Found 400 results
Found 400 results
Yeah, I'd definitely get two sets so you have a backup.I think I'm going to go ahead and buy new tubes for my 6262 then.
Should I get 2 sets of these?
Nah, preamp tubes last much longer. Get a one or two spares and you'll be fine. I personally like JJs, although I think the stock preamp tubes sound good in Bugeras (Shuguangs).Also, what about pre amp tubes? Will i need to buy a new set aswell? I don't know which ones to buy so a link from you guys would help!
Ya, definitely get a multimeter and bias probe.Will I need to bias them aswell? I haven't got a multimeter although I could probably get my hands on one.
I was under the impression Bulb switched from ENGLs to an Axe-FX...You do realize that tone comes from a Line 6 POD right? Not strictly a pedal, but I'd say it falls around there.
Although, I use an Invader so I won't judge...
Hmmmm...Mesa is pretty much the best on the market, so if you like the amp, I'd say get it.
If a POD doesn't help because you're stuck with the clean channel, why would a chorus or EQ work?I don't really see any amount of modeling helping the cleans, because anything like a pod is going to played through your clean channel. So you're kinda stuck with the clean channel you started with, and can only work from there. I'd say try the chorus/EQ method like others have mentioned.
Yeah, these amps have had their fair share of growing pains.Yeaah.
Although, I must say I was a little freaked out when I was in the actual guitar store and smelt something burning.. only to then see smoke coming out of the back.
It sounded great until that though. xD
I got home and googled it to see that it was just the clip defect or whatever.
Good thing they fixed it though (supposedly?)
Although, I think this was in like 2008 that it happened.
Relax, notice the winking smiley.Do you honestly think I don't know that?
I was comparing consumer price to consumer price because I don't know what the production cost and mark up is on jj tubes, nor a 6262.
Are pedals immune to ground loops?All grounded points have to be electrically connected but you can do it any way you want.
You sure it's new? Anyway, a blown power tube will generally take a fuse down with it.alright i know i should probably just look it up since im sure im not the first one but im freaking out and its comforting to just type it down and get it out.
i bought a brand new bugera 6260 for $350 and a guitar shop having a special. it was too good of a deal for me to pass up. it sounds amazing. yet today i turn it on and i hear some popping and it shuts off. thing is im sure its not the tubes since if it was the power should theoretically still turn on. what the heck is wrong with my amp? how do i fix it? im going to take it back to get fixed tomorrow but i want to know if maybe it could be a small thing i can fix myself and bring myself back to sanity.
Those aren't wholesale prices.The tubes in these amps are low grade. A good set of JJ's is like $150, singly know a third of the cost of this amp ISN'T tubes.
Don't feed it, people. It only makes it stronger.Only in our hopes and dreams...
The fuse is usually a symptom for a problem, an indicator. Fuses generally don't blow on their own and I'm guessing a failing power tube took it down with it. You can check any external fuses without voiding the warranty.Nope, first tube amp. No shops near me either that would supply them. I'm guessing eurotubes is my best bet?
Also, can I check my fuse without voiding the warranty?
It must be the fuse if the LED for the power switch isn't going on anymore? No?
Brutal.I have actually just started using this new weighted glove... The extra weights added helps my figner strength and the blades keep me from looking at my fingers when I play... You should check it out..
Don't you have a spare set of tubes to try?It's pretty ****ing shocking considering I only bought it last week...
How do I check to see if the fuse is ok? Will it void my warranty if I open the amp up?
Considering I have a gig on the 23rd, my luck couldn't get any worse right now..
I'm not sure how to interpret your settings... 4/10 is a weird setting...My EQ settings are typically like this:
Lead channel, XL switch off
Gain = 4/10
Bass = 6-7/10
Mids = 6/10, 8 in a band setting
Treble = 6-7/10
Presence = 7/10
Usually have an EQ in the loop, but that's mainly just to add some low and and some crisp high end .. but technically that's scooping, and I usually don't use it in a band setting.
It could just be the cab that sucks for my kind of amp/tone preference of course, but my stock speakers are pretty muddy.
Oh and I try to always have an Ibanez TS9 in front. Settings are the standard 0 dist/5 tone/10 level.
Explain please, why would more wood equal more sustain? And especially why more warmth?Increase in wood = increase in sustain, and increase in warmth as well (read: lows/mids).
If tag was to join here then
The regulators are inside the chassis. It's pretty cramped in there and it wouldn't surprise me if they overheat with high ambient temps.NO, his 333XL head shouldnt have a heat problem. Its a PROPER head, with the chassis on the BOTTOM, unlike ours which is a pseudo-head: A chopped off combo minus the speaker.
Heat RISES remember! A proper head will have the heat rise AWAY from the chassis not INTO it.