It's really hard to see what actaully keeps those on.
If you can't click them back on, what i would do is get some superglue, (make sure it's not like super industrial strength, just incase you ever need to take it back off). Dab the little slot(s) on part that is on the neck (the rectangle bit and, i think the two circle slots) and then place and hold the casing on for about 5 minutes and making sure it doesnt move, that should do for a quick fix.
Get new pickups, tone pot's and capacitators for it (0.22 will be more bassy, 0.44 will be more trebly, or so i've been told). the capacitators effect the tone alot so make an educated purchase about them.
Pick ups, well i wouldnt go and purchase some gibson official picks ups for $200 etc, i would purchase some other kind of picks up, maybe GFS or something that is a little cheaper, rewire it all up with new pots and good wiring, then get a new (very solid, good bridge and nut) the better the nut and bridge, the more sustain you'll get and the less time you'll spend tuning etc.
It look's good so far, i'm not sure if you'd even consider this, but how about a single coil on an angle right up against the neck angle, maybe a rail pickup or a noiseless lace pick up, something along the the lines, i think that would be quite unique.
So i've got my final scale length it'll be 25.5 inches and i've got my fret spacing worked out (or calcuclatored should i say) im just going to use a jackson rhandy rhoads plan from guitarplansunlimited.com, it'll be about £10 or something, then i'll just tweak the plans to fit my design, the pickup/ bridge will stay in the same place as the plane, just the body will have a slight alteration.
I've also selected some final hardware, i'll spare all the details becuase i already have a few diffrent ones in the thread =/
The pick-up will be GIOVANNI Zebra (matched, other will go in LP) 60's spec vintage PAF 8.5K alnico 5 magnets & 42var copper wind. Also i'm having a tone and volume knob on the guitar, but it's in one knob, so i'll be able to control tone and volume from one knob (seperatley ofcourse), the pot will be coupled with a 0.47 @ 400v capacitor, i'm under the impression that that'll give me a more bassy/ fuller sound?
I've priced it up so far and WITH OUT THE WOOD!! it comes to about £500 =/
But i have a few months so hopefully i'll get there.
Pikka bird: your right, it's from a RR not a king V, im not sure where i got that idea from =/ so it's a custom RR really haha. I wont be doing a slanted fretboard, well not at the moment
Hey thank's for all the feedback and comments glad you's like it!
I agree about the neck pickup it look's out of place, so i'm only going to do a bridge pick up, which means only 1 volume knob (i could do a tone knob i guess, but i like the look of just one knob).
Thanks for the tip about the wood, i think i'll use mahogany and the black heart, depending how cheap i can get it, i'd settle for even alder with wood stain if i cant get a hold of the above wood though.
Thanks for pointing that out about the knobs/ pots i wouldnt have even though about the closeness of them if you's handnt said, that'll save me some time
I used PS for the design, a few pictures of some red mapel/ wenge and then took an image of a king V and make a rough template then just started added bits of hardware and adding shading etc etc. I have a new design below, this should be easier to make with the 1 pickup since i'll only need to wire like 1 pot and then straight to the out put.
The bridge is a shcaller roller bridge with fine tuners, for $95 it isnt bad, i have a roller nut on it, but you cant see it very well on the picture. Also new neck design with no inlays, i dont think i'll be able to do decent inlays so it'll just be side markers, i've tried to show the scalope on the fretboard, but it's quite hard to see.
Anyway, thanks for the tips so far
I have a question about tools, since i'll be buying them all brand new.
So far i've worked out that i'll need;
- Jig saw - drill (with drill press thing, so i can get perfectly straight drill holes) - router - power sander
- soldering iron - sanding blocks/ pads - hammer for knocking in frets?? (or i might just buy a fretboard with frets already done?) - clamps/ vices
There is some more but i cant think right now, i dont have access to a big workshop or any fancy tools so i'll be doing everything on a bench with a power tool or with a hand tool, it'll take longer but that's all i can do really.
Direct mounted pick ups btw
EDIT:: the bet is for £50 with sam b, he wanted to bet £300..
The specs have changed since i made the image, but you get a rough idea of what i want it to look like.
I'm not planning on spending alot on this build, i'll try to keep it under £600 (all guitar parts, wood + tools)
Could anyone suggest a decent place to buy wood from, im not sure what would be best suited to this, i want a wood with no so much grain (like in the image) but a wood that can be stained a very darkish/ black colour and a wood that can be stained the orangey type colour and that is strong enough for a neck thru, yet wont break the bank
Nice spec's, how about going for a modded les paul shape, or if that isnt your taste how about an SG with deeper cut aways to easily access the 22nd fret and maybe give it a deeper carving + plus elbow carve so the mahogany comes through the maple slightly
I would invest the money in another amp or if your set on pick up's i'd go for something like GFS pickups as those pickups are extremley expensive and imo not worth putting into a squier, although it may be a good guitar, but it just wouldnt make sense to spend all that money on them.
Thankyou for the help lumberjack that is extremley helpful
I just have a few more question's, they may be stupid question's but i've never even worked with staining wood before and it's better to be safe than sorry
For the stain i'll be using this; Chestnut Spirit Wood Stain Rosewood - 250ml
It can be thinned with lacquer to get the right colour, ill be using this lacquer;
Chestnut Cellulose Thinners - 500ml
So after sanding the body until i have raw wood etc i would mix the two products above with each other and try testing it on wood until i get the colour i like, then coat the whole body in it (i read that i should coat it dark, sand down and then recoat lighter)
Then i can apply sanding sealer, which will be this;
water based Chestnut Acrylic Sanding Sealer - 500ml
Then i sand it all smooth to say 800 grit and then i could apply this;
Water based Chestnut Acrylic Lacquer - 500ml (applied with a brush)
and then do as you say, give it a few coats over 3 days and leave to dry.
Then finally sand it with say 1200-2000 wet and then buff and polish.
I'm sorry that this is going over what you've already said, but im just wondering (and nervous) if these products will all work together, with them being water based, except the stain which is spirit based.
Also i cant actaully find a shop that sells minwax in the UK, i've looked at all the shops that i know/ trust and the above products are the probably the best i'm going to be able to get with out spending a fortune (i'm doing this with a very limited budget).
I'm about to start sanding my guitar body down, once i've done that i want to stain it a dark mahogany colour or walnut and then give it a coat of clearcoat.
I'm puzzled though, i'm not quite sure what i need, i've looked through the ulimate finishing thread and i've read about taking off the current paint with paint stripper and then sanding etc etc and then applying liquid woodstain to the body.
So would this be the workflow;
As you can probably tell, first time doing this, so im not sure exactly what items to purchase and what is the best way to do this.
Also the guitar currently has a thick black layer of polyutherane paint on it with clearcoat, i'm guessing the wood would have been treated already, would i still be able to use water based stain on it?
I just read something about downloading torrent files and that RIAA cant monitor your internet in this thread.
That is true, they cant monitor your thread and downloading a torrent isnt illegal, it's not a copyrighted piece of information, that would be like aquiring let's just say an order form for a weapon, until you actaully posses that weapon nothing has been done. Now if peopel say well the law see's that you are getting a gun, it doesnt work like that. because the way it work's is that you have an order sheet for a gun, but until you actaully have what is classed in the eyes of the law as illegal then they cant arrest you for possesing a lethal weapon/ gun, becuase you dont.
Anyway the RIAA and a few other lesser known organsations setup horny trap torrent's and download servrs, this is one of the ways they can find out how people are downloading and uploading files.
It works like, a computer will download a torrent from a honey trapped/ rigged server, this torrent will usaully have one of the main servers (the servers that direct the torrent traffic) pointing at the rigged server, which is run by the RIAA etc and hosts the illegal material, once they know the computer is downloading the illegala material they can take all the information like IP address, location, ISP provider and other various details and either provide it straight to your ISP or to a court of some kind.
Either way they need to understand that there are people out there way smarter than them who will constantly find better ways to illegal share files freely. They cant really stop it, unless the internet became something like Xboxs live system, where your basically tied into on a few access paths and you cant stray outside to any other content.
But i cant see the internet going that way since it's a large mesh of servers and hosts etc that can only be regulated through the main hubs, ISP's, but they would lose most of there customers, unless it was law and then everybody would just suffer the **** imposed becuase some greedy business men wanted a few more million dollars for the **** they produce.
This is how it work's, or atleast how i think it work's.
You're ISP monitors all traffic that is coming/ going from your PC, they can see all the IP addresses of the servers which you connect to, they can also see what ports your computer is using, i think web browsers use port 80, or something along those lines, so large amounts of dating going through that port is probably acceptable, however file sharing, torrents and P2P networks use specific ports on your PC (usaully a range of ports, sometimes the sharing software selects random ports) however your ISP will have blocked this range of ports from access all together, or maybe just throttled it down to say 2/kbps.
So basically your ISP knows what servers your connecting too (IP addrsess and website/ host name) and the ports that your computer has open and is using.
so all technical stuff aside your ISP will know if your downloading P2P files (it usaully only worries about massive uploaders though, since that slows there network down and the telephone exchanges more) they will then send you out a notice with your monthly build or whatever saying that they have information which suggests you are illegally uploading/ downloading copyrighted materials and then they will probably warn you that if you carry on this behaviour that they will take further action disconnect you or report you to the RIAA, which i dont think they would, but you never know. depends how much they get paid for this.
But you could just tell the ISP that your uploading/ downloading data for your work which you do, for example say you do photography work, tell them your uploading large uncompressed images for clients and/ or other photographers. they cant ask for prove since they dont have the rights to view whats on your computer and they couldnt take any further action.
by the way an uncompressed HD photograph, in say PSD format with a few layers could easily be 200MB, and an album in MP3 format is usaully about 95MB, so it could all add up
For the neck, if you decide do to a bolt on i was having some thoughts about this, i'm not sure if either of these would work.
But hopefully one of them will be usefull.
I'll explain them;
A. you have a 4 bolts (only 2 shown) that go from the top side of the body right through to the neck joint, you'd have 4 holes that the top of your guitar, or if you really wanted to you could cover the holes with wood filler, but i wouldnt be too keen on that idea. this probably wouldnt give you that many options when making the guitar since you'd have the 4 bolts going through the wood into the neck joint and you'd still need abit of a heel.
B. this would have the 4 bolts from the bottom, with the heads sunk into the wood with an additional 2 bolts coming into the neck joint from the side, they would also be sunken and flush with the wood. the body would then be curved upwards to meet the heel of the neck to form a smooth joint, also the angled neck at the end would be sqaure, but it would be angled down and sanded so the bottom (high E string etc) would have frets but the top (low E side) would have no frets and the fretboard would be sanded down on an angle until it meets the neck wood or wood of the guitar.
I'm not sure if either one of those would work, but i think if you could pull something off like that it'll look very nice, much more advanced that a neck through in my opinion, plus if you ever break the neck you could always make a new one, although it'd probably be quite the task
This sound's like a very good build, be carefull not to make it look OTT though, an OTT guitar can look pretty bad imo. But i've seen your previous build's so no doubt this thing will look extremley good.
You could purchase a cheap 1 1/4 to USB audio interface, you can get them for about $40, then you get hold of guitar rig 3, amplitude or any other app that has guitar modelling software built in (i know people will shun this, but you can get guitar rig 3 on the sly from a torrent).
This way you'll be able to get a really nice clean (no interfence) line into your computer.
There will be alot more pressure on the body from the bass string's than there is from guitar string's. maybe you could make the center of the guitar from a strong wood and use the pine for the wings of the guitar, that way, the bridge and neck would be attached to the hard centre wood and there wouldnt be much pressure on the pine.
I haven't had any experience with the pickups or the SX basses, but i have also heard that they are of very good qaulity, you could alway's send it back if you didnt like it, it's the law
for the template there is a thread on these forums, called "ultimate template thread" or something like that, you'll find everything you need in there.
About glueing the wood, you'll need some long clamps so you can clamp the wood together tightly and also you'll need to make sure that it doesnt move in any direction, vertical and horizontal while the glue is drying, so placing a heavy object onto of the wood while the clamps are on would help. I cant remember the name but i think alot of people here use some form of very strong wood glue, perhaps tightbond?
If you're on about the pickgaurd it's £53 pre-wired with the 3 pick-ups, 3 pots and 1 switch, i dont think that's too bad, plus it mean's i dont have to worry about me screwing up any of the soldering/ wiring on them. I only really need the soldering iron for the lead to the output and to the ground. My next project is when i'll do all the wiring by myself, but for now i'll just use a pre-wired gaurd
Finaly i'm getting round to mod my old encore strat that i've had lying around for about 4 year's now...
I've taken it all apart and i've noticed that it's routed for S-S-H (H being at the neck position) that seem's abit odd to me, anyway i've decided since the Bridge position is routed for a single coil that i'll just stick with S-S-S.
This is the item's i'm going to buy for it soon;
(my budget is around £150 for the whole thing)
Arctic white body Arctic white neck/ headstock with rosewood fingerboard/ 22 jumbo steel frets Satin chrome spread roller tremolo bridge Black pre-wired all rail pickgaurd S-S-S (output is 9.5k, vintage wound black/ silver) Nickel fender replacement kluson style chrome tuners (6inline) Chrome fender jackplate Copper clad shielding (front and back)
I'm not sure but the pickups in the pickgaurd are either, 14k, 9.5 or 5.8k vintage wound, i'll ask about that before i purchse, although all i know is that the higher rating means higher output right? what else would this effect?
Rough idea of what it'll look like when finished
Total so far is about £95 for all the guitar part's, i still need to include the soldering iron, sandpaper, arctic white spray paint and the clearcoat.
Also if i sanded the top later of paint on the strat until it was very rough could i then start applying the white spray paint over the top of it?
Also any recommendation's on part's/ paint etc would be nice.
It depends alot on the amp, but also the speaker size/ type and the wattage of the amp.
If you just one something cheap try to get atleast a 10" speaker, your best off aiming for a 12" but they might cost quite abit more, also wattage, you want something that you dont need to crank even for low volumes, something like 15-20 watts will do fine, that way you wont be pushing the circuit to it's limits.
I cant really recommend any named brands though, sorry.
I'd ring him up, the conversation would go like this...
Me: hey friend: Oh hai thar Me: i heard about your guitar friend: yea if i ever find out who stole that i'll hunt them down and rape them Me: oh really now? friend: damn right, that guitar was everything to me Me: .... and you'd actaully rape them, i mean even if it was a guy friend: hell yea man, espeically if it was a guy, i'd teach that bastard a lesson Me: ...you serious, i mean like you'd definatley do it. friend: yea man, i already said i would! Me: awesome friend: what?! Me: meet me at my place in 40 minutes... bring some lube friend: .... me: *hangs up*
I hear tales of old and of the forgotten past, tales of people who did not last, for they grew old and withered away, a generation of old, past and forgotten by a generation of today, they told tales of epic, when wild men roamed the heather, they told tales of epic, when men could stand real weather.
Firstly i'd take a picture from a few angles, take it into PS or i may do it for you and change the colour of the top to white and see what it look's like, then only if your 100% sure about it, i'd start to sand off the top, but very lightly if the top is a veneer you might sand through it, and that wont look good.
After that i'd just stain it and then clear coat it and hope for the best
I hate noob's who get all defencesive when you tell them about your amazing gibson/ fender/ customer guitar and how it's much better than there guitar and they try to make up stuff becuase the probably feel put down by your stupid remarks.
I dont hate starter's who maybe dont have much a clue about gear, but who think there gear is good, after all if you buy something you buy it becuase you think it is good, you dont know about the higher models, wood qaulity, pickups etc etc. You think, it's a guitar and it looks like a fender clapton plays or what ever so it must be good, but then if a person says ohh that's **** becuase it doesnt have fender on the headstock and it was cheap so it's ****, people are obvs going to try and argue back, there not going to sit there and say ohh yea i agree with you, your amazing, with all your fancy gear.