So the DI signal would just be the guitar running through the preamp section, right? Would that sound decent running through a cabinet emulator, compared to the power amp'd signal? Or would it be more like a track to put behind everything as an ambient track?
Sorry for all the questions, as you can see I am a bit of a noob when it comes to recording. Just experimenting as to how to get the best sound, y'know?
...to tighten up my distortion channel (Mesa F-50). I tried my friend's tubescreamer in front of it the other day and absolutely loved the effect.
My question is, would a Fulltone Catalyst achieve the same effect with the gain backed off? I've been told it does clean boost, overdrive, and fuzz tones quite well, but I'd be mainly using it for the overdrive. The clean boost and fuzz just sweeten the deal, though I'd just fiddle around with them for kicks.
Should I stick with what's tried and true and get a tubescreamer clone of some sort instead?
As you can see, everyone has their own opinions. Let me throw in my two cents:
I've used the following brands: -GHS -D'addario -Ernie Ball -DR -Elixir
Nothing has lasted nearly as long, tonewise, as the Elixirs have. They definitely stand out from the rest of them as well: the tone is very bright and the strings are slick. This may or may not be desirable for you; I happen to like them like this.
Are they worth the extra cash? I'm horrible when it comes to changing my strings regularly, so I use them long enough to justify the extra money. Your situation may not be the same.
If you dislike the feel/tone/price of Elixirs, I'd probably go with the Ernie Balls. They're very cheap and seem to perform similarly to the rest of the choices.
I sawed off a piece of copper and dropped it into the ferric chloride to see if the barkeepers friend was really the culprit. An hour later and it's the same result as the piece that got rubbed with the polish, leading me to believe that it could be a problem with my materials.
So I took the copper out again and looked at it real close. Turns out you guys are most likely right--the board is covered in some cloudy transparent white stuff that I can chip with my fingernail (probably a reaction of the etchant and the cleaner). Underneath is the copper, almost completely untouched.
I'd hate to have to redo the PNP, or even worse see this board go to waste altogether...do you think I could get by just scraping off the cloudy stuff, or do I have to go through the whole PNP process again?
Noobie pedal builder here. I decided I wanted to make my own pcb for my first build, and up til now it's been a breeze.
I got my copper and ferric chloride at a local place called Blick Art and cleaned the board with a polish called Barkeeper's Friend, which I then applied press and peel blue to. I then submerged the board in a liberal amount of ferric chloride and put my plastic container on some hot water in my sink to keep it warm.
Problem is, I've been waiting for almost 2 hours now and the board has not changed color at all since about 20 minutes after I started the process (it is an orangish purple depending on what light you use). I took it out of the solution just to make sure; the color is definitely far from the yellow/green in the pictures of the tutorial I looked at.
Did I do something wrong UG? It's worth noting that the board is about 3 mm thick and that it has a layer of green stuff on the bottom. I also tried to add more ferric chloride with no result.
I own it and I agree with Kino: some of the models are very impressive, whereas others are disappointing. If I were in your shoes, I would look into the DSL (or another tube amp depending on your taste in music) for gigging. It's just not very practical to lug around an expensive laptop through all of your gear and whatnot, especially in a basement show situation or similar where your set is short, the time you have to set up is shorter, and you have the risk of getting your fragile laptop kicked over.
wow. you know, ive never had to restart my tube amp once cause it locked up when i was playing. can't say the same about GR3.
A valid point, but I can honestly say that GR3 has never made my computer lock up. Maybe it's because I use a firewire interface that is specifically designed to handle the demands of GR3, or that my system is decently fast.
When I said reliability, I was referring to overall lifespan. With rigorous use and little to no maintenance, I do not expect my tube amp to last for more than two years, whereas I expect this computer to be able to run 10 years from now with little to no maintenance if need be.
Dunno if you've settled on your guitar rig vs marshall debate yet, but I figure I'll put in my two cents.
