Quote by Adam124
I think I'm going to go ahead and buy new tubes for my 6262 then.

Should I get 2 sets of these?
Yeah, I'd definitely get two sets so you have a backup.

Also, what about pre amp tubes? Will i need to buy a new set aswell? I don't know which ones to buy so a link from you guys would help!
Nah, preamp tubes last much longer. Get a one or two spares and you'll be fine. I personally like JJs, although I think the stock preamp tubes sound good in Bugeras (Shuguangs).

Will I need to bias them aswell? I haven't got a multimeter although I could probably get my hands on one.
Ya, definitely get a multimeter and bias probe.
Quote by enselmis
You do realize that tone comes from a Line 6 POD right? Not strictly a pedal, but I'd say it falls around there.

Although, I use an Invader so I won't judge...
I was under the impression Bulb switched from ENGLs to an Axe-FX...
Two amps doesn't equal instant full sound. Maybe add chorus to one signal?
You need a slow blow fuse with the same voltage/amps rating. It should say what kind of fuse needs to go in either on the back of the amp or in the manual. Usually, fuses have markings too.
Quote by Danjo's Guitar
Mesa is pretty much the best on the market, so if you like the amp, I'd say get it.

Ya, anyway, don't be afraid to use volume knobs. A lot of higher wattage amps sound great at lower volumes. Unless you're going for that powar t00b saturation.
Quote by natehimself
peavey jsx

Probly that.
I for one don't mind swearing. I do mind text-speak/AOL-speak/MSN-speak.
IIRC there's a pretty good one for Linux as well. Might be worth looking into (if you use Linux).
SS amps (usually) don't have output transformers and running infinite load (open circuit) on them is perfectly safe. Something else went wrong.
Lowering the volume knob on the guitar will help too.
The head's gonna be running at full wattage at 4 Ohm, but the output should be split over the speakers. Still, running right on top the rated wattage of the speakers... I wouldn't do it.

You could try wiring the speakers in series and using just one of the outputs. That should be safe.
lol you should've mentioned that in the OP.

The cleans aren't the problem, it's just that there are no cleans.
I'm guessing you're talking about your MG here. The output of a SS amp really depends on the impedance of the load.
Ya, tubes are really hit and miss with Bugeras.
Quote by jpatan
I don't really see any amount of modeling helping the cleans, because anything like a pod is going to played through your clean channel. So you're kinda stuck with the clean channel you started with, and can only work from there. I'd say try the chorus/EQ method like others have mentioned.
If a POD doesn't help because you're stuck with the clean channel, why would a chorus or EQ work?
Use PNG for line drawings. Hold shift in paint to make straight lines or circles instead of ellipses.
Yeah, low E strings are pretty bulletproof...

Anyway, go for fat strings. They're awesome.
Quote by TechnicolorType
Although, I must say I was a little freaked out when I was in the actual guitar store and smelt something burning.. only to then see smoke coming out of the back.
It sounded great until that though. xD
I got home and googled it to see that it was just the clip defect or whatever.
Good thing they fixed it though (supposedly?)
Although, I think this was in like 2008 that it happened.
Yeah, these amps have had their fair share of growing pains.
Now they just need to ship them with tubes that don't like committing suicide (emo tubes? ), seems like that is the biggest issue they still have.
Quote by Gundamnitpete
Do you honestly think I don't know that?

I was comparing consumer price to consumer price because I don't know what the production cost and mark up is on jj tubes, nor a 6262.

Do you?
Relax, notice the winking smiley.
Quote by MonkeyLink07
All grounded points have to be electrically connected but you can do it any way you want.
Are pedals immune to ground loops?
Quote by guitarpatrick66
alright i know i should probably just look it up since im sure im not the first one but im freaking out and its comforting to just type it down and get it out.

i bought a brand new bugera 6260 for $350 and a guitar shop having a special. it was too good of a deal for me to pass up. it sounds amazing. yet today i turn it on and i hear some popping and it shuts off. thing is im sure its not the tubes since if it was the power should theoretically still turn on. what the heck is wrong with my amp? how do i fix it? im going to take it back to get fixed tomorrow but i want to know if maybe it could be a small thing i can fix myself and bring myself back to sanity.
You sure it's new? Anyway, a blown power tube will generally take a fuse down with it.
Quote by Gundamnitpete
The tubes in these amps are low grade. A good set of JJ's is like $150, singly know a third of the cost of this amp ISN'T tubes.
Those aren't wholesale prices.
Quote by Jaredmkl
Only in our hopes and dreams...
Don't feed it, people. It only makes it stronger.
Opening it up (getting inside the metal chassis) might void warranty. Not sure on swapping tubes, but I'm sure you can change a fuse without voiding warranty.
Quote by Adam124
Nope, first tube amp. No shops near me either that would supply them. I'm guessing eurotubes is my best bet?

