Quote by mmolteratx
The signal coming out of the speaker output is way too strong for the Spider Valve's input. Basically what an amp does is multiply the signal it gets. If that signal is already what it would normally be at the output, it'll be huge once it goes through again. This will cause it to get way too hot and shit gets ****ed up.

Yes; I knew this was happening from the moment I did it. That's what I'm asking about. I was hoping with this thread to get more specific what "shit" exactly "gets ****ed up," but if you know for a fact that it'll cause irreparable damage to the Spider then I won't do it, obviously.

And obviously the problem with the DR's output transformer is something I hadn't thought about, so that's another reason. I'm glad I asked about that because I hadn't seen it as a problem.
Ok, I understand what you're getting at. I won't do it. But why didn't my amps already explode or whatever? I did it for about 15 minutes and both of them are still definitely just fine.

What's exactly is the difference in terms of whether the impedance values match up as between A. sending the speaker output from the Deluxe Reverb directly into the Spider Valve speaker, as intended, or B. sending it through 2 12AX7's, 2 5881's and a power transformer first and then into the speaker?
Why exactly am I frying the Spider by overdriving its power amp? I'm sorry if this becomes a simple electronics lesson, I'm just curious.

And why would the DR be affected? Why does it care what happens to the signal after it leaves through the external speaker output?
So I've recently purchased a Fender Deluxe Reverb. I also have a Spider Valve 112 hanging around and while playing around last night, I found that I can make a really cool distortion by connecting the external speaker output from the Deluxe Reverb to the direct power amp input of the Spider Valve, i.e. putting a line level much higher than normal into the power amp and overdriving it. This creates a really awesome thick distortion sound while simultaneously the sound of the Deluxe Reverb itself isn't affected.

My question is: Will the Spider Valve suffer irreparable damage if I crank the Deluxe Reverb past 4 or 5 and send its output straight into the 30 watt power amp of the Spider Valve? How far can I take this setup without risking damage to the power amp by overdriving it too much?

The signal path of the Spider Valve 112 can be found here if it offers more information:


edited for clarification.
Easy question, hopefully.

I'm about to have two amps. I need a pedal/device connected to both amps and my guitar that will allow me to cycle between either amp, i.e. I hit it and instead of going into the first amp it now goes into the second.

Where can I find something like this?
I think he means in relation to 7th fret or 5th fret harmonics. He's not talking about capos.

The answer to that is a bit complex.

When you play a 12th fret harmonic, you're muting all the overtones whose wave nodes are not at the point equidistant to the nut and the bridge. You leave all the overtones whose nodes are at that point. The most prominent (because it's the largest) of those overtones is the one in the middle in this picture that divides the original wave into two halves:

So, as a result, that wave is what you hear mainly. Also present is the overtone that divides the original wave into fourths, eighths, sixteenths, etc. But those are hardly heard, for the reasons following.

The 7th fret harmonic is the one that divides the wave into thirds. Obviously, these waves are smaller than the 12th fret harmonic ones. And with a smaller wave comes a smaller node. A smaller node is more difficult for your finger to hit precisely. So basically a 7th fret or 5th fret harmonic is muted more by your finger when you play it because your finger interferes with the wave more when it has a smaller diameter.

Get it?
Post a picture of the whole thing. Can't tell what it looks like when you post a whole bunch zoomed in.
Quote by randomhero93
actually, with the 6th string dropped to D, it sounds a little bassier, so power chords sound heavier... just how i like them... lol

Um. No. Only D and Eb will sound "heavier." Every other power chord that you play can be accessed in Standard, so there's really no difference.
I'm putting in a single coil in a humbucker hole and trying to find a way to arrange it so the pickup doesn't look retarded.

Is there such thing as a mounting ring for a single coil that will fit in a humbucker-sized body cavity?

Is there any chance that a Gibson neck (or any neck with a rosewood fretboard and symmetrical headstock really) will fit on my Squier '51?

I'm beginning to mod it, and my first order of business is to find a neck that has a different shape, doesn't look Fenderesque, and doesn't feel like it wants to put shards of wood in my hands.

Yeah. I got it figured out.

Sounds great!
Just kidding; I solved the problem looking at Lace's website.

Theoretically, what would the red sound like in the neck?

Thanks for you guys' help, by the way.
I'm going to backtrack a little bit here.

