Why not? Who says you can't play metal on a semi hollow?
Half of this forum does every time a thread like this pops up. Its an annoying misconception that people who don't know what they're talking about like to spread. You can have feedback issues with a full hollow, but semi's are a different beast.
The 250 sounds a good bit different than the YJM308 despite them being similar. The 308 is very bright, very thin almost harsh. An older 250 will sound different than a newer on due to having tw different ICs. I would avoid the FX50B. I'm a big fan of the FX series, but I haven't heard many good things about it.
So I play mainly metal but I also want a good clean. So Im considering the VK 100 head. I play basically in my bedroom but this head does also small gigs? What mods should I do to it? What cab should I get to join it? maby a 2x12 as I play bedroom, but suggest differently if you feel like. Does it have good enough distortion/OD/gain with bedroom volumes without a pedal, or should I get one?
if I could get the answers for those 4 simple questions Id be pleased
The 100 is way too much amp for bedroom playing and small gigs. I'd look at the 112. Honestly though, if metal is mainly what you play, I'd look at something else. The VK will need several mods and an OD in front to have an acceptable metal tone.
Will you be doing the mods yourself? That's the deciding factor. If the only cost to you is the parts to modify the amp, then yes, it is worth it. If you're going to be dishing out labor costs, then no, it's not worth it.
Jason, so you've tried the effect of that pedal on an SS amp?
i looked at some vids and i think the liquid blues is very nice! i guess if used as a tube preamp, it would work better than an ordinary pedal for my SS amp (Frontman 212R) right?
I've never tried one. They used to have clips on their site of the pedal plugged straight into the mixer and I was pretty impressed with it. Played through the clean channel of your amp it should sound decent and close to the clips on their site. I definitely think it would sound better than putting a Tubescreamer/OD in front of a Frontman.
Not now Jason, The diodes are back in with a pot & a 470k resistor for Noise Reduction Control. Just like in the Peavey JSX.
The gain boost is on or off to taste. *I know the diodes do not have any effect when the boost is off.
When my parts will arrive I'll post a few new mods for you guys. *FX loop buffer on/off (Switchable). *Bright Switch toggle 220pF/100pF. *High Cut switch (C149) 1N/off/470pF
The front panel will be loaded with switches.
When you had them out, what was the result? My boost is still a little on the harsh side, so much that I still don't use it. I was thinking of trying different diodes/LEDs or just removing them all together.
I'm in the market for a new amp and so far it looks like I'll be getting the LG. Some questions: I know it works well with pedals. How about at lower volumes? I'm sure it sounds really mean cranked with a TS9, but what about with the volume at 2 or 3? Also, my main styles are blues (SRV, Buddy Guy) and modern heavy stuff (Horse the Band, In Flames). I'd imagine it's good for blues, but what about the higher gain stuff? Is the bottom end real lose and flabby, or is it tight?
Low volume is going to be on the clean side. Not a good high gain amp IMO. Very loose sounding gain.
Change the stock tubes before you do anything. They are turds and your lead channel's tone will reflect that. A good OD in front of the lead channel should help you get there. You're going to have to do some simple mods to the amp if you want a really decent metal tone out of it.
I'm curious about these amps. I've been looking at these and the Epiphone Valve Junior amps for several reasons: they're tube, they're cheap for tube, they seem to be very well liked and reviewed, they are single channel (I personally love the idea of single channel amps). I do have quite a few questions about them, though. I'm thinking about maybe getting a new amp sometime in the next few months. I want to know a few things:
-What does this amp do well? As in, what genres can it play? I mostly play (other than my own stuff) a lot of Tool, Led Zeppelin, and Red Hot Chili Peppers. Think it can do any of those well?
-How does this amp handle pedals? I hear some amps don't like pedals and make them sound terrible. I want an amp that can handle pedals well because I am a bit of a pedal junkie.
-Can they get pretty loud for their small size? I am looking at the 1w, 5w, and 15w models the most.
-Is there much difference between the combos and stacks? I have always used combos and I like them, but if stack is the way to go for these amps I want to know.
Any and all responses and help is much appreciated.
It can do some Zeppelin and Chili Peppers, although the voicing isn't ideal imo. I wouldn't use it for Tool. It's a very "fuzzy" sounding amp. Very early AC/DC sounding.
I'd say those tubes are stock. EH's are in a lot of them, the early one's had Sovteks. Can't speak for the power tubes, but their 12AX7's sound like hell in a VK. Bias mod is a plus and so is the speaker. But, considering you can get a modded VK for $250-300US, I'd pass, especially since you're looking for a metal amp.
Well, the gray ones sell for twice that on ebay. Sometimes more. As an investment, its worth it. As a pedal to use in your setup, it's not worth it. To put things in perspective, it's basically the same pedal as the $30 YJM308, the main difference being a couple components, or about two dollars worth of parts.
I looked around a little and but could find the answer.
