Found 400 results
Found 400 results
Masking tape would work too. Or don't use any and splatter over the whole guitar for the full br00tlz effect.you could take all the stuff off the body, then get a bunch of colors and jackson pollack the whole thing.
The DSL is a tube amp, silly.most of the times this is due to the electronics inside, to increase amplitude gain of your signal (i.e the volume) a higher voltage swing voltage is gonna appear at each transistor and transistors have a limit margin. (well technically thats not the whole picture) (if your not an 3rd year electrical engineering student, your gonna have a hard time to understand the transistor thing ) All in all what u need to know is that when your push a speaker to its limit your gonna lose sound quality (Im sure you have notice this before). In my case for example I have Marshall 100DFX, and it sounds good when I keep the master lower than half of its maximal value. If I go past its midway value I lose sound quality. (The rule of thumb is if you want to play with an output of of say 100W than get an amplifier which has 150W or 200W capability)
That tells you the heaters are functional, not the entire tube. Try swapping them around with spares.They are all still lit up
How exactly do you know the tubes aren't bad?Sooooooo I used my amp at a showcase last week and it died right before. And I took it home and tried it again but it still won't turn on. The tubes are all still fine in the back and my fuse isn't blown. It still turns on and everything but it won't make any sound. Before it was just my clean channel that didn't work, now it's everything. It's a v55. I tried calling Bugera today but they still on Christmas break... Anyone think of a problem?
I'd use a real interface as opposed to the line in.
Transparency for sale, get your transparency right here!Yes it should do mate.
It might've overheated. An inadequate heatsink on an MG sounds pretty plausible to me.pics or it didn't happen.
and even if it did happen, you must be scarred for life by the appauling noise that must've come out of that thing, and pretty much deaf, too. but i really have my doubts as to whether turning amp up "full whack" on every control really can make it catch fire, even if it is an MG.
IIRC what Mr. Smith does (no, not the one from The Matrix) is just use a really cold fixed bias. You don't HAVE to adjust this kind of bias, because it's pretty much always safe. It's probably always nonoptimal as well, though.FALSE
Here's an excerpt from the Mark IV manual....
"Time to change tubes? Just plug our tubes into any one of our amps and you're DONE. No tech needed. No bills, and no BS about biasing. And most important: The bias is RIGHt because it can't change!"
"I wanted to build amplifiers that were individually hard wired to the correct values and NEVER needed adjustment. And for 25 years, that's how Mesa Boogies have been built"
hmmm how would I go about that, do you know? thanks
getting a 333xl soon and wondering how long the footswitch cable is, and if there is any way to extend it (not familiar with midi cables and whatnot)
Tell that to people who've tried every speaker imaginable with their V22 but prefer the stock one.Bugera speakers are the worst.
NO1 interested in my report???
Most folks don't GET to meet the Behringer folks in person!!!
People think that because they A/B a 5150 and 6505 and they sound different, that means they have a different circuit.Thanks for this, most people don't believe me when I say the 5150 is a bit higher in gain then the 6505. People think because they both have 5 preamp tubes and 4 power tubes they must have the same circuit, but they don't.
??????I am very impressed with the Baron K88. I will be ordering one with my tax returns this January. However, tonally, it is not that different then a Soldano SLO circuit.
Seriously, these two circuits are almost identical. However, if you're interested in the Soldano SLO circuit, then you may as well also look into a Peavey 5150/6505 or a Bugera 6262.
The Baron K88, Soldano SLO, Peavey 5150/6505 & Bugera 6262 all sound almost identical. The only real difference is in manufacturing quality (and who's name is on the label). I really don't feel that you would actually hear that much of a difference between all of them.
Do you need one with a LIFETIME warranty? Get the Soldano SLO
Do you need one handwired? Get the Baron K88
Do you need one as cheap as possible? Get the Bugera 6260 or 6262
Do you want to go cheap but maintain quality? Get the Peavey 5150/6505
And, as always, the used market will net you better prices.
Well, the point is it's gonna lose a ton of value when the next "generation" comes along.That may be true Kanthras - but that is just competition/supply-demand. Fractal Audio would have to lower their prices to compete. I'm just saying if you buy one today I don't see how it would be bad investment. Again, I wouldn't buy one.
yeah, unlikely.If you're lucky the axefx might be a nvidia 8800 and be reasonable tech for a good 3-4 years however that is doubtful.
lol dunno why I missed thatMaybe y0ou did not see my reply to your post. But yes I have tried swapping all the tubes out with know good working one's and the ones ini the 333XL work in my Mesa
Well, if a more powerful/cheaper modeler comes along, it's gonna look pretty outdated. Similar to how a GeForce 4800 is now ancient, but once delivered teh uber graffix.The Axe Fx is constantly being updated so I don't see how it will ever get out-dated.
Well, sound quality is subjective.. But things like shielding and capacitance do matter in instrument cables.From what I've seen/heard there's no such thing as a better cable sound quality wise.
There's this article about how audiophiles couldn't tell the difference between a coat hanger and an extremely high quality cable.
Too lazy to find it, and I'm at school.