I've never had any problems with an A-frame stand. You can use a standard stand and bend the "U" shaped part that supports the neck open so that it's wide enough to hold both necks. I did that for a while. You have to rig something up so that the guitar doesn't slide off to the sides though.
Quote by mcfc18

I have a peavey vk 212 amp, now the standard pedal to the amp to boost and change channel was working fine untill about 6 months. I started to get intermitent problems with the channel not changing and sometimes the boost pedal working and sometimes it wasnt. I thought nothing of it and asumed it must have been a fault with the pedal, i bought a new pedal yesterday, tried it and it doesnt work either. If i hit the channel/loop switch it doesnt do anything at all, if i hit the boost switch then the green LED lights up but it doesnt boost the sound at all.

Anyone know how i can try to fix this please?


Try using a new footswitch cable.
I'd guess one of you're preamp tubes got damaged on the trip to your house. Try swapping the three preamp tubes around to see if you have any changes.
Yes, paint wont stick to chrome. If you're really bent on this, strip the chrome with muriatic acid, or something similar and have it replated.
Sounds like you might have a bad solder joint.

FA, you don't need to solder the new OT. Read the how to on the wiki. Turn the amp off while in standby and it should drain the caps.
Quote by Faux~Affliction
Woo! Hurry up and test the br00tzals for me Raijouta!
That's exciting man.
So I'm stuck here. For Christmas I can either order new preamp tubes (to replace my stocks) + wah modding parts (inductor and pot), or a new OT + choke.

If you're getting this as a present, OT and choke. Wah parts are cheap and you can buy them yourself later on. New preamp tubes are half the price of the iron. Let someone else flip the bill for the pricey stuff
Quote by Cap47
I don't run any distortion. I play all clean

I think this is probably why you weren't blown away with the new OT. I noticed only minor improvements in the clean channel(which was already nice) and a huge difference with the gain channel.
I was going to ask about the choke too. When I put the choke in mine, I did notice a little more 'oomph' in the lows. If you're playing a lot of palm muted metal, probably be worth it if you didn't do it already.
Quote by Raijouta

I highly recommend this mod to anyone who hasn't done it yet. Do it now!

I've been saying this forever. Best mod for the VK imo.
There's tons of how-tos out there. Very easy. Use a makeshift double boiler and a thermometer. You don't want things to get too hot.
Well, this is new one...

Aluminum foil is your best cheap bet. Like they said above, a can is going to be a pain in the ass and you most likely cut the shit out of yourself.
Its funny you should post this, I was actually looking into building a clone of one of these in the next week or so. From what I've heard, these are really great sounding pedals.
I have to admit, mine was extremely mediocre in stock form too. I'm thrilled with how it has turned out, but if you search for my few posts in the original VK thread, you'll definitely see I wasn't too happy with the amp early on.
The BMP is another option. IIRC, its around 60 bucks and can be built to any specs you like. I have one built to triangle specs and wouldn't trade it for anything.
Quote by smokingskunk
yep I sure do have the 100W head.The site says better then anything else and I wonder if its true.Trouble is I,m in Europe and I was looking around for a European shop that sells OT's.The weight demands quite some price for shipment.

That OT looks decent. Its made in the USA. Like I said, its almost certainly better than the stock iron. Plus, $90US shipped overseas is entirely reasonable for a 100w OT. You'd pay that for a Heyboer without shipping. Try googling the name of the company that makes it. See if you can find some feedback.
Quote by Cap47
The primary impedance is low, only 1.9K . Need closer to 4k.

He has the head. 1.9k - 2k is what you want for the 100 watt VK. That OT looks like it should work. Not sure on the quality. Never heard of that brand. Undoubtedly better than stock though.
My favorites are the FX90 analog delay, FX65 stereo chorus, FX80B sustainer/compressor. The FX10 bifet preamp is supposed to be amazing. Really, 90% of the FX series is outstanding. The Gunge pedal ruined the FX name.
Old DOD FX series pedals. Outstanding and dirt cheap since people automatically assume DOD=crap. The YJM308 is a hell of a deal too if you're willing to do a couple mods to it.
No clips since my mixer crapped out on me. At 30 bucks for the pedal and 2 bucks in parts, I don't think you'll be disappointed.
And yes, Mercury Magnetics are overrated and even more overpriced.
Email Weber and ask if they ship to Europe. They have 3 OT's that will fit the head; a Heyboer, a low headroom Weber and a high headroom Weber.