I run my guitar through a cheap firewire interface and there is virtually no latency whatsoever in guitar rig. If you're having latency problems, my best guess would be that it's because you are running your guitar through your computer's low quality onboard sound card that does nothing more than route the signal to the CPU to process, eating up your system resources.
The main argument for getting guitar rig would be flexibility. Dozens of amps and effects as you probably know; fantastic for bedroom practice, but imo the tones are not gig-worthy.
This is in contrast to a tube amp, which will fulfill its duty of producing one or two specified tones, but not much else (of course there are exceptions).
Arguing that the computer is more likely to crash is absurd imo. If there's one thing that digital trumps over analog, it is that it's far more reliable.
Sorry for all the noob posts lately. I don't have any cool audio friends like the inhabitants of R&R.
Okay, so in accordance with your guys' advice, I got a Presonus Inspire firewire interface. Problem is, my computer won't detect it. I downloaded the Vista 32-bit driver from Presonus.com, went through the setup, and when prompted, plugged in the inspire. The light went blue for 2 seconds (it seems to do this every time I plug it in) and went red due to lack of sync. I hit the "next" button on the setup, where it proceeded to try and detect the interface...then the "plug in the interface" dialog came up again. This continues in an infinite loop until I manually exit the setup.
I've tried driver installation on different firewire ports, a pci firewire card, and a whole different xp machine. All produced the same results.
Do I have a $150 paperweight? Am I doing something wrong? Is there some kind of magic button I don't know about (I checked.)?
that's because you only have to buy cables once. you never buy cables again idiot.. and they are not 60 bucks.theyre like 40. if you want new cables, cut it in half with scissors and return it for a new one. it;'s that simple. i'm not even exaggerating. unlimited lifetime warranty. as in, break it however the hell you want it and get a new one. that's why it's "overpriced" youre paying for more than only one cable. it's a lifetime supply of cables.
It's important to note that Monster Cable didn't invent the lifetime warranty: there are many brands that do the same for much cheaper. I only own 2 brand-name cables that I picked up at my local store, but both of them have lifetime warranties and both are working flawlessly after a year and a half of rugged usage.
Personally I've been making cables on my own recently. If they stop working (which they have yet to do) you just resolder them and call it a day. Generally, though, you'll have to buy in bulk for it to be profitable.
Shoot, I can't believe I didn't see that the inspire had phantom power. Well, that seems like my final decision for an interface then.
I've been told that Mackie has no plans to make Vista drivers because they've apparently lost too much money making the Satellite.
As for looking into studios--I'm not looking into making platinum records for now. I'm just looking into getting some decent home recording done for the most part. In the future I will look into professional studio work.
Would it be a smart decision to go about getting a single 990 and an sm57, the former for vocals/acoustic and the latter for mic'ing amps?
My music situation has changed dramatically in the last few months and I’ve decided that, with my guitarist, we need some basic recording gear. This is presenting some problems, however, in that we’re still in high school and lacking money.
What I have: -32-bit Vista computer with USB 2.0 and firewire -Boss GT-8 -Reaper, Audacity, and basic software knowledge -about $250-300 (read: ebay)
What I need to record (ranked from most to least important): -distorted guitar from a tube amp -vocals -clean guitar from a tube amp -acoustic guitar (not necessary) -no acoustic drums for now. It’d be nice to prepare for them in the future, though. -all of this is recording only. We don’t need them for a live situation.
What I need to get: -interface (preferably firewire, with 2+ microphone preamps, phantom power/midi would be nice) -microphone that records all of the previously stated instruments
What I’ve considered for an interface: -Presonus Inspire—compatible with Vista and firewire, but no phantom power or midi -Mackie Onyx Satellite—not compatible with Vista=bust
What I’ve considered for a microphone: -SM57—good for mic’ing an amp, not so much on vocals/acoustic guitar -SM58—vocal microphone, not as good for anything else -MXL 990—I’ve been told it does everything, but no phantom power on the inspire=bust
-semi-thread hijack- Once you import your midi from guitar pro into reaper, is there any way to have them match up midi notes without having to manually move every track to their appropriate spot? For example, a way to remap all of the guitar pro tracks to the correct mydrumset tracks at once? It can get a bit tedious when you have 8 or 9 drum tracks that you have to move to their appropriate spots.
