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No worries dude. Still available for sale.
I'll get back to you with a quote later today as I'm at work - but I'd imagine it'll be around £30+ for shipping due to its size and weight. Either way, keep me posted if you're still interested! Cheers!
Bump, she's still available.
Up for sale is my pride and joy, the Engl Fireball 60! I'm also throwing in the live-in flight case for it as well.

She has served me extremely well, played many gigs, toured around the UK and was used to record 2 albums. Don't let the 60watt rating fool you, this is an absolute beast on stage and cuts through just fine! Most professional venues will mic the cab anyways so chances are you're never pushing past 12 and yet you'll still gain an amazing saturated, articulate distorted sound. Perfect for death metal, djent, hardcore... anything extreme!!! The clean channel is incredible on this amp, very sparkly and harmonically rich.

There's a few tolex wounds, but nothing serious and the amp hasn't suffered any damaged from them. It's in full working order and sounds fantastic!

The flight case has very minor wear considering the miles it has traveled, just scuff marks on the corners and a few on the aluminium trim - no dents/cracks anywhere! Fits the Fireball like a glove and protects it extremely well! A must have if you tour, or just to safely move the amp around.

It's a live in case, so the front and pack panels remove to gain access to the front and rear of the amp, it also has room for the top of the amp to get airflow as not to overheat no matter how long you have it running for.

Specs:

Removable front and rear
7mm hexa board
Heavy duty Penn Elcom fittings
Foam lined in 20mm 50mm blocks

It's a fantastic case with many, many more years of service still left in it.

Amp:





Flight case:





Asking for £450
Up for grabs is my much loved (and well looked after) Schaller Hannes fixed bridge in gold finish.

In my opinion, it's by far one of the most amazing feeling, playing, and sounding fixed bridges I have ever used.
Zero finish tarnishing, well looked after, and the only wear is on the saddles where the strings sit, but very minimal!
Comes with everything you need to install it plus a transparent template.

It was carefully removed from my custom Stinnett which you can see here: http://www.stinnettguitars.com/Paul%20V.htm

Reason for sale is that I have now replaced it with the piezo version to give me the versatility of a Parker Fly.

Pictures here:

http://i.imgur.com/zYdwE.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/ildYa.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/36O5e.jpg

PM me if interested.
Used, but well looked after Schaller Hannes bridge for sale. Fantastic condition.

http://imgur.com/zYdwE

PM me if interested.
No longer selling, I've decided to keep her.
Up for sale and trade is my beautiful Stinnett custom guitar.
I've owned her for just over a year, kept in a smoke free studio environment and never gigged.














She's in near-immaculate condition bar a small ding on the edge of the guitar by the forearm carve on the side closest to the rear, it's roughly 1mm x 4mm pictured. Otherwise the guitar is in fantastic condition, zero fret wear, plays amazingly well, sounds phenomenal, and the neck is an absolute joy to play on.

My reason for selling is simply because my band split up and I no longer get to use this amazing instrument, it seems unfair to just leave it in its case.


Luthiers website: www.stinnettguitars.com


Here's the specs:

* 5-piece Wenge/Mahogany neck through.
* Ziricote fretboard.
* Claro Walnut headstock cap.
* LMII Ivoroid binding.
* Custom headstock shape. (Based it on a Parker)
* Magnetically held flamed Maple truss-rod cover.
* Dual truss-rod.
* Carbon fiber reinforcement rods in neck.
* Jackson USA Soloist neck profile.
* Dot inlays on the side.
* Sperzel locking tuners. (Gold and black)
* Graphtech nut.
* 27 hardened stainless steel frets. (Zero wear.)
* Huge cut away and rear carve to comfortable play all frets.
* Mahogany body wings.
* Claro Walnut cap.
* Mahogany electronic cavity cover.
* Tummy and forearm carves.
* Schaller Hannes bridge.
* Bareknuckle Pickups. (Nailbomb with golden slugs in the bridge, Trilogy in the neck.)
* 5-way super blade switch.
* Volume/tone pots.
* Schaller strap locks. (Black)
* Tru-oil finish.
* Comes with a hardcase (pictured)

For a cash sale I'm looking for £1,300obo
For a trade I'm looking at a Parker Fly Mojo in Natural, or Classic in trans/natural. (Though feel free to make an offer with any other Fly model/colour.