Vavleking 212, I got the peavey foot swtich but can't seem to get it to work. I have it plugged it into the back slot that says, 'foot switch'. Have pushed 'in' the channel select and had tried it in the out position. But can't seem to get it to switch between clean and distorted?
From what I can tell, most, if not all of the grey pedals used the same build. It was once the yellow pedals started being released that you started to see variations using different value caps and resistors and different op amps. It looked like it was more or less the same circuit throughout though.
That layout above seems to be correct from what I can tell. The best way I can think of to determine the correct parts without buying an original pedal is to look at pictures of grey pcbs to see what parts were used. I've looked ad numerous grey pcbs on the net and that layout seems to be spot on compared to the what I've seen. Ebay is great for this since most people selling one of these are nice enough to take a nice close up of the board. Here's another layout: http://fuzzcentral.ssguitar.com/pcbs/od250layout.gif Its fairly close too, except for the fact that it calls for two 10uf electrolytic caps, where everything I've looked at says it should be one 10uf and one 4.7uf.
If you're going to spend an insane amount of cash on a locking bridge/tailpiece set, for a little more you can get the Gotoh 510 from Stewmac.com. It has locking saddles, mounts and studs and is probably the best TOM bridge on the market. The tonepro bridge is a $25 bridge with 50 cent set screws on each end. If you're looking for a quality, non locking TOM, you can get a decent Gotoh set from stewmac for 40-50 bucks.
I tried two different 741's and couldn't tell a difference. They say the vintage RCA's used in the originals sound better, but I'm willing to chalk that up to mojo horseshit. I don't have two pedals to A/B, so there may be subtle differences with various chips. I did try a RadioShack poly film .056 cap before using the "tropical fish" cap pictured above. Again, without comparing two pedals, I didn't notice much of a difference. Nothing on the PCB jumped out as seeming like low quality parts, but if you have the means, go for it.
I just want to make sure I get the right chip since I don't want to mod the PCB... Is it an LM1458CN? While I took several classes on electronic circuitry, I never really learned anything about the naming conventions for ICs...
Also, does anyone have any suggestions on where to get components? I can't seem to find any local shops.
If you're not going to use the 741 chip and modify the PCB, that chip will work. Make sure you do use the chip socket. It will keep the op amp from being damaged by heat from the iron.
Just wondering, with the Mesa mod ilya-v posted on the wiki, how does it effect the Marshal mod? What i mean is, will it still sound like a marshall? (The same type of distortion, i guess, is what I'm looking for)
I don't think the "Marshall" mod sounds that much like a Marshall. Its much crunchier, more articulate and much lower gain without the boost than the normal valveking distortion.
Not trying to be a search bar douche here, but this has been asked and answered so many times that its getting a bit redundant. All the info you could want on these is in the VK thread and the countless other threads of people asking about the VK.
I think I have to agree with Cap about running Russian tubes in V3. I'm not trying to say that there isn't any truth to what you're saying Ilya, but there are many people using Russian tubes in V3 without issues. The Sovteks are a pretty common choice among VK owners. A lot of these amps even come with an EHX in V3 from the factory. I ran an EHX in V3 for over a year without issues. If there was a serious problem, I'd think we'd have people on here more often asking why they're burning tubes up.
No I don't. I need to replace my mixer and don't have the means to make a decent clip without it. It is a major improvement, not a "I think I can hear a difference" kind of improvement. If you like the extreme brightness and thin low end of the 308, I'd leave it as is since this deletes both of those traits.
Thanks, I will try this mod on my stock YJM308 using the 741 op amp. Looks easy enough.
You know the area between DOD and the footswitch where you removed "Yngwie J. Malmsteen" would look cool substituted with a big color matching 250 decal using the same font as the Preamp Overdrive text below.
I thought about that and actually looked for some gold dry transfer numbers. I think in the end I like people not knowing what it is.
Depends on what you use it for. I you want a metal amp, there are better options. See the numerous comments from metalheads on here who bought one and were upset when it couldn't do death metal out of the box. Blues to hard rock/classic metal, its decent. Its a damn nice amp after some mods. Buy one used. They regularly go for around $250 and are all over CL and ebay. Chances are someone will have already done the much needed tube and speaker swap on a used VK.
1. Yes I can switch on the fly. 2. No, the diode removal is not necessary by I made shure there was none. I dont realy care for messing up something. in my franken amp cause I can fix it anyway. If you look closer at my previous pics theres almost no component that was cut/fryed/modded then resoldered/fixed/unmodded. I'm positively shure I like my amp now.
You'll hear in the clip when I say "full gain" I actually mean Gain boost + full gain.
My amp's been laying on my table out of the cab. I went ahead and tried your mod while it was apart. It's a pretty decent mod you've come up with. It's noticeably brighter and more articulate. Not for those seeking high gain, but a nice clear rock/hard rock sound. It does slightly remind me of a JCM. Well done.