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I'd say go for it, it's not anyone's choice but you're own on how you go about making you're guitar, yes you will just be screwing in screw's and stringing it etc but atleast it'll be something you've put together yourself and if you really like the process you can always take the next step and start to make the body, neck and even the pick ups yourself.

Dont listen to peopel who say you're not building it so get out, they're right, you're not building it, but that doesnt really matter, at the end of the day you want to put together a guitar which will be you're guitar and it doesnt matter if it's a strat or a custom guitar, after all most people on here have signature guitar's from big companies, just for the fact that they are a signature model... It doesnt matter if it's a custom model, aslong as you like it at the end of the day.

If you still go through with it, post some picture's and sound clips once you're done
You could get away with using a chisel (a very sharp one) since the humbucker would be under the pickgaurd and you wouldnt see it, ofcourse you'd need to get a new pickguard.

Also that single sized humbucker would work, although it wont be exactly the same tone as you would get from a larger humbucking style pick up.
I dont get it, do they kill the bull after or something, i'm slightly perplexed as to how this kid actaully kills bull, does he have a guillotine hidden away in that little red robe of his? =/
But steve, i used a condom!
You can do the action yourself, all your adjusting is the two screws at either end of the bridge, to lower it, it's really straight forward and it'll be good to learn how to set up the guitar

I'd definatley get the guitar, it looks really good, even with the dints, it shows it has a history and for the pick ups, well i would wait until you get the guitar and see what it sounds like, maybe you'll want pick ups with more bass or more treble, although lowering and hieghting the pick ups can change the tone a lot.
Maybe it's god way of saying.. dont play bass?
you've been de-/threaded bitch
Oh hai sam, how are you?
How much do they usually sell for brand new?

Ask him for picture's of the neck, headstock, neck joint etc etc all the major structioal parts of the guitar, if you see any cracks or deep cuts then just say no, becuase more than likely it'll break.

He means put new wiring, pots and pick ups in to it btw.
Unless your amp weighs more then 600kilos, which i very much doubt it, they will be fine.
Nice looking bass guitar
It should be fine, it's a 3 piece maple neck, I'm guessing they will have turned one or two of the pieces to give it extra strength, i think you'd be fine putting 12's on it.

Nice guitar by the way, i love the finish on it
Thank you LP addict for creating this thread, i had forgot about that page.

By the way im making a neck thru RR with mahognay, walnut and ebony fretboard, so the sound should be pretty balanced!
Just a thought hear but, how about this (I know nothing of electornic circuity, before anyone call's me an idiot)


How about having it like this Pre-amp tube > circuit > Tube > effect? > output

Have say a selecton of 3/4 pre-amp tubes which feed into the circuit, the circuit basically just routes the current to the Tube which is selected by the current setting on the circuit board controller, So you can mix any of the pre-amp tubes with any of the Tubes.

You could also have it so it can use 2 pre-amps together and route the signal to 2 diffrent tube types, that way you could have a larger selection of sounds.

Maybe have some kind of power scrubber/ booster in the circuitry which uses a software program, or maybe some kind of component level device to control the volts/ watts for each combination and component.

I'm not sure that'd even work, but just my 2p on the matter.

EDIT: wont the circuit flatten the tone becuase it'd be converted from analogue to digital and back again?

Is there anyway to boost this digital signal when it leaves the circuit, say with a set EQ circuit to boost it a little to get it back to a more analogue state, i.e. more dnyamic?


DOUBLE EDIT: Just thought i'd post this quick diagram to explain what i mean, it may be totally wrong, if it is, well atleast i had a bash at it

Well i've looked at my "tonewoods of the world book" and i'd say that's definatley brown wood, you can tell by the colour really, i'm 99% it came from some kind of tree.

Seriously now, could it be some kind of oak?
More than likley bad ram, trying getting Memtest and try leaving it over night to check your memory.

It's now either your RAM or your HDD that is bad.
I would try with just a few amps first, then if you spot any problems you can solve them and once fixed you can scale up the design easily.

Also with the tubes you could have a heatsink for each one and place them so there is a funnel like pattern and have a few silent PC PSU style fans at the back sucking out air and a few at the front sucking cold air in, this will keep the temps down.
Firstly it's not as easy as it look's, you have to be very carefull to make a butchery of it.

Go slowly and doing one fret at a time and set your self a depth before you start

You could use files and sand paper.

However fine files take a very very long time to get through the wood, You could try using a coarse file then a fine file to neaten it up and then go over the fretboard with 240 grit and then something like 1500, make sure you masking tape your frets before hand
The bet is £50, was going to be £300, but i dont think either of us would part with that kind of money haha.


QUESTION TIME... again =/

Ok so i've been researching all over the place and so far, i've figured i would do a 0 degree angled neck, to acheive this i would slightly shave the top wood off the body section, upto the neck and then i would recess the bridge.

Ok so, so far i have this worked out;

A wrap around tailpiece with a minimium hieght of 15mm recessed into the body by 15mm with a carve infront of it so i can easily put string's through it.

Now if the top of it is level when it's lowered down i can raise the bridge so it is on par with the fretboard, therefore i wont need any level of degree on the neck, I'd also shave the top of the body by 3/4 mm's.

In the diagram below you can see the routed recess for the bridge (note, not final plans).


So, would this work out to plan, or am i missing something here? =/



And i feel like im spamming my own thread =/ but i really would like to have everything nailed down before i go off on a wood chopping ramppage
Checking the nut would be the first thing, making sure it's probably seated and filed for the strings, also try lubing it up.

Apart from that you could heighting the pick ups a littel so there closer to the strings, but that'll change your tone abit.
Use this to calculate it, I'm also making a neck thru that will have a 0 degree's neck with a 13 degree's headstock for adding string tension, i'll have to recess the bridge though.

But you can shave the top of the body and have the neck section higher by a few millimeters and then with the added fretboard height, your looking at a bridge recess that shouldnt be much of a problem.

http://www.tundraman.com/jigs/NeckAngle.CFM
Not much of an update really, waiting on the quote for wood and purchasing real RR plans soon!

But for now i've been making some mock up plans, since im going to make my own heel shape, cavity route and jack output. Also i'll be slightly recessing the volume/ tone knob since it's taller than your standard knob. it's rough, i.e. scale is not perfect, but it gives me a good enough idea of the overal shape's.


(i've had rhino for like 5 minute's, so it's not as good as it could/ should be, but meh)

Note the large cavity section, i'll route this large incase i want to put electronics in it later on, i.e. onboard distortion, over-drive etc which require a battery, i should have enough room in the cavity.

Also i'm going to be using a fender strat style output jack and mount it on the inside of the wing pointing down, so if i accidently stand on the wire the wire will just pull straight out, instead of damaging either part.

Update on wood! i can get mahogany and walnut, it's abit diffrent from wenge, but im sure it'll look just as good.


Is that it?

I'd take the blue over that to be honest, but it's your choice, i hope it's a nice playing guitar
I think it'll look better if you routed out a load of of channels running through the guitar, like have a main chamber at the back of the guitar and then maybe rout out a series of channels going around following the line of the guitar and then rout channels that go around the pick ups and inbetween the bridge and controls, then when you have the two liquids in it it'll flow through the chambers when you move it, which will look pretty good i think.

Also it mean's you will only have to rout one big chamber at the back and then little (i'd say 3/4 inch) channels with the router. plus you'd still get some sustain as there would be solid blocks of plexiglass inbetween the channels


EDIT: also some kind of flourescnt oil material would look amazing, if your playing a gig and it's fairly dark you'd see all the flourscent oil flowing through the guitar
Right, distortion circuit.

either:



Look for "QDD"

onboard active 5 level distortion (will work with passive pickups) need's battery though.

Or this

Black Ice

They will both work on bass guitar's, about £20'ish each, but ofcourse with the first one you'd have to find a place for the battery and do a little bit of rewiring.

Also you could get a dual shaft tone/ volume pot so you could use the current volume drill hole for the volume/ tone pot and then the other hole for the QDD distortion and then maybe route for holes for a 4 band EQ. Or you could just install the black ice and use both the current holes with normal pots.

About the finnish, how about installing a black/white/black pickguard and painting the body an arctic white with black hardware and painting the headstock to match the body?
Well i'm not sure how much you want to spend, but you could get new electronic's, i.e. pickups, tone/ volume pots and then try installing a bass pre-amp and maybe a distortion knob/ circuit and try scalloping the fretboard?

what colour do you plan on finishing it?
I'm not sure if this matters much, but it look's like the center line will be inline with the wall of the neck pocket, would that effect the stabality in anyway?

