I found it helps. The last year I've been abroad away from all my gear. I bought a 15 euro acoustic off eBay and it played terribly. However, I persisted as it was my only musical outlet during my time there. I feel like it cleaned my playing up a lot as well as making me focus on areas of guitar playing and music that I might not have otherwise. Since lead lines were especially difficult, I spend a lot of time looking at genres that involve a lot of rhythm work, chordal work and textures such as funk. So, I like to think it was a positive experience. However, I'm not sure how much difference you'll notice over a week. If nothing else, it'll feel great to go back to your favourite electric!
So you're saying if I played a regular G Major Chord up higher on the fret board , it would sound the same, just in a higher key?
Depends what you mean by a regular G major. As a barre chord, yes. As an open string version no. If you moved an open G major higher up the fretboard, you need to bring the open strings up with it. This creates a pretty difficult shape to play - this is when a capo comes in handy. So if you moved it up 2 frets to make it an A major...
e 5 b 3 g 3 d 3 a 4 e 5
The capo could be placed in 3rd fret to make this playable. Does that makes sense?
I have been playing a few weeks. I was just taught that the only way to play chords higher on the fret board is only if you use a capo...
Who ever told you that has mislead you. You can play chords anywhere on the fretboard. A chord is simply a group of 2 or more notes played at the same time. A capo just helps you play certain chord shapes higher up the fretboard more easily.
I don't know why everyone's getting quite so wound up about this guy.
Sure, It's a different way of learning to most people, but it can be done this way. By collecting many examples of questions and answers, you can look for patterns and learn quite effectively this way. Everyone works differently, maybe this is what works best for him. Also, just because he almost never replies after starting the thread, it doesn't mean he's not paying attention.
If you have the knowledge and want to help him with his questions, then great. If you have some advice on what you think are more beneficial learning methods, then at least do it with some tact.
Given that he didn't say anyone specifically doesn't have a life, and he's just some random guy on the internet, I can't help but feel everyone rushing to prove they have a life is just a wee bit insecure...
I can't stand 9's on my Strat. Likewise, it feels 'loose' and I over bend notes and whatnot. 10s were a huge improvement. A lot of Les Paul models have a 24.75" scale length. It's not quite 24", but it's closer to it than it is to 25.5". This might be a good option, as there are a lot of lefty Les Paul models. At least there were when I last looked into a new guitar.
Man, £60. That's a steal! Whatever the model, that's a great price. Flight cases aren't cheap either. Also, it looks like it's been beautifully cared for. The fretboard looks beautiful. I agree, It looks like the GSR180.
I reckon you should get it. If you hate it, I expect you could make a small profit on it anyway.
Often the model number is printed on the back of the headstock on Ibanez guitars. I also did a guitar search. Plenty of white SDGR basses with black hardware come up, but they all have 2 controls. If it's any use, they're going for about £250ish new.
Just ask the guy to look on the back of the headstock
Alice in Chains - Over Now, is the only one that springs to mind for me. Ask google, I guess.
"Probably one of the most familiar examples of Open E tuning is the beginning guitar part on the song "Jumpin' Jack Flash" by The Rolling Stones. This tuning is also used in Guns N' Roses' "It's So Easy," The Black Crowes' "She Talks to Angels", Glen Hansard's "Say It To Me Now", Joe Walsh's "Rocky Mountain Way", Billy F. Gibbons in "Just Got Paid", and many others."
As far as I'm aware, if it fits in the routed hole, you can use it.
However, P90s are a funny one. Although they're a humbucker, the orignal ones are longer and narrower than a regular humbucker. There are plenty of P90 copies which are a regular humbucker size. If you're lucky enough to have one of those, it should be a simple swap over. If however, you have proper P90s (which I assume you do if it's a Gibson) then you might be somewhat limited to pickup choices.
I hope that helps a little
EDIT: I wrote they're a humbucker - sorry that isn't true. The rest of it should be though.
1. There's bound to be one selling online. Try second hand also, since it's hardly worth buying a brand new guitar to change everything anyway. However, it might be quicker/cheaper/more fun to re-paint an exisiting Squire of a different colour, rather than having to find your colour somewhere. It's a popular colour though, so I don't think it would be too hard to find one.
2. I'm not sure if a straight bridge swap would work. The routing for the bridge is usually slightly off-centre to allow room for the trem arm. So, you might have to add this in on the other side, but I don't know. It'd be best to search the web for people who have already done it. My guess is that you'd have to route the body a little more and you'd end up with a small gap where the right-handed trem arm used to be.
3. It's a very limited pick-up arrangement - perfect for blues, hence why SRV has chose it. However, I don't think it would sound so great for the hard rock you mentioned as it'll always have that rounded smoothness of a neck pickup. It definitely won't be a versatile guitar.
A couple of other things to note. You have a pickup selector in the image, but it's not necessary as you only have one pickup. Maybe that was an accident. Also, (this is personal taste and critique coming in here, so feel free to ignore it) are you sure you want that image? Think of it like a tattoo. The design makes me think of a naive teenager rather than an awesome rock guitar. I'd be worried that you'll look back at it in some years and not like it. I doubt it will be cheap to buy a SRV Yellow replica pickguard, so make sure you definitely want that image and get it done well.
