Oh my god. I cant beleive it. I'm starting to wish i had of bought a bugera 6260 intead of my valveking vk100 for metal. Dont kill me. Its just the problem i'm having when i turn it past 3. It needs to be on about 7 for band prac to keep up with drummer. The sound is terrible. Damping sounds terrible and its not metal enough even with mids scooped and gain boost and 31 band eq. Anyone in england wanna swap a 333 or 6260 for vk100?
And this is why you do your homework before you buy. The VK is not a modern metal amp. I don't know how many times this has to be said before it sinks in.
The AR300RECS is Japanese made and a prestige model. Then you get into things like the AR305, the 5 referring to a quilted mahogany top, the AR700, the AM77, the AS83 etc. I hate to say it, but I don't think there's much rhyme or reason to the model numbers.
I'm thinking it's something with an original Edge. They have Floyd Rose stamped on the front. Maybe an older Proline or something like that. Get him to send you a cell pick. Chances are the trem alone is worth twice the selling price and a couple tanks of gas.
The OT will help with clarity, articulation, bass response and deliver an overall better sound to the speakers. It won't effect the voicing of the amp. It may or may not be what you're looking for. If you like gain, try the mesa mod.
You know. I constantly hearing about this abs fab cranked tube sound and that you get more tones from the amp.
I live in an appartment so i cant even have the amp on without the neighbours complaining. I set myself a good sound and do what i do. Come thursday, it is time to rehearse. I take my VK100 and Laney cab, etc. I have the amp on about 7 to keep up with the drum volume but it sounds absolutly terrible. It just loses its clarity and sounds horrid. It does sound better thatn my lead guitarists rig which is a pod X3 going into a Marshall jcm800 Special edition and then a 1960 cab.
Hands down, the sound from the VK100 on 1 sounds so much better. The only way I get a good sound is when I use my uber metal pedal followed by an eq pedal.
For the life of me, i dont know how anyone preferes this cranked sound.
It may be a byproduct of the work I've done to the amp, but mine sounds best in the 12 to 3 o'clock range. 1 o'clock is certainly not what I would call good tube tone.
iirc, the jacks are run of the mill pc mounted jacks. The new ones may mount the same way as the old ones. If not, you'll have to run some wires. As for not killing yourself, short out the filter caps with a large resistor to drain them. You can do this across the power tube socket pins and ground. I believe there's a how-to in the wiki.
It depends on how modern of a tone you want to get. The VK is decent for anything up to early Metallica. After that, it needs some work. The beauty of the VK is picking one up used for next to nothing and modding the hell out of it. There is a great amp in there. But, if you're going to pick one up and end up paying a tech to do the mods, it's not worth it.
I'm looking to spruce up my amp and was planning to change the valves and speaker (I'm not sure about valves yet, but think I'm gonna go for the Warehouse 30 for the speaker).
Was gonna try and do it before a big gig I've got coming up June 13th, so two questions:
1) Is it wise to change the valves and speaker together? Or should I let each one "settle" individually?
2) Is the change likely to drastically affect my amp to the point where it's "unrecognisable"? I'm a little nervous about ****ing with my amp and destroying my tone without enough time to correct the problem.
1. It's fine to change both at the same time. Just give the speaker some break in time before your gig.
2. Neither tubes or speakers change the voicing of the amp.
Sorry this is completely new to me and I want to make sure I do it right.
So do I use the resistor to short each power tube pin to the amp chassis, or should I just use a wire?
Also, my multimeter can handle 1000V CAT II and 600V CAT III. Are the voltages in the amp higher than this?
Thanks for the help.
Solder a wire with an alligator clip to one lead of the resistor and clip that to the chassis. Use a pair of insulated needle nose to touch the other end of the resistor to the socket pins. Dont touch the chassis or any part of the amp with your other hand while you're doing this. Your DMM should be fine.
I would take a look at Weber, Ceriatone, Mojotone, Triode etc. They have layouts posted for their amp kits. Might be able to find what you're looking for. It's not as simple as throwing it together and firing it up though. You're going to need to do some reading on tube amps first.