International buyers welcome.


Thanks for looking
£1,250 and still interested in trades for a Parker Fly, and potentially a Musicman JP6/JP7 w/ piezo pups.
For sale and trade.

Stinnett custom 27 fret guitar, near-immaculate condition. Loaded with Bareknuckle pickups, stainless steel frets, carbon reinforcement in the neck, Schaller Hannes bridge, Sperzel locking tuners, 5 piece Wenge and Mahogany neck-through, and LMII ivoroid binding.

https://www.ultimate-guitar.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1551534

£1,250 obo (price reduced.)
For trades I'm looking for Parker Fly guitars.

My reason for selling is simply because my band split up and I no longer get to use this amazing instrument, it seems unfair to just leave it in its case.

Located in London.
I've owned this guitar a little over a year, immaculate condition, unfortunately (for me) it hasn't been gigged yet.

I'm looking to trade for a Parker Fly Deluxe or Mojo. (Not interested in Maxx Flys or Niteflys.)

For price, I'm looking for £1,500 obo.

Pictures:

Professional pictures by Will Stinnett can be found here:
http://www.stinnettguitars.com/Paul%20V.htm

Some of my pictures:
Front: http://i.imgur.com/0mNgd.jpg
Rear: http://i.imgur.com/l750m.jpg
Heel/cutaway: http://i.imgur.com/GR7os.jpg
Body closeup: http://i.imgur.com/zxsAm.jpg
Headstock closeup: http://i.imgur.com/q1BRA.jpg
Magnetic trussrod cover: http://i.imgur.com/7rUYr.jpg
Serial number: http://imgur.com/iBVrm

Here's the specs:

* 5-piece Wenge/Mahogany neck through.
* Ziricote fretboard.
* Walnut headstock cap.
* Ivoroid binding.
* Custom headstock shape. (Based it on a Parker)
* Magnetically held flamed Maple truss-rod cover.
* Dual truss-rod.
* Carbon fiber reinforcement rods in neck.
* Jackson USA Soloist neck profile.
* Dot inlays on the side.
* Sperzel locking tuners. (Gold and black)
* Graphtech nut.
* 27 stainless steel frets.
* Huge cut away and rear carve to comfortable play ALL frets.
* Mahogany body wings.
* Figured Walnut cap.
* Mahogany electronic cavity cover.
* Tummy and forearm carves.
* Schaller Hannes bridge.
* Bareknuckle Pickups. (Nailbomb in the bridge, Trilogy in the neck.)
* 5-way super blade switch.
* Volume/tone pots.
* Schaller strap locks. (Black)
* Tru-oil finish.

Plays fantastically well, and sounds out of this world! I spent a long time designing these specs as I wanted the best of both worlds (shimmering cleans, and a well defined articulate distorted sound.)

Will Stinnett playing it: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ez58s4X-SiQ

Me faffing about: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ImqsfhLco4

Contact me here, on the band facebook page below, or on: 07760960771
Cheers
Paul
Hey guys

We're currently looking for a new bassist due to our current one not being able to continue with us...

check out our music here: www.myspace.com/diathesis

18+ (no upper age limit)
Own equipment - 5 strings would be ideal
Experience prefered, but not essential
Looking for someone who can add another layer to our music (not just following the guitars) finger style would be greatly appreciated!


The new music we're working on is a lot more interesting, heavier, faster, and a bit more technical.

If you're interested, shoot me a message on the band space, or leave a comment here.


Cheers
Paul
Thanks Skeet, I'll keep that in mind!

Thanks everyone, appreciate the kind words! Salgala2000, yeah the headstock might be easily breakable, just have to be careful with it, just like with any guitar I guess.
Cheers guys, yeah had a blast that night (no pun intended!)


I'm not entirely decided on the hardware colour right now, but I am leaning towards gold.
When the cash flow comes back into the green, I'll change pretty much all hardware on the guitar.

