262 were good
Have you done the standard debugging routine?
Hypocritical amps are the worst kind of amps. Don't buy into its marketing.
Quote by denied
Great, thanks. So for those individuals seeking a healthy and positive relationship with the local fire department, a pre-2009 model is preferable. I'll keep this in mind.
Well, that's one way of looking at it.

edit: holy shit greg, that's awesome.
^

@denied: no, that's only for models made before 2009. For the rest, you are only required to have a fire alarm.
Quote by denied
According to the manual, if you want to use a water extinguisher or sprinkler system you need to unplug the amp and drain the caps first.
Only if you're in the same room (you noob, don't know anything about standard Bugera safety practice do you?). I have a separate saferoom for my 333. It's completely electrically insulated. I only open it when there's fire inside. You can imagine that's quite a PITA, so an automated sprinkler system would be ideal.
Quote by SwampAshSpecial


lets test that...
I consider everything that leads to pics of Emma Stone a resounding win. Good work trolls.
Quote by SwampAshSpecial
you should think about investing some money into a bigger one like cath said
Ya, or install a sprinkler inside the chassis. Should be an easy mod. There's enough room for a tapwater plug in the back. Don't know if they make those in PCB mount styles, though.
Yeah, I just emptied mine yesterday. Need to refill it. Second time this month, and we're just 4 days in...
IIRC, the last time we had a political discussion in here things went pretty bad.

...

...

Quote by denied
To be fair, it wasn't the most subtle attempt
True, but my trolldar is quite modern.

Axe-man69 probably has a vacuum tube operated one. Time to upgrade!
Quote by TheQuailman
Yah, and I think you're probably the only guy to play on both teams in this game.
Hehe, that way I can't lose.

Is there a Bugera troll UG group or something?
It's uncanny how you all joined in at the same time.

You're missing AM, though. Anyone got his phone number?
^ hehehe...

Quote by Cathbard
Kanthras knew what he was looking at.
I've got more GG&A experience.

Fed enough Bugera trolls to recognize one by now.
Quote by ConfederateAxe
Lower the coupling caps in the early stages as well. You can do some awesome peaking and shelving with the right cathode and plate bypassing.

Yeah, there's a lot of flexibility there.
Quote by Offworld92
The OD is being used as a boost, not for dirt. There is no way to really replicate the sound of a boosted amp without an OD.
Yeah. I mean, it's impossible to put a high-pass filter in front of the preamp. Or lower the value of the cathode bypass caps.
Quote by kakos
does running the amps with two powers really make that much of a difference? i keep gettin told its not worth it as the volume difference isn't that much. i was really thinking of doing as well, save money on tubes i guess too? care to shed any light? ....
The volume difference is 3 dB. I do it mainly to save money, though.
Well, it opens up at about 3 on master (channel halfway). That's high volume, but you'll get away with it occasionally.
Going higher than that isn't really necessary, the tonez won't improve.

It probly helps I'm running it on two power tubes and into a 1x12 cab. Shaves off a few dB.
Quote by wigzwamz
Would a 333xl and a cab be too loud for bedroom use only? I've been thinking of getting the head and a cab but was concerned that it would be too loud for non gigging purposes.

Would you reccomend one for home recording?
I use my 333 with a 1x12 cab all the time for bedroom use. It can get really quiet. It's great for recording too.
It's not the voltage, but the amperage that kills.
Just buy the cheapest pickup you can find. Chances are it isn't potted and sounds awful.
Quote by Levi79
I always thought that the guitar wood has a very small difference on your tone. But my mind was changed today when I tried out my buddies JEM. He has an X2N in it, and I asked what it was in the bridge cause it sounded pretty damn good. I was surprised that he said it was an X2N cause it was noticeably brighter than mine.
Compare both guitars with new (same brand and gauge) strings, same potentiometer value, same cable, same amp, same cab, same speakers, etc, then you can draw such conclusions.
Quote by ConfederateAxe
Warranty doesn't cover tubes.
It usually does, but not for two years obviously. I think 90 days is standard.
Maybe treble booster up front?
It's worth noting that an SS rectifier + series resistor = also saggy. Not a hard mod, if you wanna try to hear what sag sound like on your own amp. You could make it switchable.
Quote by Gundamnitpete
Yes.

The speakers aren't as bad as poeple make them out to be, but I bet the ones in your cab are better.

I haven't done it personally, but I bet the 333 would be good for leads and the 6262 great for rhythm.
I think my 333 does rhythm much better than leads, it's an absolute chug-machine. Leads are on the harsh side, imo.
Quote by AmericanParadox
The difference between 50 and 100 watt is something around 4dB.
All other things being equal, it's actually a difference of exactly 3 dB.
A versus thread? Between Bugera and JCA?

*takes cover*