Also, can I check my fuse without voiding the warranty?


It must be the fuse if the LED for the power switch isn't going on anymore? No?
The fuse is usually a symptom for a problem, an indicator. Fuses generally don't blow on their own and I'm guessing a failing power tube took it down with it. You can check any external fuses without voiding the warranty.

My advice: since Bugeras have a reputation for shipping with crappy tubes, you really ought to have a backup set of power tubes and a spare preamp tube or two around if you're gigging. Anyone with a tube amp who is gigging should, actually...
Put the old tubes back in for the warranty claim. Eurotubes is good.

Also, I suggest you run on two power tubes to save on costs. You might even be able to use two working stock power tubes if only one or two were dead. Don't forget to set half the normal impedance on the selector switch if you run on half the power tubes. Pull either two inner or two outer tubes.
Quote by IbanezPsycho
I have actually just started using this new weighted glove... The extra weights added helps my figner strength and the blades keep me from looking at my fingers when I play... You should check it out..

Quote by Adam124
It's pretty ****ing shocking considering I only bought it last week...

How do I check to see if the fuse is ok? Will it void my warranty if I open the amp up?

Considering I have a gig on the 23rd, my luck couldn't get any worse right now..
Don't you have a spare set of tubes to try?
Check fuses, try different tubes, etc. Just follow standard debugging procedure.
ITT: someone who doesn't like good advice.

Because I'm in a good mood, I'm going to do the OP a favour and give him what he wants:
Order at least 5 sets of finger weights, and use them all at once. In two weeks, you'll be able to play like Steve Vai for sure!
Because standby switches aren't actually necessary...

(source: teh wizard of toobz)
Weird. I've played my 333 at gig levels and it only gets more balls when you turn it up. Especially above about 4 on the master volume, it really starts to open up.

I can think of these things to try:
-Crank the channel volume.
-Check the biasing?

Maybe it just doesn't like the speakers.

And I play death metal too, you know.
Gain on 4 with a boost is a lot more distortion than most death metal out there.
Ah, that does make sense. We should have settings conventions for this kind of thing.

Anyway, sounds like a typical case of NEEDS MOAR MIDZ to me.
And gain on 4 is still pretty high if you're using a TS up front. I generally keep it at 4 without a boost, and about 2 when boosted. I guess I am using fairly hot pups, though.
Quote by Eskil Rask
My EQ settings are typically like this:

Lead channel, XL switch off
Gain = 4/10
Bass = 6-7/10
Mids = 6/10, 8 in a band setting
Treble = 6-7/10
Presence = 7/10

Usually have an EQ in the loop, but that's mainly just to add some low and and some crisp high end .. but technically that's scooping, and I usually don't use it in a band setting.

It could just be the cab that sucks for my kind of amp/tone preference of course, but my stock speakers are pretty muddy.

Oh and I try to always have an Ibanez TS9 in front. Settings are the standard 0 dist/5 tone/10 level.
I'm not sure how to interpret your settings... 4/10 is a weird setting...

Do you just have every knob cranked (on 10) most of the time?
I'd do it. Would be a nice backup amp.
Dingle1 has been a massive Bugera fanboy since forever, so I'm not surprised.

Sucks about the TriRecs, tho.
(what was your source, btw?)
Quote by Offworld92
Increase in wood = increase in sustain, and increase in warmth as well (read: lows/mids).
Explain please, why would more wood equal more sustain? And especially why more warmth?
Quote by coolstoryangus
If tag was to join here then

That would be fun...

Just imagine the e-dick measuring contests between him and min.
Quote by Axe-man69
NO, his 333XL head shouldnt have a heat problem. Its a PROPER head, with the chassis on the BOTTOM, unlike ours which is a pseudo-head: A chopped off combo minus the speaker.

Heat RISES remember! A proper head will have the heat rise AWAY from the chassis not INTO it.
The regulators are inside the chassis. It's pretty cramped in there and it wouldn't surprise me if they overheat with high ambient temps.

edit: I just saw this in the Sherbert thread:

Quote by gregs1020
no or i would have posted this.
Holy ****ing LOL.


I forgive you, you brought teh lulz.