Don't be too happy about finding a JJ in the preamp. JJ's some how got a reputation for being the "go to" tube. I find them to be way too dark and a little on the harsh side, at least in the VK. If your stock Ruby power tubes are getting some miles on them, new power tubes may give you a noticeable increase in volume.
I really wouldn't be looking at guitar amps for what you want to do. I'd also look at a set of speakers designed for home audio, a set of 2 or 3 way bookshelf's or towers. A pair of 12" speakers isn't really the best for audio definition. There's tons of home audio/audiophile forums out there. I'd ask around there for ideas for a cheap starter amp project.
I see this get mentioned from time to time on here and other forums, but there’s a surprisingly small amount of actual information on how to go about converting a 308 to 250 specs, other than “change the IC and a cap” and not everyone is schematic savvy enough to look at those and understand what needs to be done. The fact that people pay 500 bucks on eBay for the originals, when a $30 reissue can do the same thing backs that up a bit. The conversion is easy. Not quite as easy as the internet makes it sound, but if you’ve done work to the innards of your Crybaby or Tubescreamer, you’ll have no problems here. In fact, it’s easy enough and cheap enough, you’ll wonder why DOD just didn’t do it right in the first place. I’m not that familiar with Yngwie’s work, but if this is his pedal of choice, I can only assume that his recordings sound like jabbing a No. 2 pencil in your ear. Hopefully, those googling for a how-to will find this and I can feel like a big man for posting a how-to on the internet.

What you need:

Soldering iron
De-soldering braid
2-3 inches of insulated wire
LM741CN op amp(or a 1458 if you don’t want to modify the PCB)
IC socket
0.01uf capacitor
0.056uf capacitor

Small list, isn’t it?

OK, I’m going to assume you can handle opening your pedal and removing the PCB without me walking you through it. Lay the board down in front of you and locate C1, C2, C3 and the 4558 op amp(black box with 8 pins on the side). That’s what you’ll need to remove. Toss them in your parts box and sell the 4558 op amp to one of your mojo obsessed buddies for more than it’s worth. You then want to solder the 0.056 cap into C1 and the 0.01 cap into C3. C2 will stay empty.

On to the op amp. This is where you need to decide if you’re man enough to cut and re-route a few traces on the PCB, or just want to plug and play. The 741 is arguably the source of the original grey 250’s tone, but since it has a different pin layout than the 4558 it replaces, you can’t just solder it in without modification. The 1458 does have the same layout as the 4558 and is said to sound “close” to the 741. I haven’t tried the 1458 myself, but if you’ve gone this far, you might as well follow through and use the 741. If using the 1458, solder in the IC socket and plug the 1458 in, making sure it’s in the same orientation as the one that came out. You can now put your pedal back together and bask in the glow of almost modding your pedal to 250 specs.

Now, if you think you have the sheer testosterone to mod the PCB, read on. There are several traces you need to cut before you install the op amp. When the op amp is on the pcb, the pins are laid out like this:

Flip the PCB over to the soldering side. Remembering that the pins will be reversed with the board flipped over, cut the trace that runs between pins 5 and 7, the trace that runs from pin 8 to R5, the trace that runs from pin 1 to C5 and the trace that runs off of pin 6(be careful not to break the trace it connects to). Solder in the IC socket. You will then need to run a bit of wire from pin 6 to the top of R2(use the top hole from the C2 cap you removed for this) and run a wire from pin 7 to the top of R5. See the picture if none of this nonsense makes any sense. Insert the 741, making certain it sits in the same orientation as the 4558 was. And just like that, you’re done. Put you pedal back together.

How’s it sound? If you did everything right and aren’t completely deaf, you’ll immediately notice a profound improvement. You suddenly have low end again, and your ears aren’t bleeding from the highs. You’ll also notice a completely different character to the gain the pedal produces, for the better. Is the tone you’re getting worthy of the insane eBay prices? No. Those guys are nut bags. But it is worth 30 couple dollars you paid for the pedal and mods? Yes, several times over even.

I should note that the schematic on Fuzz Central lists C5 as a 10uf value for the 250. Stock in the 308 is a 4.7uf. I’ve looked at pictures of probably a dozen or so “grey” PCB’s while reading up on this and every grey 250 I’ve looked at has a 4.7uf there. These old pedal weren’t exactly built to tight specifications, so it’s entirely plausible that some of them had a 10uf. It’s up to you if you want to experiment with swapping it out. And if you’re feeling especially frisky, you can try different diodes in D1 and D2. LED’s are supposed to give you a warmer sound, but I haven’t tried them, so I can’t say.

Also, if you hate the DOD style power jack, now’s the time to swap it out for a Boss style. You’ll need to drill a larger hole in the case to accept the larger jack.

Finally, if you’re like me and hate using gear with someone else’s name on it, use some nail polish remover and wipe off Yngwie’s name and signature.

See the VK thread. Tubes have been discussed to death there.
I'd look into the Golden Age "hot" pickups from Really nice PAF style pickups, under $100 for a set. Have them in two of my guitars and they hold their own against the name brands.

