Check stemac, they sell enclosed jacks. You don't need one thats specifically listed for your guitar.
Quote by xjbear
i'm really liking this wah now, its smooth as silk, and only 25$ at a pawn shop. now I gotta fix my Rotovibe, know much about those? webz is limited on it, mainly its lost alooot of output. I'll try searching this forum on it too

I know the one I had was near impossible to work on.
Another thing I found today when assembling the chassis; some of the holes on the chassis are too small. None of the jacks or switches will fit without drilling the holes bigger. It's not a big deal, but something to keep in mind.
I had a 1998 model. It was a solid guitar. I enjoyed it while I owned it.
No I don't. I just starting putting the board together anyways. There's some stuff you'll have to figure out that's not covered in the layout, like what kind of grounding scheme you want to use. You also have to be ready to trouble shoot if the amp doesn't work. If you're serious about it, look at the amp building forums on weber's sight. There's a lot of good info there.
There's entirely too much hype concerning the 4558 IC. The majority of TS' tone comes from it's circuit, not the 4558, which is obscenely overrated.
I agree on the 6M45P. Should get in the 80's metal to SRV range. I'm building one myself right now. Just realize what you're getting into with this kit.
Sounds like the tube went and took the fuse out. You need to replace the tubes and the fuse.
You won't be loud in the mix, but you'll be heard. I've practiced with a 5 watt before and it was fine.
Don't open your amp up. You have a warranty. Use it.
Quote by XgamerGt04
But they don't have the same danger factor as a bandsaw! What is a project without the risk of serious bodily injury. Sure a pipe cutter can hurt, but you'll realize before your entire finger is gone.

The sting and acetone method looks pretty interesting, I might try that sometime this week to see if I can get a pretty good slide out of it.

I forgot to mention, you put your finger in the pipe while you're using the pipe cutter.
Quote by ilya-v
My god this thread is still alive and kicking!

I still love mine.

What is it with you people and band saws
Pipe cutter pictured above costs all of 5 bucks and makes a cleaner cut.
I don't think the Gibson spacing is correct. You'll need to solder the new ones on.

Ask these guys for the proper covers:
Thats where all the old Ibanez experts hang out.
Just hold up. What exactly did you di inside the amp? Take it apart and retrace your steps. It's probably something as simple as a bad solder joint.
Quote by denied
Cool! Can I just put covers on? Would that affect the tone? I've never owned an LP style guitar before.

IIRC, the old Ibanez pickups have a weird stud spacing. You can certainly find covers, just measure the spacing before you buy. You may or may not notice a subtle change in tone. Nothing dramatic and nothing that should prevent you from putting covers on.
People like the old Ibanez' for a reason. BTW, those are the stock 3 hole Super 70 pickups with the covers removed. Hold on to them if you do swap pickups. It's worth more with them. And resist the urge to drill an extra hole in the rings if you do swap them.
I don't think it would be a waste of money for you. If it wouldn't work, troubleshoot it until it does, or take it to a tech. It wouldn't be $500 just thrown down the drain.

I ordered the 6m45p a few weeks back and am still waiting on it to get here. I think that would be the kit you would want based on the tone you're after.
They're great guitars, but for some reason don't sell for much. I paid $250 for my 1770, which I consider to be a steal. The 1880's don't sell for much more. You could maybe get $400 for it.
Quote by inkandlead
What tubes come stock in there? I suggest putting JJs in the power section and then EH in the preamp section.

EH's sound horrible in the VK preamp. They also come in it stock. I'd also stay away from KT66's if you're looking for a metal sound.
^All the vk info you want is there.
Tubes can effect the sound. It's nothing dramatic. Tell your folks that tubes wear out and need to be replaced. That's normal maintenance for a tube amp. The VK thread has good suggestions on what tubes to buy. An OD is still a good idea, mandatory if you're going for a heavy, modern sound.
The TS-7 switch is fine. 4 years of regular use and the only thing it's needed was a shot of cleaner now and then. In regards to the Bad Monkey vs the TS7; both sound good on the VK. The BM is a pretty transparent boost, the TS7 adds that mid hump the TS is famous for.

And the noisy VK; it shouldn't be noisy. VK's aren't especially prone to noise. If it's used, I'd say worn out preamp tubes could be the issue. Could be a bad cable, bad power outlet, bad shielding etc. I'd try and fix the problem instead of covering it up with a noise gate.
Decent for blues to 70's-80's metal. Takes some work to get modern metal tones. Try it first and don't buy the cab. The speakers aren't that great.
With a normal pot, you could pull the casing off and clean it. IIRC, you can't do this with the crybaby pot. The Black Bear pot is 16 bucks. You can't scrape that together?
Don't buy the hot potz. Try the black bear. Its a better pot and cheaper. You could clean it, but a can of cleaner will run you ten bucks.
No it shouldn't squeal like that.
The 808 uses a very mediocre IC that just happened to be better than the horrible ICs they used at one point. Good TS read:
It still shouldn't cut bass, even without the mod. I'd do some troubleshooting before you plan any mods.
Quote by khaine31
Thanks to the severley unclear instructions on the wiki for the mesa boogie mod. I.e (10k has more gain than 22k). My amp sounds not unlike a bowl of dog poo mixed with lemonade. I know he was using examples but he was being so specific then suddenly EXAMPLE?