Bareknuckle Painkiller in the bridge (not sure what to put in the neck yet.)
Schaller/Sperzel locking tuners.
Schaller strap locks.
Tonepros locking TOM with Graphtech saddles, maybe piezo equiped.
Graphtech nut

Should be pretty snazzy once it's done.
Completed!


It's a little dirty right now (beer, sweat, fingerprints) because of friday nights gig, but it still looks pretty damn cool!






A couple from friday:





I think I'll go with black hardware instead (undecided right now,) but everyone seems against gold for some reason - I always liked gold with natural finishes, think it looks quite suave.

Thoughts?
Unfortunately I don't have the time, got a gig tomorrow, then one every month until the new year... tho I will do that as soon as I get the spare time!
Thanks Shinozoku, really appreciate it!


Small update:

Final coat, bolted neck on (will eventually get around to making all hardware gold, and new pickups).



Shielded the electronics cavity.



As soon as the paint dries, I'll move on to soldering, then I can finally start playing it again!!!
Quote by Sleaze Disease
Am I the only one that really likes that "mismatched" upper horn?
I think it gives it a little contrast and personality.


My thoughts exactly!
Thanks guys, I will when I get a slot of free time, also stain the back of the neck with a Walnut stain, then oil it, leaving the headstock shiney and the back of the neck satin.
That'd look rather interesting, but I think I'll pass up on that idea.
Unfortunately I couldn't avoid the lighter colour on the upper horn, the veneer had a bunch of score marks and this positioning was the only choice I had - by the time I noticed the score marks, it was far too late to bother with a refund. Either way, I like the colour difference, adds a unique character in my opinion.

Cool name btw.
From this:



To this:



Almost finished, going to add new hardware and eventually upgrade the pickups to Bareknuckles.
Be cool if I did, but I doubt it they're gone down in price since they first came out, plus the P series isn't in production anymore... thanks though

Yeah I prefer natural finishes over solid colours, unfortunately it was only available in 3 colours at the time, blue, grey and metalic black.
Fourth coat.


It's probably not going to be a perfect finish, but I'm happy with it atleast, came out better than I had hoped. Fun process, learnt a lot of skills that will come in handy in the real world.
Second layer:




Third layer:




I used my fingers for the third application, just to see the difference, I think I'll be using that method from now on as it wastes less oil, and it's so much more easier.
If anyone owns the Z4 footswitch, could you take a close up picture of the guts? Also what jack they use.

Cheers
@ MonkeyLink07 The footswitch will change channels, clean to dirty.

The footswitch plugs into the back of the amp using a jack, I've tried looking for wiring diagrams but haven't managed to find any, and I've never used the switch myself so I have no idea what jack is used.
Hi, got a few questions I hope you could help me out with.

I'm looking to make an Engl Z4 footswitch. Could you guys help me make a wiring diagram? I'd really appreciate any/all help you can give me.

All I have to go on is this gut shot I found: http://i.imgur.com/PF9Cj.jpg


I'm guessing it will be wired to a stereo jack?
I think I have the right switch: http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=27
Will standard 5mm LED's do the trick?

I'll be really grateful If anyone could draw up a simple wiring diagram for me.


Thanks
Amazing! Great work!


So how's it sound acoustically? And how does the bridge feel? Has it added/taken away much to the overal sound? I know there's no electronics, but it'd be interesting to see what you can notice acoustically, and if the bridge is as good as it's claimed to be.

Anyways, beautiful instrument!
Yeah, I did have a booklet/tutorial thing come with the oil and it showed using fingers... you're right the cloth does use more oil compared to finger (gave it a go earlier today on spare wood).

I think I'll stick with the cloth method for now anyways, mainly because I sweat a lot during the summer, so it'd be more like a sweat finish, compared to Tru-Oil
Nice one! If you do go with the chemical stripper, just be real careful not to get it on any plastic binding/inlays...
The good thing is that it just cuts down on all the sanding work, and makes a refinishing project that much easier.


Small update:

Applied the first layer of oil: