Hello, I read many post here and my valveking is not a valveking anymore as i moded about everything in it. (Less than ilya-v of course :p). Thanks to every modders that permit me to do it.
I was just wondering if someone made a mod to use EL34 instead of 6l6? any info about that?
It's an easy mod. Can't remember off the top of my head what all is involved. I do remember you need to connect pin 1 of the tube sockets to ground. You'll also need to have a bias pot installed. Google 6l6 to el34 conversion. Any how-to you find should apply to the VK.
O glad to hear that Jason! Weber is getting their act together!
Just my experience but I have had 3 Weber PTs go tits up on me. Two of them had internally shorted heater wiring which caused a lovely smoke show I must add. The other one had a dead bias tap. If you do a little searching you’ll see Weber’s PTs aren’t held in high regards.
I have had no issues at all with their OTs though! They are actually quite decent and many people seem to like them as well.
Gotcha. I was speaking strictly on the tone I've gotten. I guess time will tell if the iron in my kit holds up.
Kurt, the questionable parts in their kits have been upgraded. My kit was alphs pots, carling switches, switchcraft speaker jacks, not sure what the input jacks were. My only real complain about the kit was the filter cap board design. I somewhat disagree about the iron. I've used their OT's in other amps and have been pleased.
Ceramic caps are a non issue since the kit he wants doesn't include any. Their coupling caps are supposedly Mallory clones. Not sure how true that is, but people seem to be happy with them. The resistors I can't comment on.
good to know, i have been looking on the weber forums for that cap can mod.
what exacctly does a cap can do better/differently?
why is it easier?
They don't really do anything differently. The filter board they supply bolts down to the PT mounts and it's just really cramped there. Some people have had problems making it work at all because of the room. The cap cans just take up less space and are easier to work with. As far as upgrading to a different brand of filter caps, thats a little bit of overkill IMO. I can't recall anyone on the Weber forums having problems with them. Beefier screen grid resistors would be a good idea. I used 1k, 5w resistors on mine. You may want to look into a different speaker impedance switch. The one they give you is fine, but it's complete overkill for the kit and takes up so much space that it almost touches the pins of the V4 tube socket. You'll want to buy better tubes too. The no name chinese tubes they give you are good for start/testing, but thats about it. I doubt you'll need the extra wire, my kit had plenty. If you did use it, it'd probably be decent for the filament wiring.
There's really nothing bad in those kits. The pots, switches and jacks are all name brand parts. The caps are Weber's Mallory clones and sound decent enough. Weber's transformers sound pretty nice. I guess if you wanted to go the mojo route, you could invest in Zoso caps and carbon comp resistors. Honestly, if it were me, I'd buy the cap cans just because the filter cap board is such a royal pain in the ass.
I can't read any of it, but it certainly looks decent enough. You have to keep in mind, any kit you build will be a hand wired, point to point build, so you're already one up on most production amps. I'd ask what brand switches, pots, caps etc they use and if everything sounds legit, I see no reason not to go for it.
I think the only you can even get close to modern metal with a pedal and a BH5 is to keep the volume on the amp low enough that it's completely clean and rely on the pedal for 100% of the gain. The problem then is volume...you won't have any. And it's still not going to be a great tone. The guy above nailed it when he said you can't turn an amp not meant for metal into a metal amp with a pedal.
Don't dismiss the Vypyr. It does what it does very well. Look at 311ZOSOVHJH's recent new amp thread. He's a former VK owner who just bought a Vypyr and seems to be thrilled with the metal tones he's getting.
$100 is what I paid for my Carvin 4x12. It ended up being loaded with the older, USA made British series speakers and is one of the best sounding cabs I've used. I'd find out what speakers are in it, but regardless, 100 bucks is a great deal.
what is the difference between the 6M45 and the 6M45p?
i realize that it will be a little bit more difficult to build, but as long as it isn't insanely hard, i should be fine.
regarding your comment on the cap cans, how would that be done? you would have to punch additional holes in the chassis wouldn't you? how would that change with the supplied turret board?
It's my understanding that they're similar amps. I think the main difference is the rectifier.
For the cap cans, there's room to mount them in the chassis, right above the PT. The main board wouldn't be changed. The 2 extra 50uf/50uf cans would replace the filter cap board that mounts to the PT lugs.
Yep. It came out nicely. Pretty much sounds like what I expected a JMP to sound like. If I had it to do over again, I would probably replace the supplied filtering caps with cap cans. The cap board was a bit of a headache.
The 6M45/JTM45 is a little more complicated than what you've built but not too bad. I just finished the 6M45P and it's a damn good kit. Weber ships no name Chinese tubes. They're nothing great, but serve the purpose for startup/troubleshooting.
Keep in mind the BH5 doesn't have a master volume. If you want distortion, you'll have to crank it, which will be too loud for bedroom playing. If you want cleans, you'll have to turn the volume back, which will be too quiet for a band setting.
The Weber kits are very decent. Alpha pots, Carling switches, good components all around. The transformers have a good reputation among people who have actually used them. The Orange clone kit they sell looks interesting. It looks like a big step up in difficulty from what you've built though.
I know the 1986 "Bass" circuit is very similar to the 1987 "Lead". I would think he could play through it without problems. I'd use a bass cab though. I'm not sure I'd want to play both guitars through it at the same time, if thats what you're asking. I'd also doubt that 50 watts is going to be enough for a bass guitar to cut through.
As far as plexi kits go, you're not going to find much cheaper(pricewise) than the weber. It's not a bad build at all. Just do your research before you jump into it. Make sure your soldering skills are solid. You'll also have to use a drill to open up some of the holes in the chassis.
It takes a little over a month for them to ship the amp out. If you would buy it, do yourself a favor and spend that time reading the Weber amp forums.