On the other hand - go for it and have loads of fun!
I tried to give a couple. In short, it didn't work out very well. I was tutoring a guy, but then I had to move away and he requested we try to continue via Skype. The problem with Skype is there are often connection problems. Even with no connection problems, it's impossible to play along with someone because there is a slight delay between the two of you. It can also be a little difficult to show what you're doing via webcam. Even with the best webcam going, it will never be as easy as actually seeing someone's hands in front of you.
It is possible, but it can be tedious. It's not my cup of tea.
The Ibanez RG is a much more delicate feeling guitar, hence the lighter strings.
I had 9's on my strat for a while, but it felt almost too easy and I was always over-bending notes. I switched to 10's and it feels a lot better to play. I've yet to try anything heavier, but 10's feel great right now.
keep all the strings my regular gauge, but swap out the bottom string for something thicker
I think that's an ideal solution. Take a look at some of the heavier gauge strings available - ones that are designed for A standard or something similar. This way you can get an idea of exactly what gauge string you need for the drop A.
The only problem you might have is finding a single string of that thickness in a guitar shop, so you may have to buy online. Alternatively, you may be able to find a single bass string of the correct gauge more easily and stick that on instead.
Also, don't forget to file down the nut a little for the heavier string.
you generally need to file the nut a bit not the saddle.
^ Exactly ^
If the string is snapping at the saddle, I'd be inclined to say that your filing is the culprit.
I'd imagine, after filing, the saddle is going to be pretty roughed up. A rough surface is bad news. You want the saddle to be super-smooth because every time you bend a string or tune the guitar there will be some amount of movement at this point. The movement may be slight but it'll be slowly rubbing away at the string.
So, the trick is, don't file down your bridge saddles.I'd recommend replacing bridge saddles and filing down the nut instead. If you're not in a position to do this, try and smooth out the filing work the best you can.
I think might be a little easier on this guitar because of the 'zero point system'. There's a little wheel on the back you can turn to adjust the spring tension, I think...
Okay, I did some quick reading around and it seems that you can do small changes with the tuners quite easily, but it won't be pitch perfect. They'll be in tune with themselves, but not to concert pitch or whatever.
So, if you want to switch between drastically different tunings or use it for recording/playing with other people. You might have a tedious job, like with a regular floyd rose.
I have used this sort of capo before, and they can be pretty difficult. Unlike a lot of capos, there is nothing to adjust how much pressure is being put on the strings. It only has one pressure, and that's HARD. You may have noticed that, if you press to heavily on a fret, the notes become sharp. I think this might be what is happening here.
Ideally, the capo should press down with just enough pressure to make sure the strings sound correctly. However, the capo has to work for all string tensions and there are a lot of different tunings and string gauges that people use. So I guess they've made it a bit stronger than most people need. Better too hard too soft and have buzzing strings, no?
It could be that your intonation is off too, but if you've never noticed this problem when playing higher up the fretboard without a capo, I would suspect your capo is just a bit heavy handed.
You could either buy a more adjustable capo or save some money and get used to re-tuning the strings whilst the capo is in place.
I went for a Dimarzio Super Distorion in my RG1570. I'm pretty pleased with it.
I tried several models of ibanez in my local, all RG models of very similar spec, just with with differing pickups. Seymour Duncans, DiMarzio, EMG etc. DiMarzio was definitely my fav out of the ones I played. I was after a more crisp and defined sound but without it being harsh sounding. Those V7/8 p-ups are so muddy.
The times when you feel impressive are the ones when other instruments are involved. A lot of bassists use percussive sounds and some chordal work so, in effect, it sounds like more than one person is playing or even a whole band.
These are always more impressive as it sounds so much more complex and just more like a song. A bass, by itself, playing bass lines meant for a band situation isn't that likely to be hugely impressive.
On bass I like to look at songs I already know and make my own arrangements on them where I try to play the main melody over the top of the chords to try and replicate the song as a whole.
the difference between a 4 and 5 string bass is quite noticeable because the neck is that much wider than what you're probably used to. I would recommend trying to play both version of the bass, if you haven't already, to just see if you like how it feels. If this isn't possible just try playing any 5 strings you can find.
As for the poor tone you're describing, it isn't because of the truss rod, it's because the string tension is much looser than what they're designed to be played at and are most likely flopping about a fair bit. This makes tuning quite unstable too. You can counteract this by using heavier gauge strings but I think you would have some difficulty in finding strings that give good playability in both standard and drop B.
A 5 string bass would eliminate the need for that but it's simply a case of asking yourself if you would really use it that often? If you think you would make plenty of use of the 5th string and you like how a 5 string plays then, by all means, go for it!
EMGs are active so they're very loud, I don't know what pickups you were using before but, the chances are, they're quieter than EMG's which could be causing the feedback. What size room are we talking about here?
Compensated saddles are to do with the guitar's intonation, a lot of acoustic guitars have them so you should be able to pick one up easily. However, Acoustic guitars' bridges are usually angled slightly too, not very much, about 5 degrees or something. If you were to re-string the guitar there's a good chance the higher up the fretboard you go, the more off-pitch the notes get. If you're going to be playing a lot of chordal work then this shouldn't really be a problem.