Some form of the Big Muff would probably sound decent for you.
Thats a pretty standard bridge. Stewmac should have a replacement. Measure it and compare the specs to what Stewmac has. You can also order a replacement directly from Ibanez.
Quote by dudey5691
Wiki updated, yo.

Jason, any info on the bias test jacks? Pretty sweet idea, actually.

I'll write something up in the near future.

What mods did illya do? I'll need to find his post regarding all that jazz, soon...

I may be getting him confused with someone else, but IIRC, he swapped out a few components on the pcb and had disappointing results. He also shocked the sh!t out of himself.
Depends greatly on what style of inlays you want. A tree of life would be at the extreme end of the spectrum since it would require a lot of detail work. Simple block inlays would be much less.
Sounds like you may have a bad tube in V2. Look in the last couple pages of the VK thread and you'll see a picture labeling the preamp tubes. Swap V1 and V2 and see if the problem goes away. If so, the V2 tube is bad.
Some OT, choke and bias test jack pics...

Heyboer OT wiring:

Choke wiring:


Test jacks:
Hey Dudey, if you get a chance, remove all the mumbo jumbo in the electronic mods section about filter caps. We've figured out since then that they are not self draining.
OT info for the wiki:

Output transformers that will work for the VK100 and VK212:
Weber WOT100LHR
Weber WOT100HHR
Heyboer HYOT100

All three are sold through

VK100/VK212 installation overview:

You will need a crimping tool/wire stripper and several crimp-on wire connectors and female spade connectors. With the tubes removed to prevent breaking, pull the chassis from the cabinet. Lay it open side up and locate the wiring for the OT. The primary wires(red,blue and brown) are connected to the board with one plastic push-on connector. The secondary wires(orange, white, green and black) are connected off to the side via spade connectors. Make a note of the order that the secondary wires are attached to the board. Disconnect all of the OT wires from the board. Cut the primary wires about two inches from the plastic connector. Unbolt the OT an remove it from the chassis. Depending on which OT you bought, you may need to drill new mounting holes in the chassis. Mount the new OT and run the wires into the amp. Strip about 1/4" of insulation from each wire. Connect the female spade connectors to the end of each secondary wire and attach to the board in this order: (new wires to old wires)yellow to orange, green to white, white to green and black to black. Attach the primary wires to the on the plastic connector with the crimp on connectors and plug the wires back into the board. Reassemble your amp and you're done.

For reference, here are the stock and Weber/Heyboer OT schematics:


Primary Secondary

blue---------- X -----------orange -16ohms
red----------- X -----------white -8ohms
brown------- X ----------green -4ohms
__________X -----------black -common

Heyboer/Weber OT:

Primary Secondary

blue---------- X -----------yellow -16ohms
red----------- X -----------green -8ohms
brown------- X ----------white -4ohms
__________X -----------black -common
I took pictures of my OT install. I also took some of the choke and bias test jacks I need to put on photobucket. I'll link to the pictures as well as list the OT info for the 100/212 later tonight.
Quote by dudey5691
Alright, does somebody happen to know what all is needed on the wiki, and where I can find it?

I found my credentials.

I have added a new page to the Wiki... "footswitch information".
This should help sort out problems for those who have questions regarding them.

Also, did some revision of the title page.

Ideas for new material?

OT info.
Quote by riflesndaisies
How does this amp take pedals? does the VK 100 Head take pedals well?

I have wanted to get a tube halfstack and was debating on this or blackstar ht-5.

the reason i chose 2 very different amps is because my guitar teacher, who owns a Marshall JVM, uses his JVM in gigs (its 100w) and at home has it on the clean channel with a BOSS GT8 mfx.

I was wondering if i should get the VK100 and use the clean channel at home for this reason and then when i go gigs use the natural distortion. The blackstar would be preferably better for at home because of being only a 5w tube amp but i would like the idea of not using a PA at gigs (when i get that good)

What does anyone think.

Thanks, R'n'D

EDIT: on cosmetic mods it has nothin of the LED mod. It has the same sort of grill as on the 6505 so why does noone do it? Can it still be done?

It likes all of the pedals I use well enough. What LED mod are you referring to, changing the color?
Quote by Faux~Affliction
Wooo! NVKMPD [Mod Parts?] Haha.
Tell us the results of the new OT and choke right away guys!

The choke so far seems like it was worth it. There is hardly any hum at all now. It may be my imagination, but the amp seems a little more punchy now as well. I like.

Which pedal did'ya pick up jason?

DOD YJM308 preamp/overdrive. It's a pretty mediocre pedal out of the box, but it's the same circuit as a DOD 250. A few mods and it should be a very decent pedal.