Did a bit of cross-drilling through the body to connect the control cavities:

And covered said cavities up:

Pressed, dressed and leveled the frets:

Then finally lacquered, wired and strung the old girl. The result:

This has been a pretty drawn-out build, and to be honest it could well be my last.
I think it's time to move on to a more ambitious project.. watch this space
Hey peeps, it's been a while but there's some definite progress made on this build.

Headstock inlay marked:

And cut:

Then the headstock got the same treatment:

Got the inlay set:

Then the holes drilled and tuners trial-fitted:

So it's been quite some time since I last updated y'all... it's getting cold, and I'm getting lazy

Anyways, I got an off-the-shelf bevel from the local hardware store and positioned it like so:

First pass shaping the neck with rasp and spokeshave:

A little more shapely:

Got the old cordless routers out to transition the headstock:

Definitely a little more purrty than before:

And I just couldn't resist a quick trial-fit. I need to take the body in to work to drill the bridge-post holes, as my drill only has a 10mm chuck, but it shouldn't be long before I'm on to the boring cosmetic stuff, like finish sanding:

There are a couple of options, but none of them cheap unfortunately. I put a Bigsby tremolo on my cheap Epi SG, using the vibramate adapter plate so I didn't need to drill any extra holes in the body - just swap out the stop tailpiece for the bigsby.

The other option (though I haven't tried this one) is the Stetsbar:

Again, this just drops on in-place of the standard tailpiece and (to my knowledge) requires no additional holes.

Hope this helps
Yeah I guess... you can't pass the blame on to anyone else though
The maple I got from Stew Mac, as I had a few other parts to get at the same time. There are quite a few local lumber yards that can source it though - I've dealt with Halswell Timber in Christchurch (who were great, btw) but I'm sure there are more in the North Island.


Fret inlays glued and clamped:

Neck and headstock routed to shape:

Then a routing template made up for the neck pocket with 2 degree angle:

Pocket routed:

And test fitted:

Another benefit of the bolt-on neck: if the string action is a little off (as it was in my last LP build), you can always tweak the neck angle with the same template and a couple of shims.
sytharnia, that sucks about the neck man - was it set or bolt-on?

I got a bit more done this week. The neck cut and glued:

Truss rod slot routed:

Then the headstock taken down about 5mm to leave around 15mm overall:

I cut a 3mm strip of Rimu from the body scraps and laid out some fret markers:

Cut and filed 'em:

Then scored them on the fretboard:

I got about halfway through routing the pockets out when I ran out of light - should be able to get a bit more done over the long weekend though, so stay tuned
Time to go another round, this time for my sister's 21st. The plan is a flat-top Les Paul with solid Rimu body and maple neck, wired up like a '72 deluxe tele to give it a little more twang than your typical LP.

The Rimu I'm using for this build is no ordinary timber. I'm sure many of you have heard about the earthquake in Christchurch a few years ago - it was kind of a big deal to those of us in the city at the time. Anyways, one of the knock-on effects of the quake was the sudden availability of recycled timber, particularly Rimu 4x2: they were pulling the stuff out of the rubble by the truckload. I managed to get my hands on a couple of lengths for the price of a box of beer, and set it aside for a future build: with my sister now living in Christchurch, it seems like the ideal time to start making sawdust!

The body rough-cut with the handsaw:

And the outline tidied up with the router:

Very cool. If you're looking for feedback, I would stretch the top horn out a little, a la Jaguar. If you're not, just tell me to go mind my own damn business

The PRS-style cutaways look great though, as does the headstock.
You will spend the rest of your days fighting women off with a stick

I put a B5 on my SG and I love it - it's not the most versatile tremolo, but it's just so purrty!
Oh I see, so you're stacking the layers instead of a scarf joint. Probably not the easiest method, but I imagine it'll still look good once it's done. That body's looking good though dude.
I do love me some Bigsby action Don't envy the soldering work ahead of you though.

Mockup looks great, it'll be good to see how the real thing comes out.
Very, very nice. Can we expect to see more in future?
CNC machines are all good, not sure how it'll help with this build though - you've got most of the machining done already. As for a bridge, I'd go with a trapeze tailpiece and archtop bridge, for something different.
That is absolutely incredible man, love the inlay on the back! Looking forward to the video.
I don't think it's got anything to do with the wiring of your guitar mate. You get feedback when your guitar strings are resonated by the sound of your amp, which generates a signal through the pickups, which is amplified (surprisingly) by the amp, which resonates the strings... and so on.

I'd guess that you lean forward to tweak your amp, which puts the guitar closer to the speaker and increases the effect. Otherwise, if your amp is sitting on the floor, you could be putting the guitar more directly in the line of sound. If you want to get rid of it, I'd recommend turning down the gain / volume on the amp, or kill the volume on the guitar before you lean in.
I've put one up in the build thread, but I'll leave the photo here as-is. The colour comes up much better in the stringless photo.
That could be arranged Heilz, possibly in the next week or two. By demand, a pic with strings:

So the competition is over, now it's time to see who came out on top! This vote is for the best overall build in the unlimited category.

bghk6581's Lefty LP

bghk6581's Moderne

Lightbluemk2's Puzzlecaster

rapfohl09's Mahogany Superstrat

So vote away!
So the competition is over, now it's time to see who came out on top! This vote is for the best overall build for under 100GBP.

Given that only two people finished their guitars in time I don't think there is a need for all the other categories we had planned.

whoomit's Pine Tele - £77.35

Boysie8's Jaguar - £94.15

So vote away!
Jesus, and I thought my wiring was complicated! Very nice stuff man, I like the covered string ferrules on the back (though I imagine it might get a bit old after a couple of string changes). Pretty jealous that you're still in Christchurch - how're things holding together down South?
I would grind out part of the hinge barrel on the lid, as per drawing below. That way it'll stay on when the lid's closed but can be pulled away once it's open.

Agreed (somewhat grudgingly )
Cheers man, always been in love with British Racing Green, seemed pretty fitting for a Jaguar.

Some more good weather in Taupo this week:

So naturally I locked myself inside and got some wiring done. The prewiring (it got way more complicated once the pickups were added):

And, finally, the completed article:

Having some slight delays on the strings, so I may not be able to plug the thing in until Monday
Glad to see there's still some life here - looks like a pretty good finish too. On the home straight now!
That is really, really cool man. Nice work!
Quote by W4RP1G
Wow, great idea on the fret wire bender!

Sucks about the masking tape. Did blue tape do that?

Green - perhaps that was the issue? Either way, I've managed to cover it alright. As long as I play the guitar in the dark, you'll never know

da_: No worries man, happy to help.
I just line the cans up like so, then pull the fretwire through:

Start off fairly shallow, then move the middle can in until you get the radius you're after. You just have to make sure the fret tang stays aligned by hand. And thanks whoomit
Sunny again today, so more progress. Got the fretwire radiused using my high-tech fret roller. I find Watties spaghetti works the best, however at a pinch baked beans could also work:

Frets filed flush and the edges chamfered:

And the neck sprayed:

And just when everything seemed to be going well, I pulled some masking tape off the body:

Time doesn't really allow for a complete strip and repaint unfortunately, so I'll just have to do the best I can to patch it up.
Drilled the side fret markers:

Filled with black-stained filler:

And just couldn't resist a quick mock-up assembly:

That's just the first light coat - there's a bit of overlap between passes, which leaves dark stripes. They've been covered now by the second coat, so should come out nice and purrty with a clear coat.
First pass with the colour this weekend, I think it'll look good once it's got some white hardware on it:

I've got a couple of imperfections to sand smooth, then one more coat should do it.
Looking tidy, Mr. Jillard. Quite a different design with the cutaway, but I like it.
We can let that one slide I think - there are enough people dropping out already, we can't lose you too
Not much to report this week unfortunately - it's only in the last day or two we've had any decent weather, a factor which is pretty important when you're working out on the deck
Anyways, got some finishing work done on the body. Filler-primer:

And primer:

I've had a bit of a change of heart regarding the colour - I was initially thinking Candy Apple Red, but then it would just look like any other Fender. So, what better colour for a Jaguar than British Racing Green? A quick test piece, to make sure all the layers are going to play nice together:

I'll be away for the week with work, but hopefully next weekend I'll be able to get a few coats of the green on the body, and finish off the neck.
Stunning man, I can see a job at Riva in your future
Come on dude, are you that desperate for an ego boost? Definitely looks like your best one to date, but you don't need to bump the thread just because no-one is telling you so.
That's not a bad idea, the trick is installing it. You could just glue a square bit of reinforcing timber to the underside, then screw the bridge down into it - mounting the screws under the saddle so they're invisible once assembled.