And if not, is there any easier way of making midis to import into reaper? I don't have access to a midi keyboard, unfortunately.
Musician's Friend has it for $100 more. Sounds like a steal to me!
As for low volumes on tube amps: you can get a well-distorted tone at low volumes, but it's not going to sound nearly as good as when it's cranked (I run my 50 watter literally a hair louder than zero in my bedroom). If you want a nice tone at all volumes, I would go for a small SS or a blackheart.
Even in the advanced search, there is no option to search for all of the terms specified. For example, today I wanted to hear about some opinions of SG pickups. In the search, I typed
SG pickups "Search Titles Only" GG&A
But what I got were all the results of the word "pickups". It wasn't even sorted by relevance (as in, the SG posts weren't first but scattered across the 17+ pages of pickups posts). The following terms gave the same results:
+SG pickups "SG pickups"
Which led me to believe that the search doesn't have these capabilities either.
Another example: I wanted to know which preamp tubes were the V1, V2, etc in my amp, so I typed this into search:
preamp v1 v2 "Search Titles Only" GG&A
But all the results were of the word "preamp". I then tried the term
V1 Entire posts All forums
And the search came up with no matches, which leads me to believe the search isn't too comprehensive.
Just some little things I've found with the searchbar, and I thought I'd bring them up.
I don't have it on this computer actually, but it's something like File>Export>Wave? If that doesn't work, you could always set your computer to record its playback (my sound card has an option called "What U Hear" under recording) and then play your bass track through while recording on cubase or similar.
Unfortunately I don't know much about buying basses, but if you're going into the $400 I would strongly suggest buying used.
Y-cables are a bust for monitors, fyi. I've seen em, and I have yet to know why they still make them.
As people have said, you have an integrated video chipset. Better solution would be to buy a new graphics card, just a cheapo one, with dual-DVI ports. You'll have to look up the model of your HP, and see if it supports AGP/PCI/PCIe, and buy the same type of video card. Since you have a slimline (tisk tisk) you'll have to live with the lid to your tower half pryed open all day, or you will have to find a low-profile card. Installing will be as easy as opening the case, inserting the vid card, tightening a screw, and downloading drivers.
The easier, but not as futureproof solution, is to buy one of those $50 boxes that go into your USB and act as a makeshift graphics card, allowing you to run the second monitor.
I've had a friend that had to go through the same process. Apparently, Logitech is kickass on their replacement services.
The reasoning is simple: they honestly don't care whether or not your product is broken as long as you own it and paid for it. By destroying your product and taking a picture of it, you're taking a unique picture that confirms your ownership and guarantees that you will only have 1 mouse. Otherwise, any old person could come along and ask for a replacement from a serial number of a friend's mouse or something.
That's how they lure in the Nigerian prince scammers: take a picture of yourself with a loaf of bread and a fish, so I know you're real.
Why don't they just make you ship it back? Cuz shipping is a biatch. Logitech ftw.
You guys are entitled to your opinion, but I own one and tried using it for 2-3 weeks with no avail. Honestly, it didn't do anything for me.
I can understand someone starting out in guitar or other stringed instruments using the light one to increase finger strength, but I've only been playing for not even a year and I have more than ample strength to depress the medium tension (red) for quite some time.
They're slightly more comfortable than the generic ones that everyone I know seems to have in their room.
That said, I never use it and don't think I ever will. You'd be better off fingering fast licks on a fretboard to increase finger dexterity and all that jazz. And don't get those practice fretboards either; also gimmicks.
If you REALLY have to buy one, get the highest tension you can. I can easily depress the medium tension for a solid minute, and I'm a ridiculously puny 14 year old.