I've got a blue and white one too (these are an unused set of Lace Sensors I found in my attic).

Which would be the best in the neck?
Can I replace just the neck pickup in my MIM strat with a red lace sensor, leaving the others, and everything will work ok?

What's the purpose of leaving it on standby before you turn it off?
Quote by JackWhite333
I mean like an actual slide, that you can buy at a guitar store for the least amount of money!!!!! Not a makeshift one....

What's the difference?

Leo Kottke made glass slides throughout his entire career out of a certain wine bottle.
Glass gives clean sound. Metal is more rough.

Depends on what you're after.

I prefer glass.
It's only natural. Even a musician with a hugely inflated ego, when left to his own devices, is going to dwell on flaws in himself (with maybe one or two exceptions).

I don't think it means you're overly self-critical. I think it's very, very hard to be overly self-critical.
Go for the Mexican Strat. Just because they are made in Mexico and they aren't as shiny DOES NOT mean a $1000 increase in price is worth it for the American one. I have one and I can attest to this.

If you want versatility, that really is the way to go over an Epiphone Les Paul.
Quote by ThePechanator

Wow, that's a good guitar for the cost. Maple fretboard and an actual alder body. I might buy one.
...Which hand and arm?

Jonny Greenwood had to wear a brace on his right arm because of his aggressive guitar-playing technique, and it's a fairly common thing. Don't know what doctor you went to.
Speaking from experience, Line 6 does make great amps. They get a bad rap, deservedly, from their Spider III's, but that's no reason to immediately discount all their products. I have a Line 6 Spider Valve 112 and can honestly say it really is a great amp.
I had your problem. I unstrung the guitar and left it that way for about 24 hours, and then put new strings on and the problem was fixed.

Edit: Before I did that, I tried a myriad of other solutions like replacing the bridge screw with a long nail and putting a block of wood in front of the bridge. I rested the saddle on the block of wood with the long nail through it and set up some apparatus set up to keep anything from moving around and it worked, but I got frustrated so I tried the above.
Fender Telecaster.
Alright. Thanks alot for your help!
If I get an Ashdown head, what should I get for a cabinet?
Well, I'm one guitar, I play a 40 watt tube but it's louder than we ever are. Our other plays a solid state but I'm not sure of the wattage. We're not too loud but we're definitely the primary instruments.

Our drummer doesn't play too hard. He's a mellow guy.

We play basically indie rock but it leans more on the pop side of things sometimes. It's not very 'loud' music but we put on a modestly loud show.
Sorry, cross posted from Guitar gear forum.

I need to get information on bass amps for my retard bassist who plays bass just because we needed him to (he has no prior experience). He now needs an amp since our semi-permanent loan guy moved away.

Does tube or solid state matter? Good brands? He will be using this for gigging and at practice.

I would aim around $700 or below. Nothing too expensive unless quality interferes with the price range.

Quote by (Metal)lica
I think solid state is better for bass

Because the sound won't change at high volumes I assume?
I need to get information on bass amps for my retard bassist who plays bass just because we needed him to (he has no prior experience). He now needs an amp since our semi-permanent loan guy moved away.

Does tube or solid state matter? Good brands? He will be using this for gigging and at practice.

I would aim around $700 or below. Nothing too expensive unless quality interferes with the price range.

Quote by IKnowItsWrong
Come see what oh almighty google brought me.



What is the point of the cutaway going under the strings? You wouldn't put your hands there. It would be just as functional with the cutaway ending at the 22nd fret (and less fragile).
So I just purchased a brand new Fender strat (standard) and I love everything about it.

The open b string however, buzzes. Pretty badly.

How might I go about fixing this? I've tried raising the string at the bridge but that did not help (by the time it would stop buzzing it would be unplayable).
Quote by Tomo J O
Squier 51 - Mod'ing Dream..

I bought one of these a year ago that I learned on and still play.

Why is it sought after? It doesn't seem that remarkable. Looking back, it was a pretty good price for its quality though.

Touché. Didn't think you guys would catch on that quickly.

I was kind of curious as to how ultimate-guitar would respond to music like this, and I had that cover, so I posted it. I didn't mean to steal it or anything.

It's by no means straight up rock. Don't expect what you're probably expecting.

And the recording/mix isn't final and there are no words. So don't judge it there.