Quote by khaine31
Oh my god. I cant beleive it. I'm starting to wish i had of bought a bugera 6260 intead of my valveking vk100 for metal. Dont kill me. Its just the problem i'm having when i turn it past 3. It needs to be on about 7 for band prac to keep up with drummer. The sound is terrible. Damping sounds terrible and its not metal enough even with mids scooped and gain boost and 31 band eq. Anyone in england wanna swap a 333 or 6260 for vk100?

And this is why you do your homework before you buy. The VK is not a modern metal amp. I don't know how many times this has to be said before it sinks in.
Ethan, IIRC, the choke isn't pricey. If you're going to have someone open the amp up for the OT and bias pot, might as well do the choke too. It shouldn't be more than 15 minutes more labor.
The AR300RECS is Japanese made and a prestige model. Then you get into things like the AR305, the 5 referring to a quilted mahogany top, the AR700, the AM77, the AS83 etc. I hate to say it, but I don't think there's much rhyme or reason to the model numbers.
That explanation of the model number doesn't apply to all guitars(ie MIJ AR300recs, AS103).
Quote by ethan_hanus
Does anyone know the exact style of jacks used in the Valveking? For the inputs, speaker output, and FX loop.

They got some here, but idk if I can actually do the traditional style jacks, or have to do the PCB style, but they have Marshall 4 lug style, adn 6 lug style.

Also, where can I find that Weber OT for the 112?

I couldn't tell you about the jacks without opening the amp up and looking. They might know on the peavey forums.

The Weber OT is sold on Weber's site.
Look at any of the Artist or even the Artcore series. Not all Ibanez guitars are for super high gain music. And you don't need a Les Paul to play that music. That statement is just absurd.
Take a look at the Ibanez ART series. Should be right up your alley.
I'm thinking it's something with an original Edge. They have Floyd Rose stamped on the front. Maybe an older Proline or something like that. Get him to send you a cell pick. Chances are the trem alone is worth twice the selling price and a couple tanks of gas.
Most guitars cut the nut slots a little wide to accommodate larger strings. A 70 probably wont work though. Whatever you get, see if it fits in the slot before you string it up.
You can buy smaller ones too if these feel like they're too big for your ears.
If you cant eq the brightness out, you can swap one of the caps inside the amp to tame it some.
Or mark the position of the bridge with masking tape.
The OT will help with clarity, articulation, bass response and deliver an overall better sound to the speakers. It won't effect the voicing of the amp. It may or may not be what you're looking for. If you like gain, try the mesa mod.
The bright switch is a must IMO. I can't get the Fender-ish cleans without it. Tubes look fine. I'm using a Tung-sol as well. Have you tried the texture at A/B?
What tube are you using in V1? Are you using the bright button?
Quote by khaine31
You know. I constantly hearing about this abs fab cranked tube sound and that you get more tones from the amp.

I live in an appartment so i cant even have the amp on without the neighbours complaining. I set myself a good sound and do what i do. Come thursday, it is time to rehearse. I take my VK100 and Laney cab, etc. I have the amp on about 7 to keep up with the drum volume but it sounds absolutly terrible. It just loses its clarity and sounds horrid. It does sound better thatn my lead guitarists rig which is a pod X3 going into a Marshall jcm800 Special edition and then a 1960 cab.

Hands down, the sound from the VK100 on 1 sounds so much better. The only way I get a good sound is when I use my uber metal pedal followed by an eq pedal.

For the life of me, i dont know how anyone preferes this cranked sound.

It may be a byproduct of the work I've done to the amp, but mine sounds best in the 12 to 3 o'clock range. 1 o'clock is certainly not what I would call good tube tone.
iirc, the jacks are run of the mill pc mounted jacks. The new ones may mount the same way as the old ones. If not, you'll have to run some wires. As for not killing yourself, short out the filter caps with a large resistor to drain them. You can do this across the power tube socket pins and ground. I believe there's a how-to in the wiki.
If it's bolted down properly, that neck joint shouldn't make a difference in tuning stability. If your problem is caused by the joint, I'd look at filling/re-drilling the mounting holes.
It depends on how modern of a tone you want to get. The VK is decent for anything up to early Metallica. After that, it needs some work. The beauty of the VK is picking one up used for next to nothing and modding the hell out of it. There is a great amp in there. But, if you're going to pick one up and end up paying a tech to do the mods, it's not worth it.
Could be the solder joints. It's been known to happen on VKs.
Quote by Dead&Bloated
I got it on eBay:

What sort of changes do you notice when you install the Hot Pots II?

It definitely got connected up fine, I soldered all the wires back where they came from. I might put it back in this weekend just to record some sound checks. I'll post them up if I do.


It's been my experience that some of the ebay pots are less than fantastic. Personally, I've had great results with the Black Bear pot Small Bear sells.
Quote by greeny23
says the guy with like 8 guitars listed and no pedals.. :

Modded tubescreamer is on the pedalboard in my profile

Having torn my TS open to mod it more time than I can recall...if you're using it as a clean boost, it's not worth the effort.

Here, read this:
You're wasting your time modding it. If you think it sounds fine, leave it be.
Because too many people have watched Spinal Tap. 15 watts isn't going to be filling out a stadium, but it's enough to jam with the band.
Quote by Heavens_To_Hell

I'm looking to spruce up my amp and was planning to change the valves and speaker (I'm not sure about valves yet, but think I'm gonna go for the Warehouse 30 for the speaker).

Was gonna try and do it before a big gig I've got coming up June 13th, so two questions:

1) Is it wise to change the valves and speaker together? Or should I let each one "settle" individually?

2) Is the change likely to drastically affect my amp to the point where it's "unrecognisable"? I'm a little nervous about ****ing with my amp and destroying my tone without enough time to correct the problem.


1. It's fine to change both at the same time. Just give the speaker some break in time before your gig.

2. Neither tubes or speakers change the voicing of the amp.
Finish it off with steel wool. Should take off the roughness.
It depends on how the volume pot on your amp is tapered and just how loud 3 is. Honestly though, 15-30 watts is going to be more than enough for most people.
Tubescreamer, Bad Monkey etc etc. Basically, your run of the mill Tubescreamer sound-a-like will be exactly what you want. Read the VK thread and the VK wiki for all the tips and tricks.
Quote by Cheeto333
Ok that sounds easy enough. Do I need to remove the power tube or can I access the pins without having to take the tube out?

You can access the pins from inside the amp.
Quote by Cheeto333
Sorry this is completely new to me and I want to make sure I do it right.

So do I use the resistor to short each power tube pin to the amp chassis, or should I just use a wire?

Also, my multimeter can handle 1000V CAT II and 600V CAT III. Are the voltages in the amp higher than this?

Thanks for the help.

Solder a wire with an alligator clip to one lead of the resistor and clip that to the chassis. Use a pair of insulated needle nose to touch the other end of the resistor to the socket pins. Dont touch the chassis or any part of the amp with your other hand while you're doing this. Your DMM should be fine.
Depends on what super cheap is. The cab is fine. The speakers are muddy sounding.
I would take a look at Weber, Ceriatone, Mojotone, Triode etc. They have layouts posted for their amp kits. Might be able to find what you're looking for. It's not as simple as throwing it together and firing it up though. You're going to need to do some reading on tube amps first.
Thick leather strap. Problem solved.
The Peavey VTM60 or VTM120 would be worth taking a look at.
Have you tried Weber? They sell a selection of chassis'.