Like mintsauce said, you could cut the block off from the bottom left hand corner and glue it where the upper wing will be.
This look's really good, i really like have you posted all the drawing's and plans with measurements, i'm planning my own RR style guitar and that is extremley usefull information, thank's

I'm looking forward to more updates.

*subcribed*
Stop being assholes, the guy is simply asking what brand's are good for use on guitar bodies, LP addict, your right they do have stickies at the top, which do tell you what paint/ clearcoat to use, but unless you know what your looking for, it's hard to find the information.

So anyway, to the TS.

You'll also need some sanding sealer if your planning on taking the paint off down to bare wood.
You can do exactly that, just make sure that once you've took all the paint off with the belt sander that you go over it with normal sandpaper to get rid of any dips/ mountains that maybe created by the belt sander, it'll be hard to see with bare wood, but you'll notice it with gloss clear coat on.

for the clearcoat your local craft/ supply shop should stock it, if not you can find it on most hardware and supply websites, this is what you should be looking forLink

It'll be about $20 i'm guessing and that should be enough

Hope this helps.
I wouldnt use paint stripper or a heat gun to remove the paint, you'll either strip the binding or melt it.

I would just use some very coarse 60 grit with a sanding block and go at it until you get through the clear coat and paint. I'm not sure if roughing up the clearcoat and then painting directly onto it would be any good, best not try that.

But like i said, dont use the heat gun or pain stripper on it, just incase you ruin the binding.

Personally i think it'd be nice if you left the back and the neck of the guitar white and had just the front painted, it'd be alot easier aswell.

when painting, even if using a brush, cover the binding with masking tape and cover the sides of the fretboard with masking tape and place news paper down the center and make sure it's all sealed, no holes for paint/ clearcoat to get in.


EDIT: any kind of paint like this should be fine, you'll need a water based sand sealer aswell by the way, if you can get the sealer, paint and clear coat water based you should have any chemical reaction problems or paint running problems, aslong as you leave it to dry properly.

Link
you could try spraying the sky/ clouds, that'll be quite hard, or you could just have it black and fade to a blue around the earth, so it look's like the earth from space, with the blue aruao(spelling?) around the earth etc.

I like that design by the way, maybe have the sun instead of the earths crust/ core?

And yes, EJD is right, dont forget sanding sealer if you take it to bare wood, thanks for that
No problem, i havent seen that design, but i will go check it out, also i'm not sure if you have open humbuckers, but a pair of chrome plated humbuckers would look really nice on that design.

I'd say no less than 9 coat's of clear coat, 3 coats a day, 1 to 2 hours between each coat over 3 days (i got that from lumberjack i think) and then leave it for like 2/3 week's to dry solid all the way to the base, then just buff and polish it.
It's probably the same(ish) still mast produced, more than likely in china.

Unless your current jack give's you a lot of crackling noise and is slack, then i would just leave it. It doesnt effect sound, it does effect sound qaulity, but only to a certain degree.

I'd just keep it in a draw incase you ever need it in the future.
Nice design.

About stripping the finish, either heat gun + scraper + sand paper, or you could just use paint stripper + scraper + sand paper, they will be the quickest way's to strip it.

About painting, personally i would just use some acryllic paint (i think that's the right type, you know the paint that you can get in little metal tubes and it comes out like toothpaste), then i'd go over the top with an acryllic water based lacquer, or you could use nitro, but im not sure if that would make the paint run and/ or react with it.

Also sand it as flat as possible and spray a nice coat of white primer onto the body and sand it smooth, but maker sure not to sand through it, then go about painting it.

by the way the nitro will fade over time and i think go slighly yellowish, it'll look like an old instrument after a while (with fade marks from body contact etc) where as the acryllic laquer wont fade (as far as i'm aware).
Some guy said dont replace the wiring and pot's, if you dont do that, atleast find out what capicator your tone pot's have, 0.22 will make it more bright 0.47 will make it more bassy/ mid and any higher will give you really dark bass tone, with pretty much no highs. Or you could just leave capictator off the tone part, it'll make the tone part useless, but you'll get the true tone from the pick ups, that could be a good/ bad thing