I'm reversing it today and replacing V2 r116 r118 and V3 r160 r161 with 0.8K (800 Ohm) resitors. The mod is going to be switchable from standard 1.5k off, to 0.8k on. I wonder if it will effect the clean channel?

The gain boost button when engaged adds an obscene amount of gain but it cuts bass too. Is there a resistor I could swap out or ...... that will not let the bass get cut.?

In a live situation there are too many pedals and adjustments to stomp on the gain boost, turn the bass up on the second eq pedal i would have to buy to go in effect loop and play at the same time.

I've scoured the net. Is there a site that outlines the resistors and capacitors on the Vk's and gives there proper names like cathode bypass reistor, etc. The schematic is useful but doesn't say what res, cap, diode does what?

Thanks for you help guys.

I think you messed up somewhere. The gain boost shouldn't add a huge amount of gain or cut bass with the mesa mod. I'd recheck your work before you go changing anything else.
You shouldn't lose the presence control.
Quote by Cap47
The Bias Mod allows you to set the idle current of your power tubes! Too cold and the amp sounds harsh, too warm and the amp sounds less clear! Not a gain function! Like adjusting the points on a car engine! Oh, does any body do that anymore! Electronics control that now!

Your exclamation point button stuck?
Quote by khaine31
cheers J. Good man. I've looked, studied and scrutinized the wiki and I found it vague at best. I've done the r100 mod which alters the gain boost. If I could find which resistor you rwefere to that alters the gain I would simply bridge it with a pot and mount it at the rear of the amp making it adjustable. Is there any chance you could tell me of a web page that details this resistor or maybe rack your obviously knowledgable brain and let me know, lol.

You said there are mods (plural) that can be done to make the gain boost more useable. What others apart from the above mentiojned r100 mods are there.

Thanks pal. Your a great help. Cheers.

PS - The r100 mod is simply bridging the resistor isn't it?

Honestly, I'd have to go back and look at the mods I've done to be able to tell you. Like I said, I'm pretty sure the resistor is discussed in the mesa how to.

There's a mod on the how-to that CharlieP posted for the gain boost. It involves removing the diodes and putting a cap in it's place. It will sound similar to the R100 mod.

I'd say though, if the VK isn't close to having enough gain for you, I'd look into a distortion pedal in front of the distorted channel of the VK.
Quote by khaine31
Oh my God. Why cant one find a straight answer on the internet. I know what bias modding is. Increasing / decreasing the voltage to the plate, etc. But what effect does it have on our valvekings. Does it increase the distortion. You know as if you had 5 more notches on the gain knob? Does anyone know of a resistor or cxapacitor swap that increases the distortion via gain knob? So I can still turn it down when needed.

Also. What does the mesa mod do. I cant get the hang of the wording on the wiki. My brain is too analytical in nature and interprets it in too many possibilities.

Is there a way I can increase the gain on the amp without using the gain boost on the footswitch?

Please help a soon to be bald musician brothers.

Bias doesn't affect the amount of gain. When an amp is biased cold(like the VK), it can get harsh. A warmer bias will help fix that.

The mesa mod will slightly re-voice the gain channel. It will be a better tone for heavier, modern music. You won't have more on tap. One of the resistors that you swap in the mesa mod does affect the gain, can't remember which off hand. Pretty sure it's mentioned in the wiki. There are also mods you can do to the gain boost to make it more usable. Again, look at the wiki.
Quote by ironman45
I'm interested in the mesa mod, but after reading the Wiki it says that this removes any low gain option. So would it be possible (and not overly complex) to put a switch in to switch between Mesa and stock? Sort of like how I saw someone made a switch between Mesa and JCM mods, but I'm not terribly interested in the JCM mod.

You still have any amount of gain available to you by rolling the gain control back, just like you would before the mod.
Quote by losing battle
2 questions. Im thinking about getting one this week here they are. Do you think a little giant can effectily power a cab with 2x12 75w celestions second do you think it. Also i play the heavy stuff nile, corpse, slayer, death ect... ect.. So i will be throwing a distortion in front of it.

It will push a 212 fine.

I don't think the LG is the amp you want though. Even with a pedal, it's not going to be well suited for the music you play.
You'll hear more of a difference switching to different values that different materials. Not saying there won't be a difference, but it's going to be subtle. If you really want to compare, you could always wire two caps with a temporary switch so you can switch on the fly and see what the difference is.
Try smallbear. Should have the correct knobs.
The VK cab is built well, the speakers suck. You could get 4 WGS speakers in the ballpark of $300.
Quote by vigstrom

Just got the VK-100 and the clean channel is fine, very fenderish.
But the gain channel, oh my... it's sort of ok on low gain settings, but turning it up it's only good for chugga,chugga.

Maybe it's C104 and/or biasing v1b and v2a too.
I'll have to draw load lines. But I will probably make the biasing switchable.

I will insert gain controls between stages v1b/v2a and v2a/v2b for testing. They may stay if I find it useful.

Next I'll have a look at the filtering caps C116, C117, C104, C106(/R106) and C149
Maybe remove all clipping diodes and make the gain boost button actually boost the gain

When I got the amp it was humming horribly, found a bad solder joint at v1 socket.

If someone is interested I'll keep posting updates of my progress.


The boost doesn't use diode clipping.

If you haven't already, get the stock preamp tubes out of there. The EHX's